wapitiaddict
Well-Known Member
I'm new to reloading, but I'm sure the quality of brass used would make a difference, as well as the differences in the amount of grains each brand of brass holds.
7mm/08 AI velocity confirmation
- Thread starter wapitiaddict
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
jimbires
Well-Known Member
yes , that all needs to be taken into account . I use quickload for my reloading info . when I adjust quickload to my specs I'm at the upper end , or a touch over max powder charge . using Norma brass , I get over ten reloads on my brass before the primer pockets loosen . most guys say Norma brass is soft and loosens the primer pockets easily . I don't see this my brass holds up well . this load has shot half MOA out to 1000 .
Problem with RL17 is you get speed at the cost of temp sensitivity. Not worth it to me.
My 7-08AI is 16" and will push 162's at 2470. I did switch to 140 ballistic tips this year and they've been pretty deadly. Like stuffing a grenade in their chest cavity without sacrificing hardly any meat. I haven't chrono'd then though.
I haven't had one exit yet (two decent bucks thus far) but if I was to do it over I'd run the 120's. A buddy has been shooting them and he states they are a little tougher with same results....but you pick up velocity.
My 7-08AI is 16" and will push 162's at 2470. I did switch to 140 ballistic tips this year and they've been pretty deadly. Like stuffing a grenade in their chest cavity without sacrificing hardly any meat. I haven't chrono'd then though.
I haven't had one exit yet (two decent bucks thus far) but if I was to do it over I'd run the 120's. A buddy has been shooting them and he states they are a little tougher with same results....but you pick up velocity.
I was never able to achieve 3000 fps on any of my 20" 7-08s
Then I built a 7-08AI on a REM700 trued action & boltface w/23" Lilja bbl 9.25 twist #3
contour. 140gr moly coated NBT move'n @3187fps. Great accuracy (low 3's) but, it was hard on brass and the AI's don't feed that good-or at least mine didn't. But you can get the velocity out of them.
IMO it's worth it.
Very simple solution ,rechamber to .284 Win, you're there, and can go even hotter no problem, if you want to tone it down, just reduce your load. Thos cartrige was designed to give .280 Rem performance in a short action with a .473" bolt face. Handloaders can often approach 7mm Rem Mag performance.
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
The best bet with the AIs and the Short fat Mags to correct feeding problems is to use a center feed mag. All feeding problems go away. We also move the grove/boss in the 788 mag forward to clear the new shoulder. This makes all the difference in preventing case bind in the standard mag.
I have tried the Re-loader powder before but with the temp changes we have, the zero and pressure is inconsistent. I am going to try the New series of stable powders like the Re 16 and see how it works.
J E CUSTOM
I have tried the Re-loader powder before but with the temp changes we have, the zero and pressure is inconsistent. I am going to try the New series of stable powders like the Re 16 and see how it works.
J E CUSTOM
wapitiaddict
Well-Known Member
Yes, i would be very interested in your velocity results when you get the time to chrono.
Yes, I've been researching the 284 cartridge as well. The question I've been trying to answer is if the extra case capacity is worth it in a 20-22" max barrel. Or will it just result in unnecessary muzzle blast and wasted power versus fully utilizing a 7/08 AI. One thread I found on a different form compared the 284 vs 7/08 AI the same as 30-06 vs 308 in a a 22" barrel length. Meaning, all else equal, the 30-06 has about 100-150 more velocity than than the 308, which is what the 284 would have over the 7/08 AI. I don't know if that is correct or not, but sounded reasonable.
By the way, I think I have narrowed it down to either the 7/08 AI or the 284. While I think the standard 7/08 is a very good cartridge, I want just a bit more. I don't mind fire forming because I'll just do a bunch all at once and won't have to worry about it again. Plus, fire forming is a good way to break in a new barrel.
My biggest question now is what would be best in a 20-22" hunting rifle with a can at the end.
You could use Lapua Palma brass like these guys did: https://westtexordnance.com/7mm-saw/
http://www.fishnhunt.co.nz/forum/YaBB.cgi?num=1418556367
Cutting down and suppressing a rifle is a very common thing to do in nz.there are thousands in those rifles around, mainly in 7-08,284 and 308. But the process has been applied on 223, 243,260 ,7 saum, 7 Wsm and 7 rem mag as well as 270. The name bushpig comes from the author of the nz hunter magazine Greg Duley.
Cutting down and suppressing a rifle is a very common thing to do in nz.there are thousands in those rifles around, mainly in 7-08,284 and 308. But the process has been applied on 223, 243,260 ,7 saum, 7 Wsm and 7 rem mag as well as 270. The name bushpig comes from the author of the nz hunter magazine Greg Duley.
wapitiaddict
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that link! I think that basically tipped me over the edge towards the 284. Although I don't think I'll go as short as a 16" barrel. I'll decide from 20" to 22" max.
This is a mountain rifle. With a 13" LOP, 20" barrel, and a 6" can, I think it should come in around 46" total length. Obviously the can adds a lot of length, but after being on two successful bull elk hunts and an antelope hunt where either me or a friend used a suppressor, I don't think I could go back. For me personally, I would rather sacrifice some velocity by going with a shorter barrel and being able to use a can.
wapitiaddict
Well-Known Member
Probably the Tikka T3X. Seems like it would be an easier platform to mod than a SA M700 for running longer length COAL. And of course cheaper than a custom action. But I'm a noob and just trying to learn as much as I can, so I'm open to suggestions.
