Lapping Vortex 30mm precision match rings

Timbersquatch

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I'm in the process of building a new long distance rifle. I dont know whether or not to lap my new rings. As I said they are the Vortex 30mm precision match rings. I talked with Vortex and they said lapping is not necessary since the rings are made to such tight tolerances. I know the benefits of lapping, but I don't know to do it if it's not necessary. What are your guys' thoughts and do you have any experience with these rings?
 
Run those rings on two of my rifles. Like the Company and their products a great deal. I've never found the need to lap but others may have had different experiences.
 
Many people including Vortex will say not to lap but what happens if what the rings are mounted to isn't 100% true??

At minimum I would mount them, check the alignment with the true bar & maybe take a small amount of fine lapping compound on the lapping bar & give it a couple of turns.
If the rub marks are even through the rings then don't worry about doing it, if not then do it.

I have done this process to so called match machined rings & ended up having to lap them, I was quite surprised how far out 1 set was when mounted to a good quality rail.

If your mounting a $3000 scope into a $300 set of rings you would want to be sure everything is lined up %100 before torquing those screws down!
 
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Many people including Vortex will say not to lap but what happens if what the rings a re mounted to isn't 100% true??

At minimum I would mount them, check the alignment with the true bar & maybe take a small amount of fine lapping compound on the lapping bar & give it a couple of turns.
If the rub marks are even through the rings then don't worry about doing it, if not then do it.

I have done this process to so called match machined rings & ended up having to lap them, I was quite surprised how far out 1 set was when mounted to a good quality rail.

Yeah man I hear ya, at this point I think lapping is a must. That way I know for sure I did everything right the first time. Thanks for your input
 
The rings are cut true, your biggest issues going to be on your rail, mounted to your action if that isn't true that's going to twist your rings. I've had an issue with that on my Remington using a bolt on rail. That's why I switched to a machined rail on the action. Your options are going to be to lap the Rings or bed them with compound.
 
did you bed the rail ? if the rail is stress free the rings should be ok . here are instructions from Ken Farrell for rail bedding .
 

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did you bed the rail ? if the rail is stress free the rings should be ok . here are instructions from Ken Farrell for rail bedding .

I haven't bedded the rail, didnt know if that option was better than the other. Does it seem like most guys that go with a picatinny rail mount bed it instead of lapping? I could see how that would work since you are truing the rail to the action. Where as if the rings were tapped into the action instead than maybe lapping would only be necessary
 
Run those rings on two of my rifles. Like the Company and their products a great deal. I've never found the need to lap but others may have had different experiences.

See my problem is I don't know how far down the rabbit hole to go. I could bed my rail, lap my rings, do both, or not do any of it....
 
Bedding is pretty cheap and if you are confident you can do it not a bad route to go. If you are worried, a gun shop worth anything should be able to get it done at a reasonable price.
Personally I would try bedding the rail and putting the releasing agent on the action so the compound sticks to the rail. Don't forget to put releasing agent on the screws.
That's a paraphrase of the picture.
Then the rings are really easy to do anyway, couple good videos on line showing how.
You can confirm by using a scope alignment tool.
 
I haven't bedded the rail, didnt know if that option was better than the other. Does it seem like most guys that go with a picatinny rail mount bed it instead of lapping? I could see how that would work since you are truing the rail to the action. Where as if the rings were tapped into the action instead than maybe lapping would only be necessary


I use JB weld to bed my rails . I get the slow drying blend , it's supposed to be stronger . I use kiwi shoe polish on the action , as a release agent . I don't bump them apart at this time . if I ever need to remove the rail , it should bump off without to much trouble . it's surprising how far out some of them are . I lay a 6" machinist ruler on the rail to make sure the rail is flat before I start. so far I haven't had a bowed rail .
 
Many people including Vortex will say not to lap but what happens if what the rings a re mounted to isn't 100% true??

At minimum I would mount them, check the alignment with the true bar & maybe take a small amount of fine lapping compound on the lapping bar & give it a couple of turns.
If the rub marks are even through the rings then don't worry about doing it, if not then do it.

I have done this process to so called match machined rings & ended up having to lap them, I was quite surprised how far out 1 set was when mounted to a good quality rail.

If your mounting a $3000 scope into a $300 set of rings you would want to be sure everything is lined up %100 before torquing those screws down!
I agree 100% Just because the rings are good doesn't mean everything else is
 
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