Choosing the LOP compromise for different shooting positions..?

I spend quite a bit of time setting up my LRH rifles for the best compromise of pull length, comb height, and grip angle. Over several years I have found that the most demanding LR shots have generally been taken from a prone position with F/R rifle support in colder weather using heavier clothing. This positiom/condition gets priority with eye relief, cheek weld, and a more vertical grip style that can offer an elbow down/straight wrist shooting position. Once this base set-up is determined, I will check the rifle for fit from more upright positions, less clothing, etc, and make small adjustments as necessary. I've found that I usually have enough margin in the adjustment range to maintain the right prone condition, while accommodating an upright shooting position. Concerning LOP, I would err on the side of being too short over too long.
 
Here is something to think about.

You can always shoot a "too short" LOP, but you flat can not shoot a "too long" LOP.
You can shoot with your eye "too far back" from the scope, you can not shoot with your eye "too close" to the eyepiece.

Conclusion? For a rifle that does not allow adjustments, set it up to have too shor LOP, and mount the scope a little too far forward.
 
Here is something to think about.

You can always shoot a "too short" LOP, but you flat can not shoot a "too long" LOP.
You can shoot with your eye "too far back" from the scope, you can not shoot with your eye "too close" to the eyepiece.

Conclusion? For a rifle that does not allow adjustments, set it up to have too shor LOP, and mount the scope a little too far forward.


I think you mean the other way around. If you shoot anything but a low recoiling rifle (Like the 223) with a too short length of pull, you will likely end up with a scope cut above the eye.

A good way to measure your length of pull is to lay a ruler or a rifle on your forearm and place it in the trigger finger with it bent as if you are pulling the trigger, and measure to the inside of your elbow. This will give you the average length of pull for your arm. then adjust this dimension for the different shooting positions as described in this thread.

Sometimes a simple change in recoil pad thickness is all it takes. The shortest length of pull for most adults is 13.5" youths are a different thing all together. Remember, the proper length of pull comes first and then you set the eye relief for your position it will be used in.

Best accuracy will be achieved if the Length of pull and eye relief is correct for your body.

J E CUSTOM
 
By "too far forward", I mean away from your face, or toward the front (muzzle) of the rifle.

The point of question as I understand it, is how to accomodate field expedient positions with a non-adjustable stock. I believe
I addressed that question correctly. Shorten your LOP, lenghten your eye relief. I didn't say how much, or how to measure it because thats going to depend on individual parameters, including how you shoot from your weak side. The only way to do it, is to try it, modify it, try it again.
 
I'm 5'7" for prone off bags or bipods I shoot long lop better than 15". The rifles I use for tracking or stalking are also longer than factory. I use a leather slip on pad over the factory pad. Move into the gun not move the gun into you and you will see longer is far better. Short lop cause high shots way too often when shooting at flushed game. I use a 760 for alot of days. I have moved the stock for 3/8 cast off. I replaced the original when I went to optical sights vs a peep to the new high comb. Unlike long range shooting/hunting the shots are close in thick cover with maybe 2 bounds by the animal to cover. If it was short I'd shoot over them most shots.
Practice mounting your rifle in a mirror in the clothes/jackets you'd wear. When I shot sporting clays this was part of the routine to get better. If you don't it really doesn't matter what your lop is. Once hurried you will lose time finding your sights. It might be the only shot you get that day if your stalking heavy cover
 
I have fabricated custom spacers for some of my rifles. They fit between the recoil pad and the butt of the stock. Some new rifles come with plastic spacers for adjustment. A scrap of old growth fir (or a hardwood of some kind), a belt sander, pencil and paint is all that is required, beyond the screwdriver to remove/reinstall the recoil pad.

I like to get the pad as perpendicular to the barrel as possible. Easy to test by resting the butt end of the rifle on a flat floor and observing how 'plumb' the barrel is.

I can accommodate different clothing/terrain this way. Most of my shooting is from sitting or standing, so I optimize LOP for that and just stuff a glove between my shoulder and the rifle for prone or uphill situations.

I find sitting to be the trickiest in terms of keeping the rifle level, and an adjustable stock provides the greatest benefit in this position. That's more of a rotational thing than LOP though.
 
As a starter, a custom gun stock maker on YouTube recommends putting a strip of wide tape to the right of the cheek plate; assuming here you're right handed. With a strait edge ruler vertical from the rearmost part of the trigger (where you would place your finger), measure 5 3/4" back and make a mark on the tape. Then, to aim at 45 degrees, stand in a corner with both shoulders touching walls and shoulder the rifle and point along the left wall plane. Put your head on the cheek rest and set up for good scope eye relief. Make a mark on tape where tip of nose is. Should line up with that 5 3/4" mark
 

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