Full length sizing vs. neck sizing 338 Lapua

[TLD338]

I've been reloading for a few years now, and have run across varing oppinions on the case sizing issue. For me, I full length size my brass for semi autos to help them cycle, but for the bolt guns I only neck size them and leave the case fire formed to the chamber.

What would be the bennifit to full length sizing for the bolt guns? My method has served me well in the past, but I'm trying to work up an accuracy load for my recently accuired Savage 110 FCP in 338 Lapua and see that there are a lot of folks FL sizing there brass.

My current load is producing 1" groups at 200yds. and I'm pretty satisfied with that....But.....what if it was 3/4" at 200yds....gun)

Here's where I'm at right now.

Savage 110 FCP w/ nightforce 5.5-22x50
Lapua brass
Winchester large magnum primers
Barnes 280gn LRX bullets
seated to .010 off rifleing
83gns of retumbo
Chrono at 2600 fps.

Any input y'all might have would be greatly appreciated

 

[Broz]

I now full length size after running into a little trouble by only necking the 338 LM. After a firing or two the shoulder needs to be kept back. Running tight against the shoulder with a little bit of a firm bolt close will result in a pressure increase. This can result is hard extraction or at least inconstant velocities.

But the proper way to keep shoulder in check and not over size them comes by using good dies and knowledge of how to set them up. I use Redding comp ides and do the neck and shoulder in two steps with stepped shell holders that alow me to only bump the shoulders back .001 ~ .002. When I run the brass through the body die to set shoulder some that have not grown get nothing, some get the shoulder touches just a bit. The point is if they need it they get it. If they don't they don't. This results in my brass being as close to the same spec. all the time. At least this works well for me.

So, yeah. Full size if you can do it without over sizing your brass down too much.

Jeff

 

[Boss Hoss]

Been hand loading the 338 Lapua or a variant for over 20 years..

Waste of time trying to neck only size.

 

[barnesuser28]

I've been reloading for a few years now, and have run across varing oppinions on the case sizing issue. For me, I full length size my brass for semi autos to help them cycle, but for the bolt guns I only neck size them and leave the case fire formed to the chamber.

What would be the bennifit to full length sizing for the bolt guns? My method has served me well in the past, but I'm trying to work up an accuracy load for my recently accuired Savage 110 FCP in 338 Lapua and see that there are a lot of folks FL sizing there brass.

My current load is producing 1" groups at 200yds. and I'm pretty satisfied with that....But.....what if it was 3/4" at 200yds....gun)

Here's where I'm at right now.

Savage 110 FCP w/ nightforce 5.5-22x50
Lapua brass
Winchester large magnum primers
Barnes 280gn LRX bullets
seated to .010 off rifleing
83gns of retumbo
Chrono at 2600 fps.

Any input y'all might have would be greatly appreciated

Thats pretty much where i am at, only i am using fed 215 gms and am .1" off the lands. I will bet you a small fortune if you move the bullet back to about .050-.100 off the lands you will get your 3/4" at 200 yards... probably even better. I have to bump the shoulders back every time or i get stuck cases.

 

[TLD338]

Barnesuser28,

I loaded up 3 different batches last night. .015, .020, & .025 off the lands just to see what I could come up with. Will put them on paper tomorrow and see what happens. I'll take your advise thou and play around in the .050 - .100 range. Sub 1/2 moa would be awesome from a $1300 rifle.

You runnig around 2600fps. with the 280gn. LRX also? Seems a little slow to me, but I like the groups.

Looks like I need to invest in a good set of FL dies and do some studying up on them. Been eyeballing the redding competition dies for a while now because of the micrometer on the seater die. Adjusting seating depth with these lyman dies is a tedious opperation... I haven't had any stuck case issues as of yet, but I'm just now starting my 3rd reload with this brass.

 

[barnesuser28]

Barnesuser28,

I loaded up 3 different batches last night. .015, .020, & .025 off the lands just to see what I could come up with. Will put them on paper tomorrow and see what happens. I'll take your advise thou and play around in the .050 - .100 range. Sub 1/2 moa would be awesome from a $1300 rifle.

You runnig around 2600fps. with the 280gn. LRX also? Seems a little slow to me, but I like the groups.

Looks like I need to invest in a good set of FL dies and do some studying up on them. Been eyeballing the redding competition dies for a while now because of the micrometer on the seater die. Adjusting seating depth with these lyman dies is a tedious opperation... I haven't had any stuck case issues as of yet, but I'm just now starting my 3rd reload with this brass.

Yup, i am at 83.? grains of retumbo, i have it written down but dont have it infront of me. I ran it over an Oehler 35 (thanks Broz) and got 2580-2600 fps. I need to play around with the load because i think it is a bit unstable (not in the accuracy node). Does yours fouls as bad as mine does? Jeez, with any bullet it takes a good 2 hours of cleaning with CU+2 to get all the copper out.

 

[TLD338]

Haven't had to much trouble with the lrx. I dont have a bore scope, but a couple passes with the brush and some good ol' hoppes #9 solvent seems to do the trick. Did pick up some S&B 250gn match kings cheap a while back, and they seemed to make a mess of things.