Brake kleen for carbon?

[ntsqd]

Retarded timing or to much overlap on a cam can cause a lot of reversion which will carbon up the carburetor, the black soot on the carb bores, fuel injection is even worse about carbon because there isn't any wet flow of fuel cleaning the intake and throttle body. Carburetor cleaner does a real good job of cleaning the carbon build up don't see why it wouldn't work for barrels.

Fundamental difference between the carbon build-up in an intake manifold and the build-up in a barrel. That in the barrel has been exposed to very high temperature and pressure (at the same time). The temps and pressures aren't in the same class, but think about how diamonds are supposedly formed.

Not saying it won't work, just that there is substantial difference in what the carbon has been exposed to.

 

[jrock]

I tried spraying a big muzzle brake with brake kleen and it didn't work well. I found that soaking a brake, or keeping it wet works far better than scrubbing it with a wet patch or trying to hose it off. I haven't tried carb cleaner but that works really well on related car parts. For muzzle brakes, I spray a bit of simple green let it soak for a few minutes and wipe it out with Qtips. I only use simple green on coated or stainless steel parts. It can damage paint and rust carbon steel quickly. I wouldn't recommend it in a barrel. I find most products, when left to soak, will take out tough carbon. It's just a matter of how much you want to spend, how long you can wait and if the product is safe to let it soak.

 

[JWels]

Just a cautionary word here. When it comes to carburetor cleaner there are two very different types. One comes in a spray can and is similar to lacquer thiner. I would feel comfortable using that on a rifle bore. The other type is an acid that comes in a gallon or larger can where you soak your parts. Plastic parts will disappear in that stuff and you can get burns from being in contact with it for too long. It may work on hard carbon but if you spill or splatter any on any other surface you may pay a high price for it. The two types are very different.

 

[Boatninja]

The sooner after shooting it is done the better, whatever method you use.
I am currently inserting one of the long handled Q-tip type swabs (Acadamy) soaked in Brake-Kleen just into the barrel until it hits the lands, as soon as I get home from shooting, then using a next-size-down caliber nylon bore brush to short stroke the same area after it soaks a bit, usually that same evening.

 

[Chokoloskee Joe]

I've only found two things that work to remove a carbon ring. CLR will work but it is corrosive and will remove bluing so you need to use a bore guide. It will not harm the bore but keep it away from the exterior of your rifle. If you have a hard carbon ring, this is a fast way to get rid of it. Pass a wet patch through the barrel and let soak for several hours. Repeat if necessary. Once the ring is gone, I use Bore Tech C4 Carbon cleaner as follows: I keep a bore mop of the correct size, bent at 90 degrees so that it is just long enough to extend just past the chamber, in a baggie soaked with Bore Tech. As soon as I finish shooting, I remove the bolt and insert the bore mop. When I get home, I'll run a couple of dry patches through the bore and that pretty much gets all the carbon out.

 

[SSG Graybush]

Anyone use this to get carbon out of your barrels?

I use Sweets 7.62, oops that's for copper

 

[sawzall]

Full time mechanic here…Brake cleaner in an aerosol can or pump up sprayer will not touch carbon. Some carb cleaners do slightly. Brake cleaner will pull every molecule of oil off any surface it washes so using it on firearms can cause flash rust almost instantly. I use it for washing out triggers and rifle actions that are not expediently field stripped for cleaning…lever actions and similar. Followed by a spray of G96 for lubrication and protection. As said earlier, seafoam original engine treatment will dissolve carbon. Works best if you plug the barrel and fill it, letting it sit for a while followed by scrubbing. Automatic transmission fluid will dissolve carbon as well if left soaking long enough. That's why Ed's Red is such a good product for cleaning and care. Keep brake cleaner and carb cleaner (and Ed's Red) away from plastic and finished wood stocks. Can melt plastics and wreck the finish on wood.

 

[C-130 Dude]

The sooner after shooting it is done the better, whatever method you use.
I am currently inserting one of the long handled Q-tip type swabs (Acadamy) soaked in Brake-Kleen just into the barrel until it hits the lands, as soon as I get home from shooting, then using a next-size-down caliber nylon bore brush to short stroke the same area after it soaks a bit, usually that same evening.

Good advise. I try to clean my equipment after I get home. But, if I can't, I will run some patch out through the bore and let it soak overnight. I don't like leaving it, it turns to concrete to quickly.

 

[colfaxent]

Actually, its varnish that gunks up carbs. Not to say that carb cleaner would not work, but just saying. Heads, valves tend to carbon up. Gear heads tend to clean that stuff with grinders and abrasives.

Hard carbon is well, pretty hard. I have difficulty thinking brake cleaner or carb cleaner will touch it. And I use both on other applications regularly. Brake cleaner is mostly a very efficient degreaser as that is the LAST think you want hanging around your brakes. Carb cleaner as noted tries to melt varnish, which is what dried out stale gasoline can leave behind, plugging little passages. It also basically blows out debris from said passages if you are lucky.....

Techs haven't really been grinding or blasting for many years. Newer additives and conditioners have been used for over 20 years. These new products clean carbon from valves and ports without any tear down. It's all performed while vehicle is running. Haven't used these in firearms but performs miracles on vehicles. Check out BG Products.

 

[meatyrem]

Anyone use this to get carbon out of your barrels?

I used it on the action of a 22 auto loader one time did not like the discoloration it gave to many parts

 

[sawzall]

Techs haven't really been grinding or blasting for many years. Newer additives and conditioners have been used for over 20 years. These new products clean carbon from valves and ports without any tear down. It's all performed while vehicle is running. Haven't used these in firearms but performs miracles on vehicles. Check out BG Products.

Actually, direct injection has made injector flushes obsolete. There's a resurgence of blasting to clean carbon from the backside of valves because they see no fuel now as the fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber like on diesels. There's a few products you can spray down your intake that works pretty good if some regularly, but when it gets bad enough to cause stumbling and misfires, disassembly and mechanical cleaning is necessary. I use the CRC GDI intake valve cleaner fairly often on my own vehicles.

 

[1mechanic]

Fundamental difference between the carbon build-up in an intake manifold and the build-up in a barrel. That in the barrel has been exposed to very high temperature and pressure (at the same time). The temps and pressures aren't in the same class, but think about how diamonds are supposedly formed.

Not saying it won't work, just that there is substantial difference in what the carbon has been exposed to.

Yes heat can make a big difference on how hard it will be to get out.

Reminds me of a shop teacher telling a science teacher that the science teachers claim oil and water don't mix was wrong and showed him a jar of engine oil mixed with water that when heat was applied it turned to a frothy milkshake looking substance that wouldn't separate.

 

[colfaxent]

Actually, direct injection has made injector flushes obsolete. There's a resurgence of blasting to clean carbon from the backside of valves because they see no fuel now as the fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber like on diesels. There's a few products you can spray down your intake that works pretty good if some regularly, but when it gets bad enough to cause stumbling and misfires, disassembly and mechanical cleaning is necessary. I use the CRC GDI intake valve cleaner fairly often on my own vehicles.

Yes, I wasn't referring ro injector cleaning. I was referring to Induction cleaning. Injectors don't get carbon fouled. But agree Direct Injection is causing worse carbon and tougher carbon because of extreme heat.

 

[Aziron]

Carburetor cleaner made for carbon removal.

As a life long mechanic, carb cleaner will remove carbon. It's not the best though. Kroil removes carbon better than anything I've ever used. Let it soak!