Any comments on this build plan?

[joelpat]

Howdy Everybody.

I bought a Model 70 Extreme Weather Stainless .300WM about a year ago. The idea was one rifle to serve as elk gun and long range plinker. A fine idea, except that it doesn't really do either of those all that well, as it currently exists. Having learned that lesson, it's going to become a dedicated elk gun, and whatever it does on the range is fun too.

I just built up an older (1983) M70 FWT .270 into a deer gun that I am absolutely in love with. Lightweight, compact, comfortable, and dead nuts accurate. I put a McMillan Hunter stock on it, with their graphite fill and a custom LOP. I stripped it, cleaned it religiously, and cerakoted it graphite black. Rifle Basix trigger. I put an EGW base on it and Warne rings. I gave it a Leupold 4-12x40 that I had laying around after being forced to buy it at midnight in a Walmart in Aberdeen, Washington after drowning a Nikon in the middle of a five day hunt. Its got a rail on it's chin and an Atlas bipod. For me, a perfect deer gun.

I'm tempted to pretty much clone the .270 for my elk gun, but maybe not exactly. I'm thinking the following, any comments are welcome.
-Rebarrel with a PacNor Sporter in #2 or #3 stainless to try and keep the weight down. I really only want to be able to reach out to 500-600 yards, any more is just too far for me. I'd like to go as short as 22" to save weight and keep it nimble. I'll thread the end for a brake or the option of using a Sig suppressor that I'm going to buy for another gun.
-JEC customs muzzle brake (?). I'm thinking about a brake to make recoil more comfortable and free me up to shave more weight.
-McMillan or Manners stock. I'm not really set on a profile. I'm curious about something with a more vertical grip. My typical elk shot is more likely to be prone or sitting with the bipod on a stump, as opposed to deer which are closer range and more off hand.
-I think I'll leave the MOA trigger as-is. I'm fairly happy with where I have it now (crisp, 3.5lbs) and I don't really see a reason to go swap in a new one.
-I have an EGW 20MOA base with Badger rings. It's got a Zeiss 5-25x50 on it now.
-I'll cerakote it, mainly because I want it to look cool.

My typical elk hunt is 5-10 miles in on logging roads, often on mountain bikes, usually in the rain. This will also be the gun if I ever successfully draw a NH moose tag.

Anybody see anything here that they think I'll really regret?

 

[toddc]

Cartridge?

 

[Jud96]

I would go with at least a 24" barrel and something around a #4 contour to help control barrel whip and tame a large cartridge. What are you wanting to chamber it in?

 

[Deleted member 48126]

I would go with at least a 24" barrel and something around a #4 contour to help control barrel whip and tame a large cartridge. What are you wanting to chamber it in?

I agree...the heavier the barrel the better. Don't save weight on a rifle, just work out and get stronger to heft it around. I tell everyone that who wants a light rifle.

 

[toddc]

I agree...the heavier the barrel the better. Don't save weight on a rifle, just work out and get stronger to heft it around. I tell everyone that who wants a light rifle.

LOL I have been a lardass most of my life. I crack up at guys wanting to shave ounces off of a rig.
Funny if a want to shave 2 ounces off of my load I can just shave my back or take a poop.

 

[bigngreen]

LOL I have been a lardass most of my life. I crack up at guys wanting to shave ounces off of a rig.
Funny if a want to shave 2 ounces off of my load I can just shave my back or take a poop.

Used to think that too, spent three months sheep hunting with a 12lb gun which changed my view a LOT. There is just no need for the weight, I've built 8 pound 338's that will shoot as good at the 14lb one's I've built so I see no reason to weight yourself down if you don't want to.

 

[Jud96]

The Sendero contour is the biggest barrel for hunting in my opinion. My latest build I went with this contour simply because that is what the factory B&C stock was cut for and I did not want to spend excessive money on the build if I did not have too. If I was starting with a fresh stock, I would probably do a Light Palma or #5 contour. I think for a pack rifle or an everyday hunting rifle a #4 or #5 is about perfect, light enough to hump through the hills and heavy enough to make solid shots with.

 

[joelpat]

Cartridge?

I'll leave it in 300 Winnie. I don't feel any need to go bigger.

 

[Jud96]

I'll leave it in 300 Winnie. I don't feel any need to go bigger.

A 22" lightweight barrel in .300 Win Mag will not be pleasant to shoot and the muzzle will be too thin to thread for a brake. I think you should really consider a 24-26" barrel with a #4 contour if you want a .300 that is light and manageable. If you only want to shoot 500 yards than a .284 or .280 Ackley are both great options that will recoil similar to your .270 but have closer ballistics to the .300 Win Mag.

 

[joelpat]

LOL I have been a lardass most of my life. I crack up at guys wanting to shave ounces off of a rig.
Funny if a want to shave 2 ounces off of my load I can just shave my back or take a poop.

I don't need a featherweight rig, but the difference between a Palma mid weight and a #2 sporter is over 2 lbs. An hour before sunset on an elk hunt I've already covered 15 miles, with five more back to the truck. I don't need any reason not to check that last clear cut, cause I've already got plenty.

So I'm not trying to build an ultralight, but I just need two good MOA shots when I call for them.

 

[Jud96]

I don't need a featherweight rig, but the difference between a Palma mid weight and a #2 sporter is over 2 lbs. An hour before sunset on an elk hunt I've already covered 15 miles, with five more back to the truck. I don't need any reason not to check that last clear cut, cause I've already got plenty.

So I'm not trying to build an ultralight, but I just need two good MOA shots when I call for them.

Like I've been saying, get a #4 or #5. You do not have to go to one extreme with a #2 and then go to the other extreme with a Med. Palma. Go in the middle, you won't be disappointed.

 

[joelpat]

A 22" lightweight barrel in .300 Win Mag will not be pleasant to shoot and the muzzle will be too thin to thread for a brake. I think you should really consider a 24-26" barrel with a #4 contour if you want a .300 that is light and manageable. If you only want to shoot 500 yards than a .284 or .280 Ackley are both great options that will recoil similar to your .270 but have closer ballistics to the .300 Win Mag.

Thanks for the point on the threads. Hadn't considered that.
The rifle has a 26" barrel on it now. It's not that I object to the stock barrel weight (well, I do, but I'm a big boy), but I find the length unwieldy. Unfortunately, its fluted, so I can't really have it cut down too much. A 24" overall barrel would be ok, but if I put a brake on it, a 22" tube is about as long as I can go. So it's a 24 without brake or 22 with.

Point taken on the 4/5 option.

 

[joelpat]

The Sendero contour is the biggest barrel for hunting in my opinion. My latest build I went with this contour simply because that is what the factory B&C stock was cut for and I did not want to spend excessive money on the build if I did not have too. If I was starting with a fresh stock, I would probably do a Light Palma or #5 contour. I think for a pack rifle or an everyday hunting rifle a #4 or #5 is about perfect, light enough to hump through the hills and heavy enough to make solid shots with.

Super helpful. Thank you.

 

[bigngreen]

I use the #4 a lot on 300 Win mags for balanced rifle, depending on stock the recoil is there but manageable, it's kinda the cut of point before I feel there are some compromises, from there you gotta slap it with money to get weight down without compromise.