Here's another good tool for sorting brass. I seperate all case mouths in piles of .001 and less, .001-.002, If it's good brass I can the rest. If it's not so good brass I run another pile up to .003. THe other steps Russ mentioned are good. I bought some Remington 300 RUM brass and it is crap. I guess I got spoiled on Norma and Lapua but I'll get this to work. It's just back to basics and more prep time. But it's still crap!
Using a neck turning tool to reduce the neck wall thickness to a specified amount. This is not usually done for a factory barrel and chamber.With a factory chamber the tool can be used to clean up 80 or 90 percent of the neck wall so the wall thickness is even so that the bullet will be somewhat centered. If you measure neck wall thickness at different places around the neck and get different thicknesses then you can remove just enough material to even the thickness out.
Some target shooters turn their necks to a certain thickness so that each cartridge requires the same amount of pressure to release the bullet when the gun is fired. Some have their rifles set up for a no turn neck. This is why I marked neck turning as optional, take your pick.
I see so its not as critical as the other things listed. Well I guess im going to start doing everything except neck turning. Its one less thing to worry about as far as accuracy is concerned. Thanks guys
The only thing I do is clean up the necks to even them out for my factory rifles. If you are shooting targets or need extreme accuracy it might be worth while for short range but I can't read the wind well enough at long range to tell the difference with my rifles. If it makes you feel better do it or not, up to you.