Arbor press seater

I can tell you for a fact that Alex Wheeler chambers pre boring first for an example without a bushing.
I'm certainly not gonna argue with him about the way he does it or tell him he does it to save time.
 
I have no reason to doubt you.
Does it contribute to accuracy and consistency, or just save time and cutting tools?
If alignment is tighter and runout reduced, then I'm all for it.
If I'm the one providing the wear parts it should be my call.
$350 privelege.
 
I'll try and attach a thread from accurateshooter about pre boring, Dave Tooley is another one who pre bores and uses no bushing.
Its about Accuracy, no arguing with me I know there's alot of good smiths who do it there results speak for themselves.
Theres some that still do it with bushings but listening to the ones that don't and prebore it makes alot of sense why they do it.
 
Good deal. Looking forward to reading it, and learning the reasons behind it.

I could see the shoulder of the reamer having a better guide when pre-bored, somewhere between the pilot size and full case diameter size.
2 pioints of alignment then, shoulder and
the actual pilot. Or whatever the correct term is.

Not arguing, I'm asking and trying to figure it out for myself.
 
Well I haven't figured how to attach it yet.
If you wanna go over there its at the bottom in the Gunsmiths projects and questions
 
I can tell you for a fact that Alex Wheeler chambers pre boring first for an example without a bushing.
I'm certainly not gonna argue with him about the way he does it or tell him he does it to save time.

I'll try and attach a thread from accurateshooter about pre boring, Dave Tooley is another one who pre bores and uses no bushing.
Its about Accuracy, no arguing with me I know there's alot of good smiths who do it there results speak for themselves.
Theres some that still do it with bushings but listening to the ones that don't and prebore it makes alot of sense why they do it.

Agreed on both guys. Alex loaned me his 30 Nosler reamer, and Dave loaned me his 338NM reamer. I used their reamers like they do their own chambers.
 
You would just have to use a 35 cal one and indicate in and prebore without the bushing like some smiths do on a chamber.
Wait what tool are you boring with?

You mean pre-bore with a cutting tool, then separately run the reamer without a pilot to chamber an actual barrel, correct?

Not sure how a chamber reamer is long enough to cut an in-line seating die in the wrong caliber, you'd still need a drill or boring bar or some kind of cutting tool to open up the top part of the die. Unless I've not paid attention and my in-line dies are excessively longer than necessary, but I'm measuring one of my reamers now and the throat section is only .620" long, not nearly enough for an inline die with a plunger. Just checked and the die for that chamber has a 1.1" "bore" section in the seating die, so the chamber reamer won't be enough on it's own.

I said take an LE WIlson 300 RUM inline seating die and bore out the seating stem section to 375 since because that doesn't involved having a 375 RUM reamer on hand. The chamber prints are the same all the way up to the shoulder between 300 and 375 RUM, to 0.0001" in length to the body/shoulder junction. If you wanted to get all fancy you could turn a new stem down, otherwise bush the old one.
 
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You mean pre-bore with a cutting tool, then separately run the reamer without a pilot to chamber an actual barrel, correct?
Yes, or simplest might be to just to ream out the neck on a 300 RUM die.
The 338 Rum is shorter to the shoulder
 
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Gunsmith that build my 35 WhelenAI used a Wilson 35 Whelen seater for AI seater and 30-06 neck die for AI.
 
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