6.5-300 Dakota build

John-Pure Precision

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I'm going to be building a 6.5-300 Dakota and hopefully will get a 140 grain bullet up to 3500 fps. Now before trying to talk me out of this with saying it's a barrel burner, expensive brass, weird bolt face ext. I'm still going through with it and no I don't care about the 26 Nosler.:D I'm just needing any advise from wildcat gurus on necking .308 cal to .264 or anybody with experience on this chambering. My plan is to have Whidden build me custom dies and I'm going to order there Hydrolic forming die. I will also buy multiple bushings as to neck down in steps if that doesn't work.

Rifle specs:

Lone Peak Action
Proof Research Carbon Fiber Sendero 1:8 twist 26"
McMillan A3 Stock w/ Edge Fill
Jewell Trigger
 
In a world saturated with 6.5mms already, may I ask why do this, unless it's just a "because I can or because I want it project" ?
The production 6.5mm Hotrods out there... 26 Nosler and the 6.5-300 Roy both have strong and plentiful brass....

Either way.... you're going to be stuck with some uber magnum propellant choices... especially if you want 140/160 grain bullets in the mix... and I'm assuming you do...
WC872,US869 RL33,RL50 would be a dang good start....
I've got 2 26s... the problem is.... when you start looking at 140 load data for THAT cartridge in particular, it becomes butchered.... short of two propellants... RL50 and US869. I've settled on making both of mine barn burners with 130s @ ~ 3450.
 
Kirby's 6.5 magnum is at 3550 with the 142serria. You may want to look at Marshals 150 or 160 for really good ballistics
 
you con use hornady magnum neck dies to neck down. has to be magnum die not standard die. no need for form die unless blowing out taper or changing shoulder angle
 
In a world saturated with 6.5mms already, may I ask why do this, unless it's just a "because I can or because I want it project" ?
The production 6.5mm Hotrods out there... 26 Nosler and the 6.5-300 Roy both have strong and plentiful brass....

Either way.... you're going to be stuck with some uber magnum propellant choices... especially if you want 140/160 grain bullets in the mix... and I'm assuming you do...
WC872,US869 RL33,RL50 would be a dang good start....
I've got 2 26s... the problem is.... when you start looking at 140 load data for THAT cartridge in particular, it becomes butchered.... short of two propellants... RL50 and US869. I've settled on making both of mine barn burners with 130s @ ~ 3450.

Of course this is just a want too, so I can **** off everybody that talks bad about little bullets with High BC's on to of 80+ grains of powder:D I will have no issues loading for it. It's a shorter and way more efficient case over the other GIANT 6.5's so it will produce more speed with way less powder, I think I can get away with using Retumbo... Thoughts?
In all seriousness I think this parent cartridge is over looked and I think it will surprise a lot of people in how effective and efficient will be. and I think it will not torch a barrel as fast as some would think.
 
Good enough of a reason for me... lol
Retumbo? Id shy away from it... especially anything over 140 grains...
Even with 130s in my 26s it was WAY TOO squirrely for me to tolerate.... RL33 and 50 calmed it WAY down and the groups focused right in.... realistically, I'm sitting at mid loads with each rifle and am pushing 3350 on rl33 and 3450 on rl50. The first load is for a Browning, the latter is for an M48.Why mix it up? I had 9 lbs of rl33 I got on sale, yo!
Yeah, the 130 Accubond is the ticket for me....Honestly haven't run heavier in it.... as I have been leaving the 140s in my stockpile for my 6.5x284...
 
Why not use the 7mm Dakota brass, are you going to keep the 30 degree shoulder
or go to a 40 degree. I t has a nice long neck.
 
I'm going to be building a 6.5-300 Dakota and hopefully will get a 140 grain bullet up to 3500 fps. Now before trying to talk me out of this with saying it's a barrel burner, expensive brass, weird bolt face ext. I'm still going through with it and no I don't care about the 26 Nosler.:D I'm just needing any advise from wildcat gurus on necking .308 cal to .264 or anybody with experience on this chambering. My plan is to have Whidden build me custom dies and I'm going to order there Hydrolic forming die. I will also buy multiple bushings as to neck down in steps if that doesn't work.

Rifle specs:

Lone Peak Action
Proof Research Carbon Fiber Sendero 1:8 twist 26"
McMillan A3 Stock w/ Edge Fill
Jewell Trigger

I know exactly what you mean ... good luck!

John built me a custom hydraulic die for my upcoming project off my custom reamer's blueprint from Dave Manson and it works as advertised.

Here's a .300H&H after 2 whacks off the hydraulic die.

.300%20HampH%20to%20.30%20LARA_zpsczclw9d4.jpg


The sizing die will form the radius shoulder to take the design shoulder angle.

He can build me the custom reloading dies from the blueprint too but highly recommends to use fire-formed brass off the rifle's chamber is best. I have another month wait for my barrel.

Cheers!
 
Here is a photo of a 9.3X64 necked to 6.5mm. The next case has two wacks in the Hornady hydro-former, and then four wacks in the hydro-former. I carefully set it to the correct head space so these are about the same as fireformed. Hornady made the die from the Manson print.
002_zpss8bk0nm6.jpg
 
Here is a photo of a 9.3X64 necked to 6.5mm. The next case has two wacks in the Hornady hydro-former, and then four wacks in the hydro-former. I carefully set it to the correct head space so these are about the same as fireformed. Hornady made the die from the Manson print.
002_zpss8bk0nm6.jpg

Did you neck the down with different size bushings or is that 100% done from the Hydro forming die? Whidden told me that there Hydro forming die only worked on moving the shoulder dimensions and would not work if i just wanted to neck it down.
 
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