I stuck a bullet in the barrel, Help!

[65WSM]

I managed to stick a bullet while fire forming.



I need help removing the bullet from the barrel.



The specifics are that I stuck a 160 gr Sierra Semi-spitzer in a 26 inch barrel, 8 inches from the muzzle. The barrel is a 9 twist Rock Creek #3 (light sporter) that has been nitrocarburzied. The chambering is 6.5-06 Ackley improved (.270 brass). The action is a 2011 Model 70.



I have tried to pound it out with a 3/16 steel rod and hammer. I could not move it. I mushroomed the end of the rod.



I need suggestions and experience.



One would be to remove the barrel from the action, heat the barrel to above the melting point of the Sierra core alloy and then push the remains of the jacket (very carefully to get it all) from the bore. Am I right that the core should melt at about 650 degrees?



Another idea would be to shoot it out. Put a powder charge into a case point the barrel upright and pull the trigger. I would use Accurate 5744 because it does well in cases that are not full. I regularly shoot 85 and 100 gr Sierra hollow points at 2800-2950 fps in other 6.5 cartridges at crows with half a case of 5744.

 

[Tikkamike]

Please tell me you didn't really pound on a steel rod in the barrel so hard you mushroomed the end of it.... Here is what you do. Take it to a smith have him remove the barrel and install a new one because you probably just ruined this one.

 

[mountainman56]

Another idea would be to shoot it out.Put a powder charge into a case point the barrel upright and pull the trigger. I would use Accurate 5744 because it does well in cases that are not full.I regularly shoot 85 and 100 gr Sierra hollow points at 2800-2950 fps in other 6.5 cartridges at crows with half a case of 5744.

Please tell me you're not considering this. If you do, tie it to a fence post and get a very long string to set it off.......then send us pictures of the barrel.

 

[J E Custom]

One would be to remove the barrel from the action, heat the barrel to above the melting point of the Sierra core alloy and then push the remains of the jacket (very carefully to get it all) from the bore.[/SIZE] Am I right that the core should melt at about 650 degrees?[/FONT]



Another idea would be to shoot it out. Put a powder charge into a case point the barrel upright and pull the trigger. I would use Accurate 5744 because it does well in cases that are not full. I regularly shoot 85 and 100 gr Sierra hollow points at 2800-2950 fps in other 6.5 cartridges at crows with half a case of 5744.


[/QUOTE]



Don't do anything, as others have said. you have ruined the barrel anyway and it will never shoot
because of damage from the steel rod.

Either method you mentioned will ruin the barrel anyway. so I am afraid you will just have to replace it.

If you replace it you will save everything else and you can chalk it up to experience. heating the barrel that hot will ruin it, and firing it with the bullet 2/3s down will probably blow up the entire rifle and ruin the stock and maybe the action.

You are not the first to do this, when fire forming I always start with the minimum listed load
in the loading manuals to avoid squib loads. This minimum load will fire form the case well and
safely.

Another thing I will mention, case density should be 85% + and if you use a powder charge that is less you can get into
trouble because of the air space in the case. (This condition can change the burn rate of the powder because of excessive oxygen and create a detonation). it is best to load slower powders to reduce velocities and fill the cases to 85%+. Just because you have gotten away with 50% case density's doesn't mean you always will. Squib loads are very very dangerous
and should not be used EVER. (Not to lecture you, just some advice )

Sorry about your trouble but don't compound your problems.

REPLACE IT !!!

J E CUSTOM

 

[lightflight]

Turn it into an 18" barrel.

 

[FearNoWind]

Sorry, 65WSN, looks like it's barrel replacement time. Clearly, this information won't help you but it may help others who are new to reloading and fire forming.
You have probably read stories about fire forming with SWAG light loads (sometimes with anything from cream of wheat corn meal added) to fire form cases. Those practices are dangerous and, as your experience reveals, often ineffective.
The previous advice (J.E. Custom) about using minimum charges as listed in your reloading manuals is probably the best way to avoid these kinds of issues.

 

[FEENIX]

...

 

[Hired Gun]

A 160 grain Sierra for a 6.5? You don't see those much anymore. Anyway, I fire form a little different than a lot of people. Once the press work is done and you are ready to fire form I use my full power load for the improved case, as long as it fits, and go varmint hunting. At least shoot some targets. I have found the accuracy while forming to be excellent. The brass case is only a bladder much like the inner tube of a tire and is fully formed long before the case sees full pressure so it's not going to cause a high pressure or do anything weird. This way I get to shoot stuff and get perfect fully formed brass ready to polish up and anneal. This way I don't waste time, barrel life or components just forming brass.

I agree your barrel is most likely wrecked from the steel rod. Brass is what I use and if need be turn a tight fitting plug and use grease to hydraulically push it out. In an extreme case you can fit the muzzle with a grease zerk and push it out with a high pressure grease gun. Thy will generate as high as 15,000psi in a controlled manner that will not launch a bullet. Then we lead slug it to see if it was bulged

 

[justgoto]

Turn it into an 18" barrel.

That sounds like the most inexpensive way to salvage the barrel; that is, if it actually is damaged.

 

[J E Custom]

...

Sometimes you crack me up FEENIX.

I know the poster feels bad but sometimes you just have to laugh at your screw ups (I DO).

J E CUSTOM

 

[Hired Gun]

I'm betting it's wrecked in a big way. I would bank on the rifling being smashed everywhere that steel rod was smacking into it as the rod flexed when being hit. With my borescope I can see when stainless cleaning rods have damaged the bore from whacking it with a palm to get a tight patch going.

A 6.5-06AI in a fast twist 18" barrel is not really much an option. At 26" it was still considered short. At 18" he will be burning a lot of powder and lucky to get 6.5 Grendal performance.

Reminds me of a 22" 300 Wby I once had. 89 grains of 7828 to get 30-06 speeds.

 

[65WSM]

The 6.5-06 barrel is 26 inches long it has a 1 in 8 twist. The barrel is nitrocarburized so it may be much harder (C65-72) then the steel rod that I pounded on it with. The grease fitting is interesting. I will discuss it with the riflesmith. Thanks.

 

[436]

6.5WSM

Well it sounds like you did it alright, but nothing that hasn't been done before. Guys are sticking heaving bullets in their rifles all the time; specially when their making up subsonic loads for there suppressors. I've use (10.0gr's) of 2400 in my .308 Win/300 Wm which sounds about right for your problem. Keep the cartridge upright after dropping in the powder charge, I use a small piece of clear tape on the mouth after the powder in the case; so I can tell if I kept the cartridge upright.

Keep the muzzle upright, then chamber the pusher cartridge "you have to keep the muzzle up at all times. I like to get close to and under a low hanging tree branch for a back stop or something like one. Discharge the pusher cartridge and the bullet should come out. If it didn't repeat the process and add another grain of powder. Don't add more then 12grs.

Hope this help.. it's not a big problem sticking one.
Cheer's
436

 

[Hired Gun]

How about 10 "pushers"?