Accurate enough?

[Reelamin]

To the op not the original reply I clicked on by accident.

I personally think all the must haves and must do's combined with the must spends are way out of control.

I used a simple balance beam scale for 20 years and the same electronic scale for the last 25 years.

I have dozens and dozens of factory (not $1500-4000 "factory") rifles shooting well under .75" groups

It can be done safely and end up with extremely accurate results in $3-500 rifles. With basic equipment and some consistent work.

It can also not be done spending multiple $1000's and spending months with a $3000 rifle.

You get to choose just a tiny mouse fart hole or a GRIZZLY bear after a rat hole for reloading.

 

[Shane Lindsey]

OP, if you DO NOT HAVE OCD...you will develop it with reloading.

If you DO NOT WANT OCD...you might as well save your energy and buy factory...

 

[milboltnut]

I got a little obsessed with bullets and powder but that's it. But if you learn what you really need and not fall prey to the guys who say, " you have to have this otherwise it won't be right" mentality, then you should be ok. Just like anything else.. depends on where your heart it. Where ever you treasure is there also will be your heart. But I think for the most part we're past the impressionable age.

My first rifle was a sporterized 303 brit, with a Lee loader, then an RCBS partner press, a beam scale, powder trickler and Lyman dies. Accuracy less than acceptable. Still shot 4 to 5 inch groups at 100 yards. Never killed a deer with it. Stepped up to a 8mm M48 with a barrel scope mount. Killed my first deer with it. From there a Savage 111 270 Win. Got not better accuracy then with factory ammo. However... I bout PMP factory ammo and got phenomenal accuracy. No idea at the time why. I don't see this ammo on the market anymore, but knowing what I know now what they did to make it shoot that well in a unbedded Lee? Well stick around long enough and research on your own and you'll find out. From the 270 I settled on my M70/06 and bedded it. Shoots great, but a load I developed last summer opened up a bit in the fall and learned that I'll have to use a temp stabled powder.

Neck tension/turning, OAL, primer selection (mag for me), made the difference for me.

 

[Greyfox]

A while back I did some powder weight testing with my 6.5x47L and 6.5x284N. My 6.5x47L load of 41.2g of H4350 runs 2890FPS/ES<10FPS. A .1g of H4350 results in an average of 4-5FPS. I noted no material difference in my 1000 yard dope, wind drift, or precision at 1000 yards. My 6.5x284N using Retumbo at 3000FPS delivered comparable results. For PRS(6.5x47L) and LRH(6.5x284N), .1g precision of my charge weight is OK for me. My accuracy standard for both cartridges is <.5MOA to 1000 yards.

 

[bluedog69]

I use the BR with H4350 and set at .2 to .3 less than the desired weight and trickle the rest. Ball powders will be spot on. Record your "measurement" in your log book. If you want to throw .2 less, the setting might be 45.7 on the thrower. I record that amount as R45.7. The hash marks on the thrower are for that purpose. The load would be 55.0 H4350.

55.0 H4350
R45.7

I also do this. I record it as PMS. Powder measure setting. LOL
The PMS might be 53.7 to throw a 60 grain charge. Or 59.7 charge and I trickle the rest.
I also like this as a double safety check. If I set up the PMS and the scale and everything works perfect a year later I feel a lot more confident that the charge is what it should be. (Didn't mess up on balance beam or the electronic scale isn't off)

 

[mongo4567]

I shoot in a wide variety of temperatures. That tends to have a much greater affect on velocities than the powder charge. I use a chargemaster lite because it is fast and accurate enough.

 

[Lukacko]

The Lee perfect powder measure works pretty good with stick powders. Better than my much nicer redding.

 

[Lukacko]

Double post.

 

[Mike Matteson]

I have an RCBS Chargemaster and a V3 Autotrickler I like them both. IMO you'd be hard pressed to see a difference in group size at your stated max distance with a hunting rifle. Bench rest and f-class demand that kind of accuracy but those are custom 1/4moa and better rifles.
I loaded with an RCBS beam scale for over 40 yrs. In that time I made some awesome accurate ammo too. I bought and switched over to the RCBS Chargemaster when it came out. All it did was Speed up the process, no discernible accuracy improvements.
Now the V3 is not only faster but 5x more accurate.

If you plan on shooting over 600yds or in competition skip over the RCBS Matchmaster and get a V3, V4, or Prometheus.

But for now, since you are just getting started, I think you'd be better served and your money would be better spent on the other tools you'll need.

You'll need a deeper pocket for the Prometheus. I use a powder measure, and scale out the final bit if needed. I use a lot of H4350 and H4831SC. The powder measure learn to use it the same way all the time to get it to throw a better powder charge. There seem to be some quite-a-bit better electric scales out there now. I tried one once, and didn't like it. Gave it away, but that was 20yrs ago. There is so many factors involved loading for long range it's isn't funny.

 

[MT-Shooter]

I have been using a Lyman auto dispenser. Set it for .1 of a grain light and use a powder trickler to bump it up to the correct powder weight. Has worked well for me. During the time that the Lyman is doing its thing, I can prime cases, Size cases etc.

 

[RUFFIAN R - NY]

When I started out said to myself Oh this press will do wonders for me it was a BLUE one . Still use it to this day along with all my other presses Get what you can afford and buy once not junk !!! I respect and have no problems with any of my machines. Have some just for pistol, then rifle, then larger rifle , shotgun all 6 gauges that I shoot & hunt with. It's just another TOY ! RIGHT .

 

[tony d willIiams]

AT 600 yards and less, 0.1 grain makes little difference.
If, (a big word of only two letters), you have set the bullet/brass to the correct length for the rifle, the proper bullet for your purposes/game, a powder that will work within the temperatures you shoot at.
I have chased that rabbit down many tunnels, types of powder, brass, bullets, types of bullets, primers, temperature of reloading room, bullet shooting temperature, direction of travel, how far from the equator, moon phase, (I am a bit anal), as have many others. Finally I decided that for the ranges I was shooting, under a half mile, I had enough data.
And the information shown was that ± 0.1 grain, or half/third a stick of powder made not a lick of difference. My breathing and heartbeat caused more changes in end of travel position.

Now I am preparing for mile reloading and better body control. More rabbit holes. But thankfully, I already have a bit of background and data to push around. ±0.01 will reenter my variables. And bullet seating will approach ±0.0005, or less.

 

[skipglo]

H4350 is one powder I'll be using for 6.5cr. My understanding is that some of the benchrest throwers don't work well with the stick powders. I'll also use Alliant power pistol to load 9mm and 10mm for which I am less concerned about the precision.

If I'm hearing you guys right, the difference between 1-4 sticks of H4350 in a charge won't make an appreciable difference, assuming all ither variables are accounted for?

Absolutely correct! Your needs are simple...keep it simple!

 

[RidgeTop]

I like the press that has the dies permanently adjusted and set and you just change the die holders. That has to help with lot to lot variance.
I use the Gen 6 auto loader and like it. .1 gr variance in a rifle load is fine. It might be more important in pistol loads with small charges.