Forming 375 Ruger brass from 8x68s cases

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by yorke-1, Aug 22, 2018.

  1. yorke-1

    yorke-1 Well-Known Member

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    There's always a lot of talk about the poor quality of Hornady brass and how that's going to limit the performance or viability of some of the new case designs that Hornady has been marketing lately (6.5 PRC, 300 PRC). I've personally never had an issue with Hornady brass, specifically the 375 Ruger case. I've been shooting a 375 Ruger for around 10 years and I've had excellent results with the Hornady brass. I've also used the 375 Ruger case to form 338/375 Ruger cases (also called the 338 Campfire and a couple other names) in a couple of different guns. The one I've spent the most time with is an 18" barreled specialty pistol that I've got around 1200 rounds through at this point. Combine this with roughly 700 rounds through the other 338/375 Ruger's I've had as well as roughly 900 rounds through the 375 Ruger and I feel like I've had a pretty fair amount of first hand experience with the Hornady brass, at least as it pertains to the 375 Ruger parent case. Over the years, across multiple guns I've come to expect an average of 7 firings per case before the primer pockets are what I consider too loose to continue to load. This is with what I consider to be full power loads in every gun. I don't make a habit of running anything at redline pressures but I do take full advantage of the case capacity that I've got to work with.

    A while back I was looking for a parent case for an idea I had for a magnum class 270 to shoot some of the new 170gr bullets available. The idea for this (and all my other wildcats) was readily available brass and a design that would work using readily available dies to save guys the cost of custom dies if they were working on a budget. The 375 Ruger case is was my first pick but going from 375 down to 277 takes a lot of time and creates very thick necks. The next case that popped into my head was the 8x68s which is the parent case for the 30 Booboo. The 8x68s case is made by both Norma and RWS so there's excellent brass available but its pretty expensive. The rim and head diameter of the 8x68s case are both smaller than the Ruger case but still close enough to work with the right extractor and a fireformed case. This means that you can form 375 Ruger based cases from fireformed 8x68s or 6.5x68 cases with little trouble. This give the option of a higher quality case for folks who want to have round based off of the 375 Ruger parent case.

    With all that out of the way, I thought I'd go through and document some of my progress in forming and testing 8x68s brass into cases for both the 338/375 Ruger and the 270 Boondoggle that I'm going to start working on. To get started, here's a side by side picture of a sectioned RWS 8x68s case on the left and a Hornady 375 Ruger case on the right. any distortion in the cases was caused by the vise I held them in while splitting them in half.
    [​IMG]

    I know that there are a couple other folks on here who've done this, so if you guys want to chime in with any info you have please do! I'll work on getting some more pics and measurements in the next couple of days.
     
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  2. elkaholic

    elkaholic Well-Known Member

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    I formed it for my 30/375 S.I. and am currently using it as my go to brass. It is a little tricky until you get the technique down. Jace Callender and "Phorwath" both have done this process with theirs as well. There is a lot of extra length to work with but it also shrinks a bunch when forming my low taper, 40 degree shoulder S.I. I start by trimming to 2.600" and then pushing the shoulder back to my spec with a 338 rcm die. I then neck down again with my 30 die setting the head space and then running the neck a small distance into a 7mm die to taper the mouth. I do this because my chamber is 2.580" and you can't chamber the case unless that portion can slide into the throat a bit. I then load some tite group (I'll have to check the charge) and fill the case with c o w to the neck and plug with a piece of shop towel. After firing, I turn the neck down to fit my chamber spec. It takes at least 2 full load firings to blow the case head out from the web back because you are going from about .518" to .532". The capacity ends up close to Hornady, but much better brass. I have had zero extraction issues with my BAT action even though the rim is only .512".
    The process, of course, would be somewhat different for the 338 or straight 30/375.
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2018
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  3. jasent

    jasent Well-Known Member

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    Tagging
     
  4. Phoeniceltic

    Phoeniceltic Well-Known Member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2018
  5. elkaholic

    elkaholic Well-Known Member

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    Lengthening would be an option but I can shoot the 225's now at 3100' if I want to and the rifle shoots very well. I have enough mag to run longer coal but I'm at 3.7" now and most people would be limited.
     
  6. phorwath

    phorwath Well-Known Member

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    Rich,
    We're you able to reduce case shrinkage during COW fire forming with the case lube and change in fire forming powder? And was Jace able to?

    The MV from the 338/375 Ruger with the 250s is looking good...
     
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  7. elkaholic

    elkaholic Well-Known Member

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    I've reduced it somewhat, but I don't have your majic touch!:D
     
  8. phorwath

    phorwath Well-Known Member

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    Should I open for business? "Mighdas Touch" :)
    Ponzi scheme...
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2018
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  9. Oldcappj7

    Oldcappj7 Active Member

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    Using a powder similar to that phorwath used and the case lube I was able to keep a case of at least 2.580 consistently. So yes it seems good. I haven’t shot that enough since to get a feel of numbers of loading but hit on 84.5 of N570 with the 225 ELDMs at approx 3100 depending on conditions. It is definitely stouter brass than the 375 Ruger

    Jace
     
  10. mgood

    mgood Well-Known Member

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    :eek:
    8x68 brass was so hard to come by for so long, and it just seems to be becoming more available here. I might've gone with an 8x68S rather than the 8mm Rem Mag but brass was just about impossible to get in the U.S. at the time I bought the Big 8.

    I know one guy who built his own wildcat version of an 8x68 . . . using 375 Ruger brass. :p
     
  11. shawnb

    shawnb Well-Known Member

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    Good write up. I will add in that 300win mag brass works as well, theres an ugly spot just above the belt where it blows the casing out, but it works very well and i havent had any issues.

    This may be of some help for rifles that cant cycle the 8x68s brass like mine. The factory remington extractor doesnt work.
     
  12. jasent

    jasent Well-Known Member

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    got any pics?
     
  13. shawnb

    shawnb Well-Known Member

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    This is a federal case that was once fired i tried for forming. Right now i am only using about 10 pieces of 300win brass (all i had) and just using up my 375 ruger brass.

    I have gunwerks brass on backorder so waiting for that to come in
     

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  14. jasent

    jasent Well-Known Member

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    Interesting