Can/should my buddy's AR .223 be converted to Wylde?

Thanks. My confusion stems from a conversation I had yesterday with a gunsmith. He was an older gentleman, and came highly recommended by several gunshops in the area. After speaking with him, I knew he had experience BUT, I think he was unfamiliar with the Wylde chambering, as I asked him if he could ream my friends .223, and he explained there was no point, and proceeded to embellish. I had the data with me, and explained about the .2240 freebore, and he contemplated the info, but still saw no major advantage.

He was nice about it, and I wouldn't hesitate to use for certain services, but I think that since he's retired, and has no need to keep up with the latest and greatest, he just had no experience with Wylde.

That was the reason for my questioning the difference a few posts ago.
 
Thanks. My confusion stems from a conversation I had yesterday with a gunsmith. He was an older gentleman, and came highly recommended by several gunshops in the area. After speaking with him, I knew he had experience BUT, I think he was unfamiliar with the Wylde chambering, as I asked him if he could ream my friends .223, and he explained there was no point, and proceeded to embellish. I had the data with me, and explained about the .2240 freebore, and he contemplated the info, but still saw no major advantage.

He was nice about it, and I wouldn't hesitate to use for certain services, but I think that since he's retired, and has no need to keep up with the latest and greatest, he just had no experience with Wylde.

That was the reason for my questioning the difference a few posts ago.
You want to walk away from that situation.
Some traditional gunsmiths are not Black Rifle competent.
And vice-versa.

It's a specialty.
I recommend contacting WOA (see form above) for the real answers.
 
My buddy has an older version of this rifle:

The website says it fits .223 and 5.56, but I think he has an older model that is not the same spec, as 5.56 jams in his gun, which is obviously unsafe.

I've read that it feasible to send a .223 out to a smith, and have him machine it to a .223 Wylde.

Anyone know if that is possible and, if so, does he need to find someone super skilled, or is it a fairly straight forward process that can be done my most shops?
The barrel on his rifle should be stamped with the chambering (should have the twist rate as well), very few ARs have been produced in strictly .223 rem chamberings (but they are out there). He may have an issue with the chamber itself. 5.56 and .223 Wylde barrels will both shoot 5.56 NATO and .223 Rem, the Wylde supposedly is more accurate (especially with .223 rem load specs) from what I understand. Your friend may just have an issue with his chamber/feed ramps.

Rebarreling an AR is very simple, and will more than likely be the same cost or cheaper than having the current barrel reamed.
 
For your laughs and giggles

REAMER6.png
 
I looked at several manufacturer's sites, and found discrepancies between them. For example, this one:

223wylde.png



Has MANY different spec's than the diagram you posted. Some are minor (.0005) and some, like the base diameter, are over .003 difference.
Or am I missing something?
 
I looked at several manufacturer's sites, and found discrepancies between them. For example, this one:

View attachment 255579


Has MANY different spec's than the diagram you posted. Some are minor (.0005) and some, like the base diameter, are over .003 difference.
Or am I missing something?

You are not missing anything. There are gazillion variations out there. Then there are tolerances. In my garage alone there are 8 different 223 reamers I use, from zero freebore length to 0.170, freebore diameters from 0.2240, to 0.2245, necks from .250 to .2558 (the original Wylde)

Buy the reamer you want and use it for all your barrels.
 
I bought an upper with a 20" 556 heavy barrel and could not get better than 3 moa. Back when things were less expensive (2 to 3 years ago) I bought a 20" 223 Wylde heavy barrel on sale for $60. It shoots slightly better than moa. So you might just be better off to buy a new barrel and install it yourself or get someone that works on AR platform rifles to install it for you. Go to YouTube and watch several videos to learn how. It's not a difficult process. Good luck.
 
It is my understanding that the outside dimensions of the brass is virtually the same, the difference is in the throat our free bore. And how mill spec is loaded with bullets of rounded ogives that causes higher pressure in 223. Now that said the wylde handles both. If the barrel was mind I would just hand load for it.
 
I think there is tis in thinking the Wylde will completely recut the current chamber. Surely WOA would know that answer, but not without measuring what you have.

A better question is what is a "jam"? FTF, FTE, or something else. Be as specific as possible. IME, most jamming AR problems are gas or ammo quality problems, but there are other more specific problems that can happen.

To diagnose, start with a clean gun, including BCG. Lube with oil/clp only. Check extractor for movement and spring force. Check ejector for movement and spring force. Compare to a working gun.

Then check bolt lock and unlock by hand for smoothness and low force.

Then look at the gas block. Is it straight up and down? Is it against the barrel shoulder?

Now fire the rifle. Any problems? What?
 
I've hand reamed a couple of 223 Match chambers to Wylde, and it was a fairly simple process. There are several possible reasons 5.56 ammo "jams" in a tight 223 chamber, and not all of them are chamber related. 5.56 ammo can vary considerably in acceptable dimensions, so I would suggest trying several manufactures' ammo first. I have a Nat'l Match 223 match chamber that does not like to feed brass that has not been fully resized in a small base die and then trimmed to minimum neck length. It is a tack driver, but somewhat finicky in its feeding. But, it is the spec I wanted for its intended purpose.
 
The ONLY Ar15 jamb problems I have ever personally seen that were traced to a chamber, was on a barrel that was marked "223 Match". I knew this was a tight chamber, and it was CLEAR that 556 should NOT be fired in it. However even 223, if brass was not sized with a small base die every time, I'd get jams......most others can be traced and eliminated like the others have said.

Del2les replied as I was typing.....What he said
 
Warning! This thread is more than 4 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top