nube2.0
Well-Known Member
This is extremely incorrect
Bubble level?
- Thread starter wilkup
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Continuation of post 42. Next to last sentence.
If the wise old monkey from the Lion King shows up and starts telling you, LOOK BEYOND WHAT YOU SEE! You MIGHT just find the answer there! But you will KNOW the drink is working!
If the wise old monkey from the Lion King shows up and starts telling you, LOOK BEYOND WHAT YOU SEE! You MIGHT just find the answer there! But you will KNOW the drink is working!
Bitteroot
Well-Known Member
Only to you.
As long as your action and scope are level during install it's fine. Scopes only adjust up down left and right, they don't move at angles.
But if a man can't look through a scope an estimate a level crosshair when shooting than maybe a level is the solution for that person.
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nube2.0
Well-Known Member
Good luck repeating what you did when you mounted your scope
Especially if your hunting in the mountains
Bitteroot
Well-Known Member
Thank you, I really haven't had any problems in or out of the mountains, I will add that each to their own and I certainly don't fault a guy for his way of doing things or opinion as you have towards me.
I'll keep that in mind moving forward.
B
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Bitterroot, I cut up a good bit on here but it's mostly in fun.
Honestly, and I got this from my mother, I cannot stand a crooked reticle. It nags me in the back of my head until I get it right. That may be why so many folks want me to mount their optics. But there are a lot of variables, many of which I run into regularly. I shoot holdover with thermal a lot. It matters there greatly in all types of scopes.
Things I run into pretty regularly. Some of these are not in high dollar bench rest guns. Or not so common in high dollar builds. They are hunting guns primarily but set up to run at longer ranges where holdover or dialing are used. Also, if you are on a range where the target butts are squared and level it's easy to level the reticle to the target. Leveling on a game animal on sloping terrain is not so easy. There, a consistent shoulder pocket and mount come into the equation and a level truly helps.
Commonly seen issues.
1. Rings that are not true and/or need to be lapped. Even some of the really good ones.
2. Base holes not true to barrel. Windage capable rings or bases required to mount scope perfectly aligned with bore. I want my windage dead center of its adjustment range.
3. Reticle not square to adjustment knobs. Yes you can still get the reticle perfectly vertical with a plumb line but it still irks me to no end. And this rules out leveling anything with a level on the adjustment knobs.
4. Vertical line in scope is visibly crooked. I don't see this much but I have seen it and it drives me nuts. I have a 39 year old Kahles with this issue. Holdover is compromised to an extent. But I mostly shot it to 450 max.
5. Action canted in stock. I bought Stocky's Desert Rose stock with an aluminum bedding block that had this problem. I sent it back. It wasn't right. The issue with this problem is you have to compromise your natural gun mount and shoulder pocket position for the reticle to be level with the world. ARs with excess upper/lower play can definitely have this problem. I've learned fitting shotguns. People don't shoot as well when they have to fight a gun and compromise their natural grooved mount. That can really carry over into shooting rifles from field positions on the fly.
This is just my humble opinion based on what I have seen hunting, mounting scopes, shooting from field positions, and shooting off of a bench. No arguing intended. I'm here to learn and could be dead wrong.
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Personally, I like the bubble levels. I believe they help me because I am not one of those people that can just eyeball something and see it level or plumb. My father-in-law could follow a floor joist under a sheet of plywood with no line on the plywood. I am not that man. He would look over at me and tell me I was running my screws in crooked, but they looked straight to me. I guess you could say I have a natural cant lol. I can look at the bubble in the field or off the bench and I almost always have to correct, but with that correction I hit what I'm shooting at most of the time, and that includes distance. I am amazed how much easier it is to hit a target at 800 yards compared to 1,000. You would think that 200 yards wouldn't make any difference, and maybe it's just in my head, but I don't have much trouble missing out there.
nube2.0
Well-Known Member
The simplest and cheapest tool to improve your accuracy in the field at long range is a level
There are too many heroes that think they are an expert and I don't need that, I know what level is
Those guys miss or wound far more animals than anyone with a level
I much prefer the Flatline off the left side of the scope tube, forward of the parallax knob. It's very easy to check. without loss of the head position, with the secondary vision when acquiring the target through the scope. .
I'm going to have to try that. All mine are behind the knob, and at times I have to move my head to get a good look at it.
Me too....I cant ..run and jump like I used too
I cant work on my knees anymore
I cant remember were I left my glasses
I just cant.....
You think
? Defeats the purpose if you have to move your head....too much play returning to the glass...- Joined
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My level is set up the exact same way as Greyfox. I just look with the left eye. Right eye and head never move. Not a problem.
It works, I don't move much, and I go back and forth and back and forth until it's steady. Even if I'm shooting at game, I don't rush shots at distance. Generally, no need to, and I'm not comfortable rushing past 3-400 yards, and I don't notice much change until I get past that for cant. If a man gets still and squeezes the trigger as crazy as it sounds 3-400 yards are not hard shots to make.You think
