JE Custom and Lone Wolf 30-338 Lapua Improved Weatherby Mark V

[Autorotate]

Autorotate:

Very very nice rig. Have you gotten any farther with any loads since the initial ones? Have you taken anything with it? I imagine you must have since I just ran across this thread and it is well over a year old. But anyway, good luck.

It's taken two moose with two shots since this thread. That load was 103 gr of Retumbo, same nk tension, F215GMs, with 200gr NABs seated at a COAL of 3.785. 3325-3335 fps.gun) About to start with the 225 Hornadys and 230 OTMs.

 

[trophyhunter170]

I'm not familiar with the "TN" approach, forgive my ignorance.

I did use the Cream of Wheat and Pistol powder on another rifle, but could never get out of my mind, the thought of "muffin" debris in my pristine uber precise custom barrel.....my time is precious, probably like many shooters, so I've come to developing a load with my first batch of virgin brass cases, and enjoying/learning the rifle by shooting during fireforming.

103 grains is what I use now with the 210 Berger. I'm ashamed to admit it...but the Lapua case has allowed 108 grains of Retumbo under a 210 VLKD to be fired with no classic visible/tactile signs of pressure. I won't post the velocity. Again I post that, out of shock/shame, and the hope it saves someone from doing something dumb. Some smart folks on this board, pointed me to completing a "pressure ladder" using Norma brass loaded (still consistent, but just softer/not as tough as Lapua) in one grain increments until pressure signs were evident. This would enable me to get in the ballpark for final load development with the Lapua brass, as it is so tough...it might be easy to get into pressure trouble, and not even know it, especially with a very concentric chamber.

H1000 and the 200 NAB work well together in this round so far as well. gun)

I just got a box of the Hornday 225 grainers with what looks to be a .351 G7 BC...anxious to see how they shoot. I'd like to try the new Viht N570 with that bullet in this chamber, but I haven't cracked the code on obtaining "botique" powders like that here yet. Yet.

So you've got a bunch of great bullets for LRH to pick from..200 NAB, 208 AMAX, 210 VLD, 225 Hornday (not sure that's a proven hunting bullet yet)...

Hello Autorotate, I am begging for info again. Just curious if you have a good starting load for H1000, RL25 and/or N170 powders? I am running behind on my rifle due to scope availability. My rifle is little more picky with pressures. The Retumbo at 104 is max. Like yours 103 works well (consistently in the .350 range at 3,265). I have settled on the 101.5 because it gives just as good or better accuracy and has lower pressure. It has a velocity of 3,206. This rifles recoil is like a 308. However it is very loud as all rifles with brakes are.

Your info if avaible would be greatly appreciated. Have not posted this rifle yet because I have not recieved my NF scope yet. Will post when rig is final.gun)

 

[Autorotate]

TH-Sorry to hold you up. I must've missed this post some how.

As far as a starting load for H1000...there's a couple different lots out there...some of them are burning a bit quicker than they used to IMHO...So I'm kind of hesitant to quantify a specific starting load for you.

Max loads for H1000 seem to be right at 2-2.5 grains less than Retumbo, and about 75-100 fps in my rifle depending on the specific bullet/seating depth/primer combo.

Perhaps sneaking up a established Retumbo charge with H1000 using the methodology/observations above can get you where you need to be. How'd I do?

Which NXS?

Good shooting. gun)

 

[trophyhunter170]

Thanks for the info. I have decided to stick with the Retumbo. I have had sizing problems and sent my die back because it was over sizing the brass. Neil agreed with me and opened the die up and it is on the way back to me, so now I think I will have improved groups. I have been getting .250 to .350 average 100 yd groups consistently at 3,230 FPS which is plenty.

I love this rifle, however I have it sold after my hunt in November and then I will start on another build of the same. Will not change a thing except maybe a 1/4 inch shorter barrel. I have a 51 inch case and it is tight getting it in with a 26.75 barrel and the muzzle brake.

My scope is a G7 Nightforce 5.5-22 56MM which I hope to have in a week. Nightforce makes it for G7 and it has G7's reticle design, BDC Turret and a windage adjustment knob cover. I like their reticle because it is designed for LR shooting. They design the turret for your caliber.

gun)

 

[trophyhunter170]

Well it has been a while since my build was completed and Autorotate wanted pics of builds that was related to his so here it is.

I used his 30-338 Lapua Imp. reamer design because it is basically what I was looking for. My build basically comprised of the following components:

Stiller TAC 338 Action
Krieger 30 Cal, 10 Twist, 26.75" REM LV Barrel
Jewell Trigger
"V" Port Vaporizer Muzzle Brake
Remington BDL Floor plate
Weatherby 30-378 Mag Box and Follower
McMillan Remington Hunter Stock
Limb Saver Pad 13.50" Pull
Talley LW 30MM Rings/Bases
Night Force G7 5.5-22x56 Scope
KG Gun-Kote Stainless Finish
Flat Black Alumi-hyde II on Barrel Flutes, Bolt Flutes, and all other black parts.

My rifle would shoot a 210 VLD @ 3,225 in the mid 3's all day long and was really a pleasure to shoot. Total rifle/scope weight was just under 12 lbs. Took it on my MO trip, but did not take a whitetail with it. I did let a 135-140 class 9 point walk at 586 yds. Thought I might regret that, but the next day I took a massive 141 4/8's 8 point with my 7.5 LB, 7WSM, Model 7 build from a treestand.

I loved this rifle, but another guy loved it more than me and offered me a price I could not refuse. So I sold it without the scope. I have now started on another build. After watching deer in the MO corn and bean fields at various yardages, I decided that 1000-1200 yds is about the max I would want to shoot. Also in the fields I hunt there would never be a shot much over a 1000 yds. so I have decided to go down in cartridge size. Have done a lot of research and have decided on the 7mm Dakota. I may do a Improved version or a 7mm-300 Dakota. This round will be just above the 7STW in velocity and should be more effiecient. Velocity should be around 75-100 FPS less than a 7RUM with 180VLD's, but will also be a lot less powder (7-9 grains depending on powder). When you run the ballistic numbers this round will not be that far behind the big 30-338 Lapua and wind drift is less. Can also use a shorter barrel (25") and a standard long Predator Action verses the TAC 338. May stay with the TAC 338. Need to dicuss bolt face with Stiller. Going to try the new McMillan Game Scout stock this round.

Will be a while before I have my Action and Barrel. Hard to believe in these hard times that you have to wait 5 months for these items. Will post my again when project is completed. Hope you all had a great and safe hunting season in 2011. gun)

 

[IdahoCTD]

So did you guys settle on the lower velocities for accuracy, brass life, something else? I've thought about doing a .30-338 Lapua AI but if 3200-3300 with 210's in a 30" barrel is all there is for accuracy and long brass life then I'll keep shooting my .30-8 Mag at 3100fps in a 27.5" barrel with 76grs of powder and groups in the .3".

 

[trophyhunter170]

My rifle barrel was 27.5 and achieved velocities over 3400 with it. I am sure a 30 inch would be faster. Mine shot the same with 101.5 and 103 of Retumbo. Shot the lesser charge for case life. My rifle apparently was more sensitive to pressure than the Weatherby action build.

 

[IdahoCTD]

How bad was brass life affected running 3400? If brass life isn't 6-8 reloads at 3400fps it's hardly worth doing for me. Downloading to 3200fps to get 10 plus reloads at 25+ grains of additional powder doesn't make much sense to me.

 

[trophyhunter170]

My barrel was 26.75 not 27.50.

 

[trophyhunter170]

My dies were over sizing the brass and after that was corrected I did not have the rifle long enough to tell you about case life. I know I lost about 50-60 cases in the beginning because of the defective dies. OUCH

 

[trophyhunter170]

Any you guys need some 338 Lapua Brass, I now have an asortment. Some new and some once fired. All cases have been weighed, sorted, and primer pockets trued. They are still 338 Lapua and not 30-338 Lapua Imp. as my rifle was. I will take $1.50 each for once fired and $2.00 for new brass.

Contact me at [email protected] if interested.

 

[AtteL]

What is differens between 30-338 Lapua, and 300 Lapua?
.300 Lapua Magnum - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[Autorotate]

Idaho CTD-The load I settled in on, was because it shot very small groups that day during load development, and still does.

I would be very happy if you are shooting 1/3 MOA at distance with your 30-8 (not sure what that is).

The discussion of velocity potential of a rifle vs barrel bore/groove diameter/mfg, concentric chambers, various actions....could go on and on and on, and still never be resolved.

Given equal case life, 26-27" barrel lengths, repeater capable COALs, and the use of temperature tolerant "hunting" powders, IMHO, you will be hard pressed to find a 30 caliber capable of matching the MV potential of the 30-338 Lapua Improved.

Attel-Since no brass is mfg for the 300 Lapua, folks have to wildcat or make thier own. The 338 Lapua case is the most commonly used as a parent case for the 300 Lapua/30-338 Lapua......therefore the differences between a 300 Lapua and 30-338 Lapua should only be answered by consulting the specific finish reamer print, or the dimensions of 3 times fired brass IMHO from the rifle in question....lots of variations. This will manifest itself into headaches with resizing dies if you try and do it any other way.

Finish reamer dimensions->fired brass dimensions->resizing die dimensions->fired brass dimensions should all be on the same sheet of music regarding your plans for the rifle.

-Your gunsmith is the best person to have this conversation with.

Good shooting! gun)

 

[trophyhunter170]

Great answer Autorate