Didn't Know Where To Post This.....Stock Painting

I used some of this on a project bicycle: http://www.pettitpaint.com/media/4209/pettit-paint-topside-paint-color-chart.pdf , got it from amazon. I've been impressed with it so far. It is not a high gloss, but it is glossy so a scuffing or a matte clear top coat or both would be desirable. For the first week or so I could dig a finger nail into it, but now it is hard and it feels like you aren't going to hurt it with anything less than a file.

snip.....
The plastic sleeve that comes on barrels works for a nice pattern .....
A good friend of mine uses those for that. Can buy it (I know, huh?!?!?!) from packaging suppliers like Uline too.
 
I have used krylon for sponge jobs then rolled on 2 part clear epoxy. A little scotchbrite to knock down the sheen and you're good. Cheap
Why roll on? I'm about to paint a wood one, is why I ask! I'm thinking sand smooth. sanding sealer. Sand smooth. Sanding sealer again. Automotive Primer. Sand smooth. Spray color. Sand/buff. Clean with iso alcohol, brush on 2 part epoxy, but you have me thinking..,.
 
Lot of good info, seems i was right, epoxy will be the toughest for real hard woods use. Will spray on and harden between coats, never liked spray cans they aren't as dependable for spray pattern or pressure and don't go far. I'm tired of the color and web pattern but both my stocks have been given the full torture test in the alders and spruce and have not one scratch in 12 and 15 year use. Thats what I want for the new paint jobs, got a plan now. Many good looking paint job's and some great ideas.
 
Duracoat clear is easy to spray and is an epoxy type coating. It comes in matte and semigloss. Once cured it's pretty scratch resistant.
Shep
 
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My first try at camo paint, krylon and some gutter mesh for the pattern, tried to get close to my belt pattern. Definitely add matte clear coat or it with scratch easily.
 
You guys ever see a real sniper rifle from the army. Not one you can buy one they use. There are so many layers of paint covering scratches that they start having a texture.
 
I rolled it on because I was going to knock the gloss off anyway with scotchbrite. I don't care for cleaning my spray guns unless I'm cerakoting. I'm cheap which is why I use krylon with an epoxy coat
 
The plastic sleeve that comes on barrels works for a nice pattern and what I use mostly is plastic mesh from a landscape place. The bricks used for patios have a plastic sleeve between them. They are about 3 ft by 4ft wide and it's a heavy mesh. I'm sure you could get it for free. Only the top coat has to be real durable. I spray imron on mine from Dupont.
Shep
NOW that is top of the line CLEAR COAT,,,,hands down.
 
Just don't even think about spraying it without positive ventilation. Friend of mine got severe neurological damage from a malfunctioning mask. He worked auto body. On wood stocks I thin it out and brush it on. Then spray the last coats. It is extremely tough finish. Sprayed my 1000yd bench gun with it.
 

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This has been a good read, lots of experience here.
Maybe someone can help with my problem.
I have a Browning Titanium 300wsm that has a camo pattern on a synthetic stock. It has only ever been cleaned with water on a rag and has gone "sticky" to touch.
It seems as though the top coat has degenerated and i have tried, in a small area, to remove it with Metho, turps and thinners with no effect at all. I don't want to remove the camo pattern if possible.
How do i remove the "sticky" surface so i can put something like Durocote on it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Steve.
 
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