Flute on cut rifle barrels, not button rifle barrels.
Barrel Fluting vs accuracy
- Thread starter Dnk9444
- Start date
4g64loser
Well-Known Member
This is what I have been told by a smith that I respect a great deal. So far he has been right.
flute before lapping
I've been told, read, and researched this:
- Barrel diameter must be sufficient to handle the fluting without warping the bore
- Single cut or button rifled barrels that get fluted deep enough need stress relief after the operation.
- Flutes have to be deep enough to do anything of benefit, or they are just cosmetic. This makes a lot of sense if you think in terms of an old school radiator. They wouldn't do so good dispersing the heat with shallow "fins".
- Flutes should not be directly across from one another, rather in odd numbers. Something to do with concentricity being supported in this fashion.
I think most fluting is cosmetic or upcharge gimmick. I got a couple barrels fluted, but the depth is woefully shallow, but the chicks dig it. However, I had Benchmark flute an MTU profile barrel and the things will swallow up a q-tip head and deepest I've seen on a fluted barrel outside the M242 25mm Bushmaster chain gun on a Bradley fighting vehicle.
Then comes the discussion on weather surface area vs sheer mass handles/dissipates heat better. I have one fluted barrel I swear creates mirage off the barrel rather quickly, and that is a great thing for the barrel, but then screws up my sight picture more. No free lunch I guess. lol
- Barrel diameter must be sufficient to handle the fluting without warping the bore
- Single cut or button rifled barrels that get fluted deep enough need stress relief after the operation.
- Flutes have to be deep enough to do anything of benefit, or they are just cosmetic. This makes a lot of sense if you think in terms of an old school radiator. They wouldn't do so good dispersing the heat with shallow "fins".
- Flutes should not be directly across from one another, rather in odd numbers. Something to do with concentricity being supported in this fashion.
I think most fluting is cosmetic or upcharge gimmick. I got a couple barrels fluted, but the depth is woefully shallow, but the chicks dig it. However, I had Benchmark flute an MTU profile barrel and the things will swallow up a q-tip head and deepest I've seen on a fluted barrel outside the M242 25mm Bushmaster chain gun on a Bradley fighting vehicle.
Then comes the discussion on weather surface area vs sheer mass handles/dissipates heat better. I have one fluted barrel I swear creates mirage off the barrel rather quickly, and that is a great thing for the barrel, but then screws up my sight picture more. No free lunch I guess. lol
Last edited:
When we first started seeing fluted barrels on a larger scale, I questioned how accurate they could be as they warmed up? It seems my concerns were unwarranted from what I've seen.
I have had three fluted by unknown gunsmiths that are ruined. I bought the barrel blanks off a Site, not knowing if they were fluted by the maker or a private Gunsmith. I had assumed that the fluting had been done by the barrel maker. All the Rem 7oos that I have had that were fluted were exceptionally good shooters.
Flute before lapping is key. I have a Hart that is fluted, and the bore dia opened up the entire length of the fluting.
Proper machining techniques are to support the barrel directly under the cutter to eliminate flex.
Today, I go with a lighter contour vs a flute....just my way of avoiding throwing away $1000.
Having a barrel fluted by the barrel maker when you buy the blank is the best way to avoid problems. I have a Bridgport, indexing heads, and cutters to do all the work, and I would not dare do it again. Years ago, I deep fluted some unturned blanks with 9 flutes, and the best the barrel would average was high 2's, and for a 6 PPC, this is NOT ok! They ended up on P.dog rigs.
Flute before lapping is key. I have a Hart that is fluted, and the bore dia opened up the entire length of the fluting.
Proper machining techniques are to support the barrel directly under the cutter to eliminate flex.
Today, I go with a lighter contour vs a flute....just my way of avoiding throwing away $1000.
Having a barrel fluted by the barrel maker when you buy the blank is the best way to avoid problems. I have a Bridgport, indexing heads, and cutters to do all the work, and I would not dare do it again. Years ago, I deep fluted some unturned blanks with 9 flutes, and the best the barrel would average was high 2's, and for a 6 PPC, this is NOT ok! They ended up on P.dog rigs.
Last edited:
