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can a loaded round be resized?

budlight

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Sep 30, 2004
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I full length resized and loaded on a friends dillion 650. So I ended up with a 2500+ loads that the bolt can't close. It was not over cammed to actually full length resize. It appears the shoulder or even the mid case is just a few 10 thousants of an inch off.

They actually feed in a 5.56 nato chamber. But they don't fit in my Wylde or my match 223 AR's

Somebody told me about redding bushed dies and setting it up with cases that fit and then resize these loaded rounds.


I've even considered maybe just getting a 5.56 nato reamer and converting my Wylde chamber to accommodate these rounds
 
Personally I would not try to resize loaded rounds. There may be a safe way but I just don't know of one.
 
Spend $30 on Wilson case guage and see if they fit. That will tell you a lot and point out the troubled areas.

Take a couple apart and see exactly where the sizing issue is IF it is that at all.

Is the bullets seated too long for the throat?

Is this surplus brass you bought? Could have been fired in a machine gun with extra room in the chamber has widened out.

I use a small base die for all ammo for AR's, just to play it safe from things like that.

All possibilities.
 
You make my point. If you have a Wylde, 5.56 and .223 will shoot in your barrel. I do not think you want to rechamber down to 5.56...even if you can.
 
And there is not a chance in Hades that I'd ever try to resize a fully loaded round.


Really............ It takes resistance to build pressure. A redding body die or even a die with the center parts removed is just open on the top. I don't plan on looking down the hole either. I don't look in case seating primers either.

But then again I'm formerly EOD and it bothered me a lot more to be digging up unexploded 105 rounds.
 
"NO"

You have two choices, Pull the bullets and dump the powder.(You can save it and re measure it back in the case with the same weight as loaded before) but don't try to identify it, remove the decapping pin and you can re size it and reload it. This is what I would do if I had 1 or 200 rounds, but with 2500 no.

The other thing you could do is re ream the chamber to fit the round, bur I would have a reamer made to change only the area that needs changing Like neck length or neck diameter so it would not keep you from using other ammo in the future.

There is one other option and probably the best, Sell the ammo to someone that has a rifle that it will work in even If you take a small loss on the ammo it will be cheaper in the long run.

J E CUSTOM
 
I already decided to go the 5.56 reamer route to fix my 223 Wylde 20 inch and I'm looking for a stainless 18 -20 inch in 5.56 with 1:9 twist.

I do have the .223 Dillion case gauge and I ran a dial indicator over the rounds and they have @ .002 to long. So I have been looking at finishing reamers
 
I solved the problem..... I just ordered a 5.56 NATO 20 inch 1:9 stainless threadless barrel and all the parts to make a complete upper. I will just use it to burn up bullets and maybe buy another lower later.
 
good god this is beyond a dumb post and not because of the original question which is dumb enough. Another person reloading through guessing and not even checking the basics. Now I don't want to go on a rant here but COME ON MAN! Use the tools available to measure your fired cases to your resized and use a damned bump guage. Also measure seating depth for your bullet with the chamber - who knows how well the chamber was cut and to what tolerances and throat length. Measure, do not guess. This is not hard stuff to do and soo many folks just are too lazy or cheap to get the right tools. This is very important in an ar as most folks want them reliable. Many builders- err parts assemblers- have no real clue how to properly build one or even use a properly headspaced bolt for the barrel.
Sorry if this is a bit harsh, but the first thing you always do before reloading is make sure proper headspacing and determine where each bullet you reload for hits the lans of your particular chamber. Without doing that, reloading is a guessing game.
 
good god this is beyond a dumb post and not because of the original question which is dumb enough. Another person reloading through guessing and not even checking the basics. Now I don't want to go on a rant here but COME ON MAN! Use the tools available to measure your fired cases to your resized and use a damned bump guage. Also measure seating depth for your bullet with the chamber - who knows how well the chamber was cut and to what tolerances and throat length. Measure, do not guess. This is not hard stuff to do and soo many folks just are too lazy or cheap to get the right tools. This is very important in an ar as most folks want them reliable. Many builders- err parts assemblers- have no real clue how to properly build one or even use a properly headspaced bolt for the barrel.
Sorry if this is a bit harsh, but the first thing you always do before reloading is make sure proper headspacing and determine where each bullet you reload for hits the lans of your particular chamber. Without doing that, reloading is a guessing game.

I guess that you don't understand...... This case doesn't even have a bullet in it. It has just been trimmed to 1.745 then resized and primed. In this Dillon .223 case gauge you can see it does not go down all the way the shoulder to case end even full length resized and over cammed in a RCBS rock crusher is off by a few .001's. These 5.56 are not SAAMI spec like .223

Very limited of you to think about bullet seating depth. It actually comes out that trying to use 5.56 stamped brass is the problem. I bought 1000's of range brass and did not sort them originally. Even my competition .223 dies can't resize them to fit quality tight chambers. Super sloppy 5.56 military chambered barrels work just fine with all those reloaded rounds. It was a live and learn.

I just bought a crappy mil spec 20 inch to use them up...... So sleep better tonight!

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