Help with muzzle break

Also
Thank everybody for suggestion off brake but I am not in the USA ,so to me is very hard to get something from You.
 
Sometimes we out think a problem and create a different problem. I looked back at the recoil test we performed on the 375 H&H and found some information that may help.

With a 300 grain bullet @ 2500 ft/sec and a chamber pressure just under 50,000 Psi the best recoil reduction was 50.6 % (Recoil without a brake in 8 pound rifle was 49.2 ft/lbs) After many different styles/designs of brakes, the best tested was a side port with no ports top or bottom. Muzzle rise was minimal.

Previous testing on other cartridges showed that uneven shaped ports did not function as well reducing recoil and induces unbalanced vectoring of the gases. Trying to control muzzle rise buy altering the location and angle of the ports was not very effective and any change in the load effected the rifle noticeably.

The most effective way to control recoil was with Ports angled 90o to the bore and buy installing One small port in the top of the brake. This port has to be tuned for the load buy increasing the diameter slowly, working up to the level you want. If it is to big it will apply down force great enough to force the muzzle below the aiming point.

We found that the best accuracy was also achieved with the use of apposing ports of uniform size and shape with No top ports or any design that attempted to perform this function. All brakes tested reduced recoil by the nature of redirecting the ignition gasses, but the percent of reduction was any where from 18 to 20% up to 50 % on the same rifles. The magnums ( 90 of powder and up) showed the same percentage on the low end of brake design up to 70 % on well designed brakes.

What I am trying to say is other than looks, the unusual port designs don't produce the best recoil reduction so keep the design simple and you will be rewarded with better recoil reduction and control.

J E CUSTOM

Thank You for advice.
But I must say,from my expirience, muzzle raise is very different when You shoot prone and when You shoot sitting or standing(much more muzzle raise)
I would shooting my 375 sitting and standing and for that reason I ask for better muzzle raise managament.
Thanks
 
Thank You for advice.
But I must say,from my expirience, muzzle raise is very different when You shoot prone and when You shoot sitting or standing(much more muzzle raise)
I would shooting my 375 sitting and standing and for that reason I ask for better muzzle raise managament.
Thanks


I totally understand what you are looking for and have a few more suggestions if interested. First I would design a 5 port brake without any top ports, that can handle the gas volume. This should reduce the recoil even more and minimize muzzle rise.

Also like you, many of us don't like the flare that top port brakes cause and at night time any site will be effected by this flare and detract from the follow up shots. Weight and stock design have the most effect on this problem. But high efficiency muzzle brakes will also help. Stocks with a higher butt plate (Heel) will have less muzzle rise. Many prone rifles locate the heel on the centerline of the bore and some even on the top of the barrel centerline to reduce muzzle rise. These stocks will normally have a cheek piece and require the stock be milled for bolt removal.

You will see many of the long range rifles with this bolt removal inletting.

Hope this helps

J E CUSTOM
 
I totally understand what you are looking for and have a few more suggestions if interested. First I would design a 5 port brake without any top ports, that can handle the gas volume. This should reduce the recoil even more and minimize muzzle rise.

Also like you, many of us don't like the flare that top port brakes cause and at night time any site will be effected by this flare and detract from the follow up shots. Weight and stock design have the most effect on this problem. But high efficiency muzzle brakes will also help. Stocks with a higher butt plate (Heel) will have less muzzle rise. Many prone rifles locate the heel on the centerline of the bore and some even on the top of the barrel centerline to reduce muzzle rise. These stocks will normally have a cheek piece and require the stock be milled for bolt removal.

You will see many of the long range rifles with this bolt removal inletting.

Hope this helps

J E CUSTOM

I am opet for suggestion.

Barrel diameter on the end is 0.748" or 19mm.

For the stock
It is Sauer 202 hatari.
 
I dont want top ports because of precaution,I just dont want risk that some particle flew to lens of thermal(germanium) or any optic for that matter.
Another reason is NV and smoke from powder,no matter it is smokeless powder there is still some smoke and other thing, and when You fired once You dont see anything for few long seconds (if iluminator is on).So I want only side vents.
Another reason is rain, I think it is safer if You dont have top ports.

Why I put brake in it.
Few reason
I was already in some thread mention problem of scope sliping in the rings.
NV and thermal are pricey and I think they are not durable as day scope, and I want minimize impact on them.
I have few more reason but that is far less relevant.

Not sure if it is legal or available where you are at but have you considered a suppressor? Yes, they are pricey but if you are trying to protect another pricey investment, it is might be something to consider ... just a thought for you to ponder. Good luck!
 
That is ok.
But to me can is just too long ,rifle is too much nose heavy and brakes are better for recoil.
 
My next brake will have holes drilled in the top with grub screws in them as well as side ports so I can shoot it with video and see if I need to dampen down the muzzle jump, if you do, just remove a screw. You could then play with which hole gave best accuracy.
 
My next brake will have holes drilled in the top with grub screws in them as well as side ports so I can shoot it with video and see if I need to dampen down the muzzle jump, if you do, just remove a screw. You could then play with which hole gave best accuracy.
Already being done...
 
It is over.
Here is some pictures.
Test will be in a week or soo.
 

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just saw your posts, I guess you already have one-- I was going to suggest since you are not in the US to look into the terminator brakes--your design looks similar to those though
 
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