Case anealing question - how long in the flame?

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by dwm, Mar 1, 2004.

  1. dwm

    dwm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    739
    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2003
    How long do you leave the cases in the flame if they are in a water bath? How can you tell how hot they are?

    I am using a regular propane torch.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Thanks,

    Doug

    [ 03-01-2004: Message edited by: dwm ]
     
  2. LDO

    LDO Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    251
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2003
    in order to really see the necks change color you need dim light.put just enough heat to get them a maroon color,if you see orange you are over heating the cases.cant tell you how long,it is rather dependent on "how" and with what you are applying the heat.there is a very good thread at benchrest.com-just do a search on-annealing-my-2-dave
     
  3. Sako7STW

    Sako7STW Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    433
    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2004
    My question is when do you know it is time to aneal?
     
  4. dbhostler

    dbhostler Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    837
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2002
    There is a very good article on annealing in Handloader Number 151. I anneal with just the light of the torch. The case will incandesce at about 960 degrees F with a faint red glow. That's when I stop rotating with my fingers and set it down on the cement floor to cool.
    The recommendation in this article was to anneal after 35 reloadings and sooner than that will not hurt anything.
    db
     
  5. MAX

    MAX Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    263
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2001
    My que is when the cases fail to size properly, in other words, when the neck tension gets sloppy. I tried the torch and found no happiness. Overheating leads to brass too soft, which may cause difficulty in extracting, which may cause you to think your loads are too hot...it goes on and on. [​IMG] My method involves a small oil lamp and a damp rag. Roll the case as it heats, you may or may not see the color change mentioned above. When the cloth gives a satisfying hiss when you wipe the soot off, you're pretty close on temperature. They seldom get more than warm to the touch in the hand that holds them. My experience is with small to medium size cases, and I do NOT know if this method will work on the large ones common to the forum. Neck walls are thicker, circumference bigger.

    More scientific methodology involves heat crayons which can be found a welding supply places. I don't know the proper temp range for them, sorry. Hornady introduced an annealing kit a few years back that may still be available. Luck.
     
  6. Mysticplayer

    Mysticplayer Writers Guild

    Messages:
    1,459
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2001
    I have just done some RUM brass and use the temp paint from Tempilac (475F). That is the level that is used in the Hornady kit. This paint is readily available from a welding supply house.

    You just brush on a bit below the shoulder, heat the necks and the paint will melt when the right temp is reached. I let it sit at that temp for a few seconds then dump into water.

    The coloration looks right but I haven't shot the brass yet. Since Hornady is using this temp, it is good enough for me.

    Jerry