barrel fluting?

I am curious on why you want a fluted barrel? you mentioned that you want a barrel fluted or you are looking at a Sendero profile Proof barrel...

Fluting has no benefit, the weight savings are so minimal that the benefits don't really out weigh the costs. They also heat up quicker, thus causing a POI shift. I would avoid the fluting. I use a Sendero Proof Barrel, love it. Christensen Arms also makes some really good barrels that out perform Proof.

Bryan Litz has done some extensive testing on this subject.

Unless you want to be unique and or make your rifle look good, flute away. otherwise save the money on some good glass and skip the fluting.
 
I am curious on why you want a fluted barrel? you mentioned that you want a barrel fluted or you are looking at a Sendero profile.
Looking at the sendeo light but same thing.
I dont necessarily want a fluted barrel, just trying to figure out which is the most cost/weight savings route is.
If it is cheaper to buy a bartlein #3b and have it fluted , over buying a proof sender light and having the same weight barrel for less money, that's the route I'd be wanting to take.
BUT i dont know the actually weight savings of a spiral fluted barrel.
Fluting looks really cool but I dont need the cool factor, just trying to get to my end goal the easiest/most economical way possible.
If the proof light is the way to go, then that's how it'll have to be.
 
Most economical way to get near the 3lb mark, Buy unfuted Bruz #3 or Bartlein 2b. thirdgenerationshootingsuppy
 
Looking at the sendeo light but same thing.
I dont necessarily want a fluted barrel, just trying to figure out which is the most cost/weight savings route is.
If it is cheaper to buy a bartlein #3b and have it fluted , over buying a proof sender light and having the same weight barrel for less money, that's the route I'd be wanting to take.
BUT i dont know the actually weight savings of a spiral fluted barrel.
Fluting looks really cool but I dont need the cool factor, just trying to get to my end goal the easiest/most economical way possible.
If the proof light is the way to go, then that's how it'll have to be.
I recently spiral fluted a factory Tikka contoured barrel and shaved off 1/4 pound,
I've had 3 fluted barrels and I can tell you from personal experience that there were no down sides as far as accuracy and POI shift from heating up faster.
In fact many professionals claim that fluting increases surface area and thus has a slight cooling increase, I really haven't noticed either way as I'm a long range hunter shooting strings of 3 or less and not a match shooter. for $150 shaving off 1/4 lb on a light contour barrel is pretty good, combined with a light scope and talley rings it starts to add up.
 
Here's my tikka 6.5 Saum with fluted factory contour.
Barrel is 25"
20180619_060727.jpg
 
I am glad you and others have had good luck. I have also had had flutted barrels shoot well. I have had several that did not. ( flutted by some of the best )Please donot take my word for it. After the expense of the barrel,chambering,flutting ,coating and putting brakes on, you are ~$1200. Now spend time testing. If it doesn't shoot well, maybe your gunsmith takes his time testing, or because you just laid out 4,5,or 6k on your custom rifle why not $400 $600 on a Pro for load development. If it still does not shoot good call Krieger or Bartlein explain you have $1500 in a barrel and you are not satisfied with the accuracy. They will explain policy. I am a slow learner, I now buy them flutted from the manufacture or I do not flute. ( I am trying to help )
Question: Why will Kampfeld flute a Bartlein 2b, but Bartlein will not?


I am also one of those that had bad luck with fluted barrels and for years I wouldn't own one. After talking to my favorite barrel maker, and having him explain all Of the possible problems associated with fluting I understood why my experiences were bad.

He was so convincing that if everything was in place and done properly, fluting would not hurt accuracy. The problem with the process is that Many smiths "And" barrel makers don't take all the necessary steps to assure a proper job.

Proper heat treat must be done to remove all stresses, be it one or two treatments to reach a stress free state.

The next important issue that is often missed is the setup to flute. The barrel "Must" be supported as much as possible preventing the effects of tool push to assure uniform fluting width and depth. (After talking with the barrel maker I cut a cross section of one of the bad barrels that had been fluted and was shocked at the inconsistencies
I found)

Fluting is a nice touch for a custom but it comes with many risk. so if you can do without it "DO". If you want it anyway, have your barrel
maker do it when he builds the barrel and guaranty the quality of the finished barrel.

Structurally, a barrel is at its best with a straight taper. this doesn't mean that other barrel shapes are not just as good, it only means that the more you alter the basic shape, the more risk of something being less that perfect. Fluting is very invasive to a barrel design and should be a consideration before you commit to doing it.

A contoured barrel looks the best in my opinion but has more chances of inconsistent stress distribution during firing because of the change in diameter at critical structural points. Fluting, only add to the possibilities of something being less that it could be.

So fluting is not bad, if everything is done properly. But If any of the important steps are left out, they can be disappointing.

J E CUSTOM
 
J E Custom, do you think it makes a difference to have it fluted before the chamber is cut? I seem to remember reading somewhere that it was recommended to flute the barrel before the chamber is cut.
 
Another vote for Kampfeld Customs in Idaho, great guy to work with and exceptional service, my turn around was within 1 week! BTW, I had straight flutes done to a shillen heavy sporter and he reduced the weight 10 oz for me! Zero affect on precision, still 1/2 MOA when I do my part.
 
How long is your barrel? Was it the #4 magnum sporter weighing about 3lb 14oz? I have a med palma I've thought about fluting, but so far I don't think I'll shave as much weight as I'd like.
 
J E Custom, do you think it makes a difference to have it fluted before the chamber is cut? I seem to remember reading somewhere that it was recommended to flute the barrel before the chamber is cut.


Actually, I like to get the barrel fluted by the barrel maker and then check for straightness before I chamber it. This way i can check the finished product before spending time and money chambering it. In most cases the fluting cost less if the barrel maker does it and you don't risk voiding the warranty if someone else does it.

If it is not straight, I send it back with no loss in time and money, it is also a good way to check if the fluting was done correct.

Fluting should have no effect on the chamber because the flutes should not be in the shank area where the chamber will be.

After having the many problems with fluting in the past,I believe that holding the barrel maker responsible for all of the barrel work is the safest way, and if you have the tools to accurately check for straightness you at least know what you are starting with.

J E CUSTOM
 
+1 for Kampfeld Customs (Karl).
http://www.kampfeldcustom.com/

To save some $$$ and significant turn around time, I had the barrel shipped direct from Redhawk Rifles to Karl. Redhawk --> Karl --> Me.

Karl has done multiple barrels for me and my brother. All the rifles have shot very well. He's also done multiple complete builds for us. They also shoot very well.

Short Action Customs (SAC), uses Karl to flute their barrels.
 
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