Can/should my buddy's AR .223 be converted to Wylde?

Chrsm

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The ONLY Ar15 jamb problems I have ever personally seen that were traced to a chamber, was on a barrel that was marked "223 Match". I knew this was a tight chamber, and it was CLEAR that 556 should NOT be fired in it. However even 223, if brass was not sized with a small base die every time, I'd get jams......most others can be traced and eliminated like the others have said.

Del2les replied as I was typing.....What he said
Instead of buying a short base die. I’ve resorted in taking a couple thousands off a extra shell holder. Had to do this in 223 and 308 so far! Beats buying a new die! Also tight chambers. Fixed
 

ntsqd

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Its pretty simple to rebarell an ar15 at home probably cheaper too if you really want to replace it. I own ars in 223wylde, 5.56nato, and 223 cle. Surplus 5.56 works in all of them as does factory 223.
This is how I'd fix the problem. The minimum tooling needed to do the job isn't too bad to purchase. Off the top of my head:

Dial or digital calipers.

Upper holding fixture (I prefer the Magpul tool over those that pin the upper to an extrusion.)

Forearm removal tools: Usually these are hex keys, but can be torx for aftermarket floating forearms. For non-floating, spring retained original type the most useful tool that I've found is a bucket full of expletives, you'll use most of them. You'll also need a large snap-ring expanding plier if you're going to move to a decent forearm.

Barrel nut wrench (I have a massive investment cast wrench, but the cheap plate wrenches work well enough) -> Need a torque wrench for final tightening. I prefer a Beam type myself, but an accurate one is more important than which type.

Gas block removal tool(s) (If pinned-on they are TAPERED pins, measure the exposed ends to determine which direction to drive them out. Otherwise, a hex key or possibly a Torx key.) I prefer to pull the gas tube with the gas block if I'm going to reuse both. No point in taking them apart just to put them back together.

I'll suggest any of Zediker's or Sweaney's books on assembling AR's as a reference manual.
 

DirectDrive

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I've hand reamed a couple of 223 Match chambers to Wylde, and it was a fairly simple process. There are several possible reasons 5.56 ammo "jams" in a tight 223 chamber, and not all of them are chamber related. 5.56 ammo can vary considerably in acceptable dimensions, so I would suggest trying several manufactures' ammo first. I have a Nat'l Match 223 match chamber that does not like to feed brass that has not been fully resized in a small base die and then trimmed to minimum neck length. It is a tack driver, but somewhat finicky in its feeding. But, it is the spec I wanted for its intended purpose.
Good post.
From the minute I read this thread, I thought it would probably be a hand-ream fix.
Instead, we're talking about changing barrels, re-chambering, barrel set-back etc etc.
LOL

Good advice on checking with known-good 5.56 ammo.
Here we are talking Lake City XM193 or Lake City M855
That is "real" 5.56 ammo
 

ntsqd

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I'd rather buy a new AR barrel from a known to be good source (there are many such options) and fit it than try to hand ream the chamber to make it work. I am more than capable of the hand work and have no worries about any safety related issues, but I don't own such a reamer and given the price of even just merely good AR barrels I really wouldn't want to. I also have to assume that the OP's friend is not capable of such work. So while it might be the most direct method, it quite likely is beyond him. Changing an AR barrel, OTOH, is something that someone reasonably handy can tackle
 

SumTingWong

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Lots of good info.
The jam problem is during extraction. It fires, but then jams; only with 5.56. I can't remember the brand, but it was a big box name.
He doesn't use the gun that often (2 times, maybe, per year) so I'm going to help him clean/lube it first, and try with some other ammo.

The reason I asked about reaming it to Wylde spec's is that I was thinking it was somewhat simple, cost-effective, and may result in better performance.

I'm capable of learning how to do it. I've got over 20k in tools, but they're mostly automotive/motorcycle/home. So I'd need to acquire the specifics required for this job, and then learn the procedure. The hard part is finding the time. A few years ago I decided to pull my Oberheim keyboards out of storage and repair them. I had to buy an oscilloscope, learn IC chip diagnostic procedures, and trace/replace many parts. I did it, but it took months of time.

I love guns, so I may delve. I've been holding off reloading, cuz not sure if I wanna go down that rabbit hole yet, but I keep getting tempted, lol.
This thread overlaps with another I posted several days ago about suggestions for my first yote gun, and I may just break down and build my first AR.
I'd really like to get either a Rainier or WOA upper, and build the rest, but there's SO many choices. But I digress...

So, I'll see my buddy in a few weeks, and do the clean/lube avenue with different ammo, and see what shakes loose.

@ntsqd - Thanks for the detailed links. I have all the tools (digital torque wrenches, calipers, etc) except the specific ones, but I may acquire the gun-specific ones, as I think I have one drawer in my rollaway that needs some fillin'.
 

ntsqd

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...... as I think I have one drawer in my rollaway that needs some fillin'.
That's terrible! You should fix that ASAP!

You're welcome.

Wish that I could recall where I sourced that barrel nut wrench from. Might try Brownells, see what they have. Other guesses are Primary Arms or Rainier. It is big and burly enough that I rarely need anything more to loosen a barrel nut. The Magpul holder is just about everywhere, although Gieselle offers a tool that works similarly in that both engage the barrel shroud locking lugs so that you're not torquing on the upper receiver directly. There is a little bit of torque in the upper receiver during barrel nut tightening when using these tools, but it is limited to within just the threaded spigot.

If it is decided to first try hand turning a chamber reamer (you can rent them) in the existing barrel I will suggest that you'll still want to pull the barrel out of the upper receiver as doing so will make the process much easier.
 

DirectDrive

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I'd rather buy a new AR barrel from a known to be good source (there are many such options) and fit it than try to hand ream the chamber to make it work. I am more than capable of the hand work and have no worries about any safety related issues, but I don't own such a reamer and given the price of even just merely good AR barrels I really wouldn't want to. I also have to assume that the OP's friend is not capable of such work. So while it might be the most direct method, it quite likely is beyond him. Changing an AR barrel, OTOH, is something that someone reasonably handy can tackle
Everyone has their own ideas on how best to do things.
Myself, I'd never volunteer for a barrel change until other items (as posted above) were thoroughly checked out.

DD
3 AR scratch builds thus far
.223 Wylde
6.8 SPC
9mmAR
.458 SOCOM (next)
 

DarryH

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Omaha, Nebraska area
I have NEVER had a .223 marked gun that did NOT chamber 5.56 easily. Back in the days before we were so "enlightened" we shot the crap out of our .223 guns but with 5.56 ammo. Never a problem. I could see a possible issue if it is a match chamber, but my match chamber fits 5.56 fine. Maybe the chamber is on the very tight end spec-wise??
 

Wolf01

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The barrel on his rifle should be stamped with the chambering (should have the twist rate as well), very few ARs have been produced in strictly .223 rem chamberings (but they are out there). He may have an issue with the chamber itself. 5.56 and .223 Wylde barrels will both shoot 5.56 NATO and .223 Rem, the Wylde supposedly is more accurate (especially with .223 rem load specs) from what I understand. Your friend may just have an issue with his chamber/feed ramps.

Rebarreling an AR is very simple, and will more than likely be the same cost or cheaper than having the current barrel reamed.
If it says 223 /556 it will take both. If it is 223 only it can be given wild chamber.
 

264MHC

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If it only jams with 5.56 ammo, it could just be over gassed. 5.56 ammo being higher pressure may be causing the bolt to unlock too early, causing extraction/ejection issues. If the ammo chambers and ejects fine cycling by hand (muzzle pointed in a safe direction), but only hangs up upon firing, I would bet this is the case. If that is the problem, a heavier buffer, stiffer spring, or adjustable gas block will be the answer. The buffer is probably the easiest to try. If is has a carbine receiver extension, the standard carbine buffer weighs 3.0oz. Going to an H1 3.8oz, or H2 4.3 oz buffer will slow down the cycle and help tremendously. If it has an A2 Rifle extension, then it has a rifle buffer 5.2oz and there’s not really any options to change to. Changing the spring to a Springco Green or JP polished rifle spring might help, but an adjustable gas block would be the best answer here.
 

Ckgworks

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It doesn't necessarily make it shoot "better" but it makes it shoot a wider variety of bullets "better" if that makes any sense......I guess I look at it as more universal. One of my match barrels shoots 69 grain bullets so well it won't be changed, but due to the throat, certain bullet shapes are shoved into the case too far.....A Wylde chamber would probably shoot all of the projectiles good.....
I still say look into what's causing the issues before changing the chamber..
 

TimberWalker

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Feb 14, 2021
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Missouri
If it says 223 /556 it will take both. If it is 223 only it can be given wild chamber.

Not sure what that has to do with my post, I was comparing strictly between 5.56 and Wylde barrels and stated that you have free reign to shoot .223 and 5.56 in them.
 

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