Bedding base and Lapping Rings

[Hotwheelz07]

I have tried to search all over Google and have yet to find any specific post on bedding a base in addition to lapping the rings. I have a 20 MOA Nightforce 1 piece base for a Remington 700. I do not currently have it, but am assuming the worst that the base tightening will not be flush(one side at a time to check for gap).

1) Will bedding the base cancel out the 20 MOA correction that the base has built into it? If only bedding the side that is off.

2)If you bed the base of the rail will lapping the rings in addition be wise?

The way I look at it is that bedding the base, if even needed, will not bend the rail slightly and lapping will allow maximum contact with the scope. I could be wrong the way I am looking at it. They are both minor jobs and inexpensive, but have always had the philosophy to do it right the first time.

 

[J E Custom]

I have tried to search all over Google and have yet to find any specific post on bedding a base in addition to lapping the rings. I have a 20 MOA Nightforce 1 piece base for a Remington 700. I do not currently have it, but am assuming the worst that the base tightening will not be flush(one side at a time to check for gap).

1) Will bedding the base cancel out the 20 MOA correction that the base has built into it? If only bedding the side that is off.

2)If you bed the base of the rail will lapping the rings in addition be wise?

The way I look at it is that bedding the base, if even needed, will not bend the rail slightly and lapping will allow maximum contact with the scope. I could be wrong the way I am looking at it. They are both minor jobs and inexpensive, but have always had the philosophy to do it right the first time.

Bedding the base cant hurt, I recommend waxing the action,(Not the base) waxing the screws and applying the bedding to the base and screwing it down easy, to prevent twisting or torqueing the base. Take a Q Tip and wipe of all excess bedding compound. as the compound cures, loosen
one screw at a time and re tighten to make sure that the screws don't stick.

After the bedding has cured (24 to 48 hours) the base can be removed and it should release clean from the action and remain on the base.

I would not lap the rings unless you cant find good ones.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Hotwheelz07]

Thanks for the response. I will take your advice and not lap the rings, but will go ahead with the base bedding.

 

[bill123]

Bedding the base cant hurt, I recommend waxing the action,(Not the base) waxing the screws and applying the bedding to the base and screwing it down easy, to prevent twisting or torqueing the base. Take a Q Tip and wipe of all excess bedding compound. as the compound cures, loosen
one screw at a time and re tighten to make sure that the screws don't stick.

After the bedding has cured (24 to 48 hours) the base can be removed and it should release clean from the action and remain on the base.

I would not lap the rings unless you cant find good ones.

J E CUSTOM

After the bedding has cured and you remove the screws, do you clean the screws (and the holes in the receiver) to remove the wax? I'm concerned that the wax might help the screws to loosen over time.

 

[J E Custom]

After the bedding has cured and you remove the screws, do you clean the screws (and the holes in the receiver) to remove the wax? I'm concerned that the wax might help the screws to loosen over time.

Yes. one reason for cleaning the screws and the sight base holes is to prevent over tightening due to less friction. be sure and torque the base screws to the proper torque and they should not give you trouble.

If you are not sure what the torque should be do a search for= Torque Recommendations.

J E CUSTOM

 

[bill123]

If you are not sure what the torque should be do a search for= Torque Recommendations.

J E CUSTOM

Thanks. I'm using Badger Rings. They say 15-18 InLbs. Seems a bit light compared to others I have heard but I'm not about to question Badger.

 

[J E Custom]

Thanks. I'm using Badger Rings. They say 15-18 InLbs. Seems a bit light compared to others I have heard but I'm not about to question Badger.

That's the right thing to do.

If you are worried about them coming loose just put a drop of non hardening Loctite on them.

J E CUSTOM

 

[bill123]

That's the right thing to do.

If you are worried about them coming loose just put a drop of non hardening Loctite on them.

J E CUSTOM

I didn't know there was one. Do you know the number? Thanks for the great help.

 

[Deleted member 46119]

That's the right thing to do.

If you are worried about them coming loose just put a drop of non hardening Loctite on them.

J E CUSTOM

Do you mean a drop of Loctite blue or purple?

 

[Deleted member 46119]

I'm very interested in this thread because I use Weatherby Mark V actions.

The base whole spacing is the same as a Rem 700 action and there are many more options for bases but the fit is not exact.

I have great success with the EGW bases but I am very fond of the Xtreme Hardcore Gear Tru Level 1-Piece 20 MOA Elevated Picatinny that I use on my 700 actions.

 

[J E Custom]

I didn't know there was one. Do you know the number? Thanks for the great help.

The 222 Loctite is low strength and screws can be removed without ringing them off.

For the other question- The Weatherby and the Remington base screw spacing is the same, "BUT"
they are about .020 thousandths difference in the height of the rear base. I have used shims to make up the difference but recommend the correct bases. I feel that the Near bases are the very best for the Mark V actions.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Dr. Vette]

For the other question- The Weatherby and the Remington base screw spacing is the same, "BUT"
they are about .020 thousandths difference in the height of the rear base. I have used shims to make up the difference but recommend the correct bases. I feel that the Near bases are the very best for the Mark V actions.

J E CUSTOM

Near are the best - and you pay for it. However, I'd buy one if the situation required it. Personally none of my rigs make it to that level.

If I can't purchase a Weatherby-specific base, the use of Burris Signature rings with inserts gets around the issue quite nicely.

 

[Hired Gun]

Near are the best - and you pay for it. However, I'd buy one if the situation required it. Personally none of my rigs make it to that level.

If I can't purchase a Weatherby-specific base, the use of Burris Signature rings with inserts gets around the issue quite nicely.

With the Burris Signature rings I still get the right Leupold Weatherby specific double dovetail bases so you get the full benefit of the offset rings.

Murphy makes rails with the correct elevation offsets for the Mark 5. What they had was close but not good enough. I took a couple Mark 5 actions and measured them out using my mill and supplied those numbers and had them build me a handful of rails. They set dead perfect. I would assume they adopted my corrected numbers and they should still sit perfect without the need for bedding them. We torque them on with 6-48 screws to 16 inch pounds with blue Loctite. They hold on our 300 Wby's just fine holding 8.5-25x50 Leupold scopes.

I second Near as the finest out of the box solution for the Mark 5 action. In fact everything Near makes is first rate.

 

[robert6715]

Bedding the base cant hurt, I recommend waxing the action,(Not the base) waxing the screws and applying the bedding to the base and screwing it down easy, to prevent twisting or torqueing the base. Take a Q Tip and wipe of all excess bedding compound. as the compound cures, loosen
one screw at a time and re tighten to make sure that the screws don't stick.

After the bedding has cured (24 to 48 hours) the base can be removed and it should release clean from the action and remain on the base.

I would not lap the rings unless you cant find good ones.

J E CUSTOM

Just out of curiosity why would you not lap the rings?

Rob