Load data for 10mm

[Old Rooster]

why is there a glock in the s&w holster

I thought the same thing!They say in description thats it's for a 2.0 with a 4.6 barrel but show a Glock!
Somebody's got to take another photo.
I'm still looking as I haven't gotten the sight yet.I prefer leather but all the leather ones like Galco are super expensive.
I'll keep looking around.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

Just ordered a Holosun 407c Red Dot Reflex sight and Adapter Plate for my S&W 10mm.
Never owned a red dot on a pistol so it will be new to me but someone said once you use it you will wonder why it took all these years to get your first one.Adapter and sight should be in by this time next week.

use good screws. I've heard some complaints that the screws that come with some of the sights and possibly even S&W stuff aren't up to the task of holding a sight onto these things

 

[doverpack12]

Montana Bullet Works 10mm hardcast 200 grain. They are HiTek coated and don't lead on me at all. I order the .402 for gen 3 block 20.
This bullet and Beartooth or Double Tap are the best hardcast bullet designs for 10mm at least as of a few years ago. With hardcast you don't want the round/tapered nose like Buffalo Bore uses, Underwood is a bit better but not on the same design level.
Wide flat meplat of the ideal diameter is how hardcast bullets work.

My MBW loads with Longshot shoot as good as I can hold at 1200 fps. I worked up side by side with 800X and shoot longshot better.
AA9 never gave me great accuracy and you are around 13 grains instead of 8.

I'm still working my way through some Double Tap WFNGC but have 500 MBW to load up when I get low.

I've seen a little lead over the years on the G20 barrel, nothing a few jacketed or plated bullets won't clear. If a streak remains I just clean it.

 

[wonderman4]

I don't know if anyone has reported it or not, but Sage's Outdoors make 40/10 mm gas checks

Gas Checks / Sage's Outdoors - Page 2

Sellers of aluminum and copper gas checks plus various reloading gear.

www.sagesoutdoors.com

 

[Old Rooster]

Montana Bullet Works 10mm hardcast 200 grain. They are HiTek coated and don't lead on me at all. I order the .402 for gen 3 block 20.
This bullet and Beartooth or Double Tap are the best hardcast bullet designs for 10mm at least as of a few years ago. With hardcast you don't want the round/tapered nose like Buffalo Bore uses, Underwood is a bit better but not on the same design level.
Wide flat meplat of the ideal diameter is how hardcast bullets work.

My MBW loads with Longshot shoot as good as I can hold at 1200 fps. I worked up side by side with 800X and shoot longshot better.
AA9 never gave me great accuracy and you are around 13 grains instead of 8.

I'm still working my way through some Double Tap WFNGC but have 500 MBW to load up when I get low.

I've seen a little lead over the years on the G20 barrel, nothing a few jacketed or plated bullets won't clear. If a streak remains I just clean it.

Those are the bullets I want to try.
I have used their bullets in the past.They are close enough that on a day with good weather the wife and I will drive up there and pick them up instead of mailing..

 

[Old Rooster]

One more good point for MBW is that they have true Brinell hardness numbers.I have bought cast lead from other companies that said 22 Brinell hardness but with my cabin tree hardness tester it was only 15-17.Still no leading but I like what Montana Bullet Works does to ensure real world hardness numbers.I will still cast my own for some calibers and still may get a 40 cal mold one day but if I don't shoot as much as I do right now I'll just buy from Montana Bullet Works.Just my opinion.

 

[Old Rooster]

Here is a pic: https://www.montanabulletworks.com/product/10mm-noe-200gr-wfn-pb/

 

[STEEL SLINGER]

I hunt a lot with a 10mm Glock 40 with a 6" KKM barrel. My pet load, which I cast/lube and load myself is;

Cast lead 200gr. WFP @ 12BHN
12.3gr. Accurate No. 9
Starline Brass
Win. LP primer
1330'ish FPS

Longshot, VV N105, and Blue Dot are your powders of choice for heavies. Montana Bullet Works makes some very good bullets, but should you decide to cast your own, drop Tom at Accurate Molds an email and he will make you a fantastic mold. The bullet I finally settled on is the 40-200C and I cast this in a 30:1 alloy - 15lbs. COWW / 15lbs. soft lead + 1lb. pewter. I use this alloy for all my handgun loads and several rifle loads. . .don't get caught up in the high BHN hardness crowd, anything over 15 - 18 BHN is really not needed for anything you will ever do with a 10mm cartridge. Proper bullet fit and good lube and you will have an outstanding hunting round. Be careful though. . .this bullet casting stuff is EXTREMELY addicting!!! I have 19 molds and cast 7 different calibers for friends and myself, it's very rewarding.

 

[ATH]

I run Missouri Bullet coated bullets at full 10mm loads; if I wanted less than robust loads I own 40SWs. I first fired them from 1911s on a home range which allowed for bullet recovery. The coating is intact. I followed up firing these from Glocks and the coating is intact on fired bullets in the berm. I have not experienced leading issues with these coated bullets so I continue to shoot them while checking for leading....which I haven't observed.

 

[warboar21]

The factory pills I've run in 40 cal. have been .400" even. I run my cast art .401" in my Beretta 96 and I can shoot a couple hundred in a day with no leading. I do use Lyman black lube from a Lyman lube/sizer that has proven worthy to 1900 fps from one of my rifles.
I agree fully that measuring diameter on the barrel is important but slugging only shows where the TIGHTEST diameter is. With cast you really want the chamber end a touch looser than the muzzle. Reverse that to tight chamber end or god forbid tight cylinder throats on a revolver you will have a tough time shooting cast, no matter how perfect the pill is.

I was referring to pistols and not revolvers. With a revolver you would certainly base your measurement on the cylinder throats and not the barrel, unless for what ever reason the barrel is larger than the throats. Then you would just ream the cylinder out the slightly more than the barrel.

Several years ago Ruger was having issues with their 45Colt and some 44Mag with constriction in the barrel where it screwed into the frames. Some say it was from overtightening the barrel in the frame but I never heard if that was in fact the case. Either way Ruger would fix the guns if you sent them in or guys were using the Tubbs or other brand of abrasive to shoot out the constriction if it's not to bad.

 

[warboar21]

Back in the 80's I had a Glock 17 and a Glock 19 as well as a Glock 21 a few years later and cast for all 3.
There was a product that shotgunners used I think that I used to clean lead residue out of the Glock 17 before I knew how to properly size the cast bullet.Anyone know the name of that product?I used it on a Colt Python also with good results.Still a lot of scrubbing but it worked well.
Can't remember the name of the stuff.
warboar21 I will break down one of the Underwood cast bullets and measure the cast bullet as like you said it needs to be large enough to seal the bore.Been shooting cast lead for rifles and hand guns since the 70's so I'm pretty sure I can figure it out.

Birchwood Casey makes a lead removal cloth. I cut it in small squares and run the tight patch down the bore of my rifle or handgun. It takes a few times but it will get rid of the lead. The one thing you don't want to do though is use it on a blued gun as it will remove the finish. You can also use it to remove the rings around the front of the cylinder on a stainless steel revolver. Wil make it look like it's never been fired.
I have used a mixture of Hydrogen Peroxide and Distilled vinegar in equal parts to also remove lead. I do not recommend it to be used on guns with pitted barrels or ones where the finish is worn or has any sort of patina. It will strip the patina off in nothing flat. I plug the end of the barrel and fill it up and let it sit for about 5 mins or so. You will see the weak acid solution bubbling and once it stops you tip the barrel over and dump out the solution. It will dissolve the lead and leave the barrel clean. Rinse the barrel with soapy water and then dry it and oil it down. When I first bought my Ruger GP100 Match Champion the cylinder throats were undersized and would lead the barrel something fierce. I would clean out the lead with the acid solution once in awhile until I was able to ream the cylinders out. Same for my lever action in 45 Colt.

It's also a great household cleaner and I know it was used at my father's meat packing plant years ago.

FYI, leading isn't generally caused by friction or "skidding" or smearing. It's vaporization from the flame front behind the bullet. The vaporized lead condenses in the barrel as the temp drops. I believe this is also the case for copper, though much less due to the considerably higher vaporization temp.

As mentioned, a bullet that isn't tight enough in the bore allows flame to sneak past the base of the bullet, between the bullet and the barrel. This carries the vaporized lead into a cooler area, causing it to condense and deposit.

A properly sized bullet will produce a tighter seal, greatly reducing this. Its a similar principle that makes gas checks effective, though instead of sealing, they simply protect the base of the bullet from the flame reducing vaporized lead.

There are several reasons why a lead bullet will leave lead behind. Not having enough lube, The lube is to hard(very common on commercial cast bullets), Undersized bullets skidding down the rifling, Flame cutting, vaporizing, to soft of a lead compound for the velocity, etc etc. When looking down a barrel and you see the rifling filled with lead close to the chamber or forcing cone it will more than likely be caused by the skidding undersized bullet. Closer to the muzzle can mean there was not enough lube. Vaporizing is usually small deposits of lead left and not full streeks.

 

[best defense]

For a carry gun while out at the ranch hunting/working do y'all think it's worth reloading for a 10mm with 5 inch barrel (handgun) or just picking up some factory hard cast?

Honestly, it depends more on you and your preferences in things like accuracy and ease of shooting. If the factory loads work for you, and you don't shoot the little gun very much you will likely be happy with the factory loads.
If the factory loads do not satisfy your personal needs and preferences, then it is time to start looking for a load that works better for you.

 

[Old Rooster]

I've never shot a gas check bullets in a 10mm, but have had a lot of experience with gas checked bullets with the .38 special and .357 magnum. Gas checks will help with preventing the leading, but will not totally prevent it from happening. If the load is too hot the barrel will still lead up.

Every cast bullet forum will echo this point: as long as you don't exceed 1400 fps you "usually" will not need to worry about leading.
If I load my 357 or 44 mag close to 1400 fps I use a G C as some powders has a high flash point and can melt the rear of an unprotected lead bullet.

 

[chav0_12]

If the factory loads do not satisfy your personal needs and preferences, then it is time to start looking for a load that works better for you.

That's the reason I started handloading for my 10mm. Not that I thought the factory loads weren't good enough, they were fine, but the price of them I wasn't happy with. I can get a box of 300 bullets, the same ones Buffalo Bore uses, for $55. I can also get a box of 700 for only $68 of the bullet that HSM used in their bear load. With more than 1k primers sitting on my shelf it's pretty hard to justify paying $40/20 or even 50 rounds at the store.