Fixing ejector marks on headstamp

[drumjunky91]

I have a some brass that I have fireformed for my rifle and shot twice prior to this round. I found myself on the edge of pressure and ended up with some fairly deep ejector marks and swipes. In the past I just reload them again and keep on hammering, but I would have to think that this would technically have to mess with your headspacing slightly. And also when clambering a round, the brass technically won't be fully supported since it will be sitting on that tiny raised ejector spot.

I suppose my question is - Is this an issue that I need to correct, and if so, how are you guys going about correcting ejector marks? The brass is not trashed by any means, just letting my curiosity get the best of me.

I'm sorry if this seems like a very novice question but I can't seem to find a clear answer.

 

[dok7mm]

It could be several things: over charging, failure to keep liquid out of chamber after cleaning & lube residue on cases and heavy ejector spring with possible ejector face not smooth.

More likely over charging ?????

 

[drumjunky91]

It could be several things: over charging, failure to keep liquid out of chamber after cleaning & lube residue on cases and heavy ejector spring with possible ejector face not smooth.

More likely over charging ?????

Sorry, I guess my wording could've been better. I'm not looking for the cause of pressure, I know I was loaded a little hot. My question is now that there is a raised ejector mark on my headstamp, are you guys sanding them flat before reloading or just reloading and firing them? I would have to imagine that the cartridge is technically not sitting flat against the bolt face anymore with a raised ejector mark stamped into the headstamp of the brass. I'm wondering if that can cause further issues.

 

[dok7mm]

Sorry, can't help you on that,

 

[slv hunter]

I've never worried about it. Load them and fire them just like you have in the past.

 

[Stammster2]

320 grit sand paper
Circular motion of case head on a flat surface
Just enough to remove the raised bit.

Isolate lot, and inspect for other issues after each addition firing (loose primer pockets, excess OD at web, etc.)

You might not think the brass is trashed, but don't hesitate to trash it.

 

[jraulsten]

Probably not what you want to hear, but I would trash it......

 

[baldhunter]

I've personally loaded brass with multiple ejector marks without any problems.If the brass is measured with a mic.,it probably will show a fair amount of case head expansion too.The brass I was using at that time was either Winchester or Remington.Even though I was getting ejector marks on the headstamps,I still had tight primer pockets.Fast forward to more recent times,I worked up some loads using Remington and Winchester brass for a rifle that were giving me good accuracy and velocity.I tried those same loads with Norma brass and was getting ejector marks and loose primer pockets.I checked the volume of the case with ball powder.The Winchester case held the least amount.The Remington case held about one more grain and the Norma held about two grains more.I backed off the loads about a grain and the ejector marks stopped on the Norma brass.After that,I backed off another grain to keep my Norma brass from getting over pressured.This showed me that the Norma brass was soft,not only at the case neck and shoulder,but throughout the whole case.I can easily run my loads up with the Winchester and Remington brass and get around a 100fps more,but it's probably better to use the Norma brass as my pressure indicator and know my loads are running at a safer pressure.

 

[Beluebow]

Load and shoot...Chance of the stamp in the exact same place would be slim.

 

[yobuck]

Many years back i was using a 30x378 Wetherby built by the late Howard Wolfe.
I was using standard 378 Wetherby brass necked down by just running them thru a 30x378 die.
That was of coarse prior to the 30x378 being a factory round.
Anyway i bought some new brass, and found that it wouldnt chamber in my gun.
So i called Howard, and he said yes the new brass is slightly different and wont chamber in my guns.
He then asked me if i had a drill press, which i did.
He said just chuck them up in the drill press and use fine grit emory cloth to polish the head down some.
Keep trying them in the gun till the bolt closes and you will be fine.
By the time i was finished you couldnt read the name off the head of those cases, but they worked just fine.
Wetherby eventually got that issue straightened out.
Point is that i wouldnt hesitate to just polish those burrs off that brass. Just the raised burrs mind you, not the whole name like i did.

 

[Joefrazell]

Don't waste your time. Shoot the brass. It's probably gunna loose primer pockets soon anyways. If it bothers you that much get new brass

 

[Stammster2]

BTW, if you have "fairly deep ejector marks and swipes", you are not on the edge of pressure - you're over it (by at least 6-10k psi depending on brass mfg and caliber).

 

[nksmfamjp]

I have filed rim burrs on 223 for feeding, but never for pressure. That said, the smart folks say we should cull those.

i keep running them, but I'm average.

 

[Rich Coyle]

I use a Wilson case trimmer and just put the head against the cutter. I discovered with side by side shooting the cleaned up heads produced measurably better accuracy.