Help with muzzle break

josip89

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Apr 23, 2014
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Hello

I have one 375HH with 24" barrel and I am thinking too shorten that at about 21.25" and too put muzzle break.

It would be a custom muzzle break and I need advice in what direction to put holes.

I dont want holes on the top side so I have idea off angled ports and i need advice (what angle and what direction)
I will put side pictures of brake

Thanks
 

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I want with angled "up" or "down" ports eliminate muzzle raise ,same thing like top ports.
 
I made a slide to test brakes. One time I threaded both ends on one with angled ports. I fired three times on each end and three times with no brake. Without a brake it went about 30". With the 22* angled ports forward it moved about a foot. With the angles toward the shooter it moved about 8". So even when the ports were the wrong direction the brake was still effective.
 
I made a slide to test brakes. One time I threaded both ends on one with angled ports. I fired three times on each end and three times with no brake. Without a brake it went about 30". With the 22* angled ports forward it moved about a foot. With the angles toward the shooter it moved about 8". So even when the ports were the wrong direction the brake was still effective.
I dont think You understend me what I mean on angled ports.
 

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Because top port can "throw" something (like unburnt powder or sometnihg similiar)to the scope (but I am more worry about night vision and thermal).
 
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This is more of a precaution. With night optics, and especially if the illuminator is on, when you shoot because of smoke or smoke particles, nothing can be seen. and another reason is rain.
 
Look at lrcustomsinc.com
His brakes are great with angle ports. I'm not sure why you think you'll have a problem with top ports. Never been an issue on any brake I've ever had. He also has a model with adjustable top ports.
 
How much shooting do you do with this gun? Are you sure you need a brake?

I only ask because I have a 20" barreled 375h&h that is 7.6lbs including scope and a loaded mag. And has no muzzle device of any sort. While it's pretty unpleasant to shoot from a bench all day long, 10rnds isn't a problem and I've never once noticed the recoil when hunting. If you're worried about blast particulate ejection maybe a linear compensator is a better option. Les recoil reduction, but no flash/blast/particulate issues.

I've always found the recoil of this round, even in a light rifle with hot 300gr handloads to be more of a push that a punch/kick. It's MUCH more tolerable than my unbraked 8.25lb 300rum was. That thing would have me flinching in 3 shots from a bench lol
 
I have a Ruger #1 in .375 H & H, shoot 325 gr Cutting Edge and get 3/4" three-shot groups. But as already mentioned I don't shoot over 15-20 rounds a session and when hunting, hopefully, only one round. So recoil, while not a lot of fun really isn't a problem. And the gun is sufficiently accurate for me...my personal hunting range limit is 300 -400 yards. If I want to climb mountains I have another .375 H & H that shoots under an inch, has a muzzle brake on a 26" barrel and gun plus scope weigh 8 lbs.
 
Sometimes we out think a problem and create a different problem. I looked back at the recoil test we performed on the 375 H&H and found some information that may help.

With a 300 grain bullet @ 2500 ft/sec and a chamber pressure just under 50,000 Psi the best recoil reduction was 50.6 % (Recoil without a brake in 8 pound rifle was 49.2 ft/lbs) After many different styles/designs of brakes, the best tested was a side port with no ports top or bottom. Muzzle rise was minimal.

Previous testing on other cartridges showed that uneven shaped ports did not function as well reducing recoil and induces unbalanced vectoring of the gases. Trying to control muzzle rise buy altering the location and angle of the ports was not very effective and any change in the load effected the rifle noticeably.

The most effective way to control recoil was with Ports angled 90o to the bore and buy installing One small port in the top of the brake. This port has to be tuned for the load buy increasing the diameter slowly, working up to the level you want. If it is to big it will apply down force great enough to force the muzzle below the aiming point.

We found that the best accuracy was also achieved with the use of apposing ports of uniform size and shape with No top ports or any design that attempted to perform this function. All brakes tested reduced recoil by the nature of redirecting the ignition gasses, but the percent of reduction was any where from 18 to 20% up to 50 % on the same rifles. The magnums ( 90 of powder and up) showed the same percentage on the low end of brake design up to 70 % on well designed brakes.

What I am trying to say is other than looks, the unusual port designs don't produce the best recoil reduction so keep the design simple and you will be rewarded with better recoil reduction and control.

J E CUSTOM
 
I dont want top ports because of precaution,I just dont want risk that some particle flew to lens of thermal(germanium) or any optic for that matter.
Another reason is NV and smoke from powder,no matter it is smokeless powder there is still some smoke and other thing, and when You fired once You dont see anything for few long seconds (if iluminator is on).So I want only side vents.
Another reason is rain, I think it is safer if You dont have top ports.

Why I put brake in it.
Few reason
I was already in some thread mention problem of scope sliping in the rings.
NV and thermal are pricey and I think they are not durable as day scope, and I want minimize impact on them.
I have few more reason but that is far less relevant.
 
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