7mm accuracy problems

[MontanaRifleman]

Yeah, you told me about the lug issue in a PM exchange a few years ago but I didn't realize it had that much of an affect on accuracy. It's understandable though. I was about to get a Mark V and after our chat I decided against it. Ended up getting a 700 for the 300 RUM and replaced everything but the receiver. Next time I'll go full custom for any larger magnum.

Hopefully the OP will solve his issue with some more load development.

 

[Dick Tinsley]

First let me state this is JMO.
1. I'm guessing your brass could use some anneling, then trim all to length, camfer inside and out.
2. Make sure everything on the scope is properly torqued.

3. Your rifle should stabilize both the 168's and the 180's, my 7RM shoots the 168's very well. That said I had it specifically built for that bullet it is a 1-10
You might try H1000 I started with R22 after talking with Bryan Litz he suggested H1000 and I've never looked back. Try some different primers, 215m, CCI250, which is what I use I started with the 215's but was always getting one flyer on a suggestion from this sight I tried the 250's problem solved.

4. The bergers like to be seated close to the lands, mine are .001 off, experiment with different seating depths. From a jam out in .010 on out till you find something that is getting close to what you want then tweek from there in.001 increments.
These are the things that worked for me all info gathered here,I am not the most knowledgeable guy on this sight by any means, and still rely on this site and the shooters here for help now and again.
Shot this group last Saturday.View attachment 25129 Normally my groups measure around .25 I was just having a very good day. Good luck let us know what you come up with. And yes that is 3 shots, I had a witness who is a member on this forum.
Rick

Got to agree 100%!!!!!! Great shooting also!!!! MontanaRifleman, got to agree with you also! After a group like that, everything else is second best!!!

DT

 

[Sagedaddy]

Thanks fellas for All the interest in this thread. The rifle was originally a 270 wby. It shot ok with factory wby ammo but that was about it. It'll shoot my original accubond load pretty well, as in the occasional 1/2" group but it usually seems to average closer to 1". Plus the velocity/ temperature sensitivity when usin the 210 m primers and reloader 22 kinda tick me off. Looks like I really need to start over from scratch with all brand new components and start eliminating variables. It just really gets to me cuz I have a super light 270wsm with just a 3-9 leupy on it that'll shoot circles around this full custom 7 mag that I've dumped a whole lot of money and sweat into( not that I'm really complaining about the 270wsm since it weighs in at 7 lbs scoped.) I'm just really hoping to get this 7 shooting so I can start playin around at some truly longer ranges. Any chance any of you more experienced guys think that there might be any reason to try a lighter bullet such as the berger 140vld? Seems like I'd be sacrificing bc and wind drift but Im willing to try anything at this point.

 

[Fiftydriver]

I would say try some H4831 or H1000 if your not happy with RL22.

 

[Dick Tinsley]

First let me state this is JMO.
1. I'm guessing your brass could use some anneling, then trim all to length, camfer inside and out.
2. Make sure everything on the scope is properly torqued.

3. Your rifle should stabilize both the 168's and the 180's, my 7RM shoots the 168's very well. That said I had it specifically built for that bullet it is a 1-10
You might try H1000 I started with R22 after talking with Bryan Litz he suggested H1000 and I've never looked back. Try some different primers, 215m, CCI250, which is what I use I started with the 215's but was always getting one flyer on a suggestion from this sight I tried the 250's problem solved.

4. The bergers like to be seated close to the lands, mine are .001 off, experiment with different seating depths. From a jam out in .010 on out till you find something that is getting close to what you want then tweek from there in.001 increments.
These are the things that worked for me all info gathered here,I am not the most knowledgeable guy on this sight by any means, and still rely on this site and the shooters here for help now and again.
Shot this group last Saturday.View attachment 25129 Normally my groups measure around .25 I was just having a very good day. Good luck let us know what you come up with. And yes that is 3 shots, I had a witness who is a member on this forum.
Rick

Again! Very good stuff!!! Kirby, thanks for the info on the weatherby action. ( I learned something) While the issue of weatherby actions come up, can any tell me if a (I think) browning bbr action is in any way like a weatherby? I have a chance to buy one an just wondering!

 

[roninflag]

SAGE- I have 9 twist Krieger on a rem 700. with 168's and re-19 I get great accuracy. 215 gm primer gave higher velocity, pressure and ES. I could mix 250 , wlrm and 9.5m get the same velocity , group size. i have not tried h-1000 it would be up next if i was to try something different.

 

[Sagedaddy]

Thanks roninflag, I think I'm gonna pull out some new brass and start over. I'm havin a hard time finding h1000 around here. But I have some rl15 plus some other good possible powders. I'll give it a shot and let you guys know how it goes. Think I'm gonna start off with cci 250s and see where it goes from there

 

[Fiftydriver]

Again! Very good stuff!!! Kirby, thanks for the info on the weatherby action. ( I learned something) While the issue of weatherby actions come up, can any tell me if a (I think) browning bbr action is in any way like a weatherby? I have a chance to buy one an just wondering!

I would stay away from the browning receiver. They use very fine threads, EXTREMELY fine threads on newer models which makes them pretty tricky to get a barrel off if you have to. Also, their receivers are extremely brittle, if you use the wrong receiver wrench, its VERY Easy to crack the Browning receivers between the bottom two bolt lug supports in the receiver. Finally, Browning as a company is TERRIBLE to work with if something goes wrong with a rifle or receiver. I have faught with them on three different occasions on behalf of customers with their full factory Brownings and every time I got the same replies that it was the fault of the customer but that Browning would sell them a replacement rifle at cost which was nearly the same price as what the customer could get one for at any local sporting good shop.

The cast Browning receivers are not very easy to work with, I would recommend staying away from them.

 

[Fiftydriver]

Thanks roninflag, I think I'm gonna pull out some new brass and start over. I'm havin a hard time finding h1000 around here. But I have some rl15 plus some other good possible powders. I'll give it a shot and let you guys know how it goes. Think I'm gonna start off with cci 250s and see where it goes from there

RL15 is pretty fast burning for your application. That's going the opposite direction then trying H-1000. I am sure you could work up a load using RL15 but you would REALLY need to be careful watching your pressures because you will pressure out with a relatively low load density and when you get there, pressures will skyrocket quickly!!!

 

[Dick Tinsley]

I would stay away from the browning receiver. They use very fine threads, EXTREMELY fine threads on newer models which makes them pretty tricky to get a barrel off if you have to. Also, their receivers are extremely brittle, if you use the wrong receiver wrench, its VERY Easy to crack the Browning receivers between the bottom two bolt lug supports in the receiver. Finally, Browning as a company is TERRIBLE to work with if something goes wrong with a rifle or receiver. I have faught with them on three different occasions on behalf of customers with their full factory Brownings and every time I got the same replies that it was the fault of the customer but that Browning would sell them a replacement rifle at cost which was nearly the same price as what the customer could get one for at any local sporting good shop.

The cast Browning receivers are not very easy to work with, I would recommend staying away from them.

Thanks Kirby!!!! That's all I needed to know!! I had a funny feeling about them from the start, just needed input from someone that knows more than I do bout this stuff!

DT

 

[Fiftydriver]

Thanks Kirby!!!! That's all I needed to know!! I had a funny feeling about them from the start, just needed input from someone that knows more than I do bout this stuff!

DT

Old browning rifles are nice rifles, relatively recent Browning rifles leave ALOT to be designed. Most are decent for a general purpose hunting rifle but for any customizing, they are a very poor choice and they can be spoiled easily with cracked receivers or gauled barrels. One reason they use very fine receiver threads, I believe 32 tpi on current models, is so that there is a good chance that the barrel/receiver threads will gaul if someone tries to remove them. Even if you know what your doing, there is a 50-50 chance the threads will gaul up. If you push things to hard, you will spoil the receiver unless you cut the barrel off and then bore out the barrel stub in the receiver and rethreads. Hell of a lot of work when there are a lot better choices out there.

We not see many of the current top rifle manufactures going to rifles that make it much more difficult to customize or rebuild such as the new polymer Remington or the Ruger American. I believe this is all in an attempt to make them tinker proof. Just another plus to going with a custom receiver from the start and leave that trouble behind for the most part!!!

Also consider that if you have to purchase say a Rem 700 for a precision rifle project. Once you buy the receiver and have it machined to have it fully ready to build a precision rifle on, you will have close to or over $1000 into the receiver and that's for a blued Rem 700. Stainless could add $200 to that cost.

Consider that the Defiance Rebel or Borden Timberline or Stiller Predator are all in the $1000 to $1100 range including rail base..... Money wiser spent in my opinion as all are stainless steel, all are much stronger and more rigid designs then even the Rem 700. Plus resell value of a full custom rifle is much better then a rebuilt factory rifle which retains much less resale value.

 

[Dick Tinsley]

Old browning rifles are nice rifles, relatively recent Browning rifles leave ALOT to be designed. Most are decent for a general purpose hunting rifle but for any customizing, they are a very poor choice and they can be spoiled easily with cracked receivers or gauled barrels. One reason they use very fine receiver threads, I believe 32 tpi on current models, is so that there is a good chance that the barrel/receiver threads will gaul if someone tries to remove them. Even if you know what your doing, there is a 50-50 chance the threads will gaul up. If you push things to hard, you will spoil the receiver unless you cut the barrel off and then bore out the barrel stub in the receiver and rethreads. Hell of a lot of work when there are a lot better choices out there.

We not see many of the current top rifle manufactures going to rifles that make it much more difficult to customize or rebuild such as the new polymer Remington or the Ruger American. I believe this is all in an attempt to make them tinker proof. Just another plus to going with a custom receiver from the start and leave that trouble behind for the most part!!!

Also consider that if you have to purchase say a Rem 700 for a precision rifle project. Once you buy the receiver and have it machined to have it fully ready to build a precision rifle on, you will have close to or over $1000 into the receiver and that's for a blued Rem 700. Stainless could add $200 to that cost.

Consider that the Defiance Rebel or Borden Timberline or Stiller Predator are all in the $1000 to $1100 range including rail base..... Money wiser spent in my opinion as all are stainless steel, all are much stronger and more rigid designs then even the Rem 700. Plus resell value of a full custom rifle is much better then a rebuilt factory rifle which retains much less resale value.

Good point!!! Many Thanks!!!!!

DT

 

[Sagedaddy]

Oops! I meant to type reloader 19! Thanks for catching that. I have rl 19, 4831sc, rl22 and 25, and 7828. Guess I just need to try a few and see what works. Do you guys using the bergers always start all the way at the bottom of their suggested loads and work up from there? Don't most of the slower powders tend to shoot more accurately as you utilize more of the case capacity? Lastly, I think I mentioned originally that I am trying to load the 168 gr berger classic hunter. They're not supposed to be as sensitive to seating depth. But would you guys suggest starting at the lands and working my way out until I see accuracy drop off?

 

[Fiftydriver]

Oops! I meant to type reloader 19! Thanks for catching that. I have rl 19, 4831sc, rl22 and 25, and 7828. Guess I just need to try a few and see what works. Do you guys using the bergers always start all the way at the bottom of their suggested loads and work up from there? Don't most of the slower powders tend to shoot more accurately as you utilize more of the case capacity? Lastly, I think I mentioned originally that I am trying to load the 168 gr berger classic hunter. They're not supposed to be as sensitive to seating depth. But would you guys suggest starting at the lands and working my way out until I see accuracy drop off?

All of those should work very well. When I was using load manual data, I always started about mid level and worked up. I have found that most factory load data is so under pressured that it means nothing in the real world. Their velocity data is good but the grains of powder to get there will be very different.

This is why a chronograph is so important to test your loads over so you know your velocity. Velocity is simply a function of pressure and time. The number of grains of powder to get that pressure will vary.

I am not saying to NOT follow manual load data. With a good experience level its a simple thing to develop your own loads but until you get that experience, confidence and are comfortable doing it, stick with the load data listed in manuals.

And as always, if you go beyond listed data, you have to accept responsibility on yourself for any possible issues that may come up by doing so. Your on your own if you go over listed data maxes so you better know what your doing and accept all responsibility as your own.