had it with chemical solvents? try an enzyme!

Discussion in 'Equipment Discussions' started by goodgrouper, Sep 14, 2004.

  1. goodgrouper

    goodgrouper Well-Known Member

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    The enzyme I am talking about is called Hunter's Extreme Copper Melt. It is made in Canada and it works with a live, water-soluble enzyme that has been bio-engineered to literally eat copper,moly,powder residue, and lead almost instantly. A friend of mine was given a bottle of this stuff at the 2004 Shot Show and let me try it on a barrel of mine that usually takes 7-8 hours of scrubbing with cr-10 and Butch's. The barrel was clean with 8 patches! Needless to say, I have been using the stuff ever since. I don't believe in magic potions, but this stuff really deserves your attention, especially if you clean your guns often and are "anal" about it. I have put this stuff on a piece of barrel metal overnight for 3 nights and it made absolutely no discoloration at all. I then put a drop on a bullet and let it sit overnight. In the morning it had almost dissolved the jacket down to the lead. Of course, there are always some drawbacks to something this good. One is cost. This product is expensive. $30 for a 3.5 oz. bottle. You also have to gear up with undersized nylon brushes for your caliber because it is designed to work with an oversized patch wrapped around an undersized brush. And it has to be nylon because it will eat your bronze brushes for lunch. Another drawback is that since it is a living organism, it is possible to kill it. If you contaminate the supplied dropper with anything foreign and then stick it back in the bottle it will wipe out your $30 bucks. But if you can deal with these drawbacks the rewards are great. If you want to know more about it or possibly buy some, check out www.coppermelt.com. And no, I don't sell the stuff and I DIDN'T get paid to write this!!
     
  2. kraky

    kraky Well-Known Member

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    VERY INTERESTING--It's amazing the new products and changes "coming down the pike".!
     
  3. slygunner

    slygunner Member

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    goodgrouper,
    Thanks for turning me on to copper melt [​IMG] . I also mentioned this amazing product on another forum and it got no attention. I don't know if people are afraid of trying new things or just can't justify spending that much money on it. When you let me use it at the range that day I thought that my barrel was copper free because butch's showed no discoloration on the patch, man was I wrong [​IMG]. Then it only took 4 patches to completely remove all the copper. I can't say for an absolute positive but I will never use anything else, unless something better comes along which I can't see happening in the near future. Thanks again.
    slygunner
     
  4. goodgrouper

    goodgrouper Well-Known Member

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    slygunner
    Your welcome! Just don't buy the last bottle on the shelf--it's for me!
    P.S. Welcome to the best forum on the net!
    -goodgrouper
     
  5. goodgrouper

    goodgrouper Well-Known Member

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    It has been sometime since I posted this product, but Robert Anderson's post on copper solvents today reminded me of it. He has used this product and seems to have found the same conclusion I did. That stuff really is the best. I was kinda disappointed when I first posted this procuct becuase people didn't seem to really respond to it as well as I thought they would. I would really like to re-iterate how awesome this stuff really is so that it will get used and the company will stick around awhile. We just started carrying it at my place of work and I've got several dozen people started on it and all of them can't believe how good it works. They have thrown away or shot their old solvents because you just don't need them anymore. If you haven't tried it yet, go to www.coppermelt.com and give it a look!
    --goodgrouper
     
  6. joseywales

    joseywales Active Member

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    Will this work well to clean the cylinder fronts of a 44 magnum stainless revolver? They are black and I want to clean them well.
     
  7. kac1345

    kac1345 Well-Known Member

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    Ok You guys talked me into it I just ordered a bottle to try and some brushes...but I have a question for ya guys I"m cleaning .223, a .308, and a .338 Lapua I went to the site ans seen I needed .25cal brushes for the .308 and .27 brushes for the Lapua ...but the .223 it says to use a .17cal brush ...do they make them to fit the standard size threds on a dewy rod...I called and ordered from Brownels and they said that the .17cal brushes thay had was different threads (Smaller) and the adapter actually went the wrong way it went even smaller yet. any info would be great. Thanks Keith
     
  8. goodgrouper

    goodgrouper Well-Known Member

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    Longrange Demon Tackac,

    Yes it is true that to clean a 22 caliber you have to run a 17 caliber rod and brush. I have found that the easiest way to go is to just buy a blue-coated Kleenbore 17 rod and their 17 brush. J-Dewey makes a great 17 rod, but their brush has a brass center and it will give you false readings of blue patches when your barrel is clean. Kleenbore's brush works great and has an aluminum center. The whole Kleenbore setup for rod and brush is about $11. Also, I have found that Kleenbore's square patches work best because they seem to be tougher. I usually buy a 500 count bag of the .22-.270 patches, and the .28-35 patches and then you have a patch for all your calibers.
    --goodgrouper
     
  9. goodgrouper

    goodgrouper Well-Known Member

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    Josey Wales

    I have never tried Coppermelt on a cylinder face but I would bet it would work fine. Usually, when cleaning rifle barrels, it gets all the powder residue out in one patch!
     
  10. kac1345

    kac1345 Well-Known Member

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    GoodGrouper ..your just talking about the brushes from dewey right? I have two coated dewey rods and would hate to buy more rods, if I use the coated dewey rods and the Nylon brushes I should be ok right? if not do you have a link to the rods your talking about? Thanks Keith
     
  11. goodgrouper

    goodgrouper Well-Known Member

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    Yes, you can still use the Dewey rods with your calibers bigger than .22 but I would use your adapter that comes with the Dewey rod so you can still run the Kleenbore brushes. All the Kleenbore brushes are aluminum center and I think all the Deweys are brass centered.
    The .22 caliber stuff though, you must run the 17 brush and 17 rod. Kleenbore sells their rod for about $10-$11, but if you already have a 17 Dewey rod and don't want to buy another brand, then stick with it. It will just take awhile for the brass center to quit leaving blue patches. It kinda has to burnish off. I'm not totally sure, but I think Kleenbore has a website at www.kleenbore.com. That 17 rod should be on there. It is the only rod they make that has a blue coating. --goodgrouper
     
  12. kac1345

    kac1345 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks goodgrouper I appriciate all the info
    Keith
     
  13. jb1000br

    jb1000br Well-Known Member

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    17 cal rod and brush to clean a 22cal...WTF are you talking about!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

    you're kidding right--the brush would be at least 0.030 from even touching the lands?

    granted that 30 thou would be taken up with a patch, then it would be just touching.

    dont make sense to me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  14. goodgrouper

    goodgrouper Well-Known Member

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    JB1000BR,
    It sounds weird but it works like this;
    You take a 17 nylon brush and then wrap around a 1 1/4" patch. It goes around the brush about 2 times and makes up the gap- and quite snugly too. Works great, and in fact, a little more air space seems to energize the enzyme even better!

    P.S. If anybody else ends up trying it out of sheer curiosity, please please please e-mail me or post your experience here for others to enjoy!