ARlife4me
Well-Known Member
Anyone reloading for this? It's been on my mind as a possibility over the 7-08. Bullet weights will range from 90-175. No settlement on length ir twist as of yet. Not looking for any AI of any kind fir cartridge.
284win
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jseandsje
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9T is plenty. You won't be using 195's in the 284 anyway.
I would use 24" barrel, but I'm also not a suppressor user.
Monster Toms
Well-Known Member
Under 600 yards for elk my 284 win is my go-to slaying machine. H4350 and a 140 Nosler BT. No Brainer!
AZShooter
Well-Known Member
Been shooting the 284 Win since the early 80s. H4350 or RL-17 are excellent powders. I would stick with bullets from 120 to 168 gr.
Over the decades I have shot quite a few bullets at game from varmints to elk successfully with this chambering. Currently I am using the 120 Nos BT with RL-17. It is very fast and accurate. Pm me for details.
As to barrel length I think you should go with a minimum of 22".
The gun writer Steve Timm wrote a few articles on how well the heavily built 120 Nosler Ballistic tip performed on game as large as moose. A few friends have taken elk with their 7-08s and this bullet. Some of late great Steve Timm's comments on the 120 Nos bt:
Updated 5/29/19
"The 120Ballistic is one heck of a tough bullet. I've killed bull moose, a good number of mature bull elk, big-honking Northern Alberta whitetail & mules and quite a few American pronghorn with the 120. Maybe thirty++ kills in all. (one rifle he used extensively was the 7-08 Ackley (7SGLC) )
Every single one of my 120 Ballistic kills have been one-shot kills. The only 120s I've ever recovered were from two very-mature 6X6 bull elk … one at 375-ish in the vertical spine and one dead-center through the shoulders at 450-ish.
The two recovered bullets are around here somewhere in this mess. If memory serves, the bullets opened to .750"-.800" and both expanded bullets weighed about 100-grains.
I've told the story multiple times, in this forum, about how the 120Ballistic came to be. So I won't bore you.
Trust me, the 120Ballistic is all the 7mm bullet I've used for many, many years and it's always proved to be all the danged bullet I'll ever need … or use.
God Bless,
Steve
Now that other manufacturers are making the 284 brass it is an excellent choice for a SA rifle.
Over the decades I have shot quite a few bullets at game from varmints to elk successfully with this chambering. Currently I am using the 120 Nos BT with RL-17. It is very fast and accurate. Pm me for details.
As to barrel length I think you should go with a minimum of 22".
The gun writer Steve Timm wrote a few articles on how well the heavily built 120 Nosler Ballistic tip performed on game as large as moose. A few friends have taken elk with their 7-08s and this bullet. Some of late great Steve Timm's comments on the 120 Nos bt:
Updated 5/29/19
"The 120Ballistic is one heck of a tough bullet. I've killed bull moose, a good number of mature bull elk, big-honking Northern Alberta whitetail & mules and quite a few American pronghorn with the 120. Maybe thirty++ kills in all. (one rifle he used extensively was the 7-08 Ackley (7SGLC) )
Every single one of my 120 Ballistic kills have been one-shot kills. The only 120s I've ever recovered were from two very-mature 6X6 bull elk … one at 375-ish in the vertical spine and one dead-center through the shoulders at 450-ish.
The two recovered bullets are around here somewhere in this mess. If memory serves, the bullets opened to .750"-.800" and both expanded bullets weighed about 100-grains.
I've told the story multiple times, in this forum, about how the 120Ballistic came to be. So I won't bore you.
Trust me, the 120Ballistic is all the 7mm bullet I've used for many, many years and it's always proved to be all the danged bullet I'll ever need … or use.
God Bless,
Steve
Now that other manufacturers are making the 284 brass it is an excellent choice for a SA rifle.
Monster Toms
Well-Known Member
When I lived in the high country and hunted timber, the 120 BT was my go-to in the 284. Once I moved to the western desert/hayfield country I switched to the 140 .
HSmithTX
Well-Known Member
I've been loading and shooting 284 since the late 80's, I've shot most of my deer and elk with a 284. In a short action I would recommend a 160 as the heaviest bullet that is practical and anything from 8 to even an 11 twist is going to work well. Even that will intrude into the powder capacity a lot, 140 or 150's make a little more sense in a short action. H4350 I don't think can be bettered in a short action 284. The 284 really starts to shine in a medium or long action, you can get bullets like the Berger 180 Hybrid out of the case and into the neck. You can run the 180's with a 9 twist but most go for an 8. H4831/SC I don't think can be bettered once you can load out to 3.2" or so. 180 at an easy 2850 with a 26" barrel. Lots and lots of 1000 yard F-class is done with a 284 and Berger 180's, not too hard on barrels and wins consistently. I'll have a couple 284's in the locker for the rest of my life, it's one of the best cartridges ever in my opinion.
Rifleman97
Well-Known Member
I used to have one, 4831sc and 160gr accubond at 2750 are a match made in heaven for hunting. Considering building another but have other 7mm irons in the fire at the moment. Get a 1:9 twist, it doesn't have enough powder capacity to run the 195's at enough velocity to be worthwhile unless you're doing F class, but it's a great round. Lapua brass availability is a huge reason to run it.
I think mine was a 22" barrel, I loaded a hair hot to match 24" barrel velocities.
When I designed my rifle, suppressors weren't really a viable option at the time so went with a 24" barrel. I had the barrel maker use the GAP reamer with a custom chamber. I went with a 1:8.5 twist to shoot up to 180 vld hunting. I have one load that works well: 162 gr ELDX with H4350 behind it. In the process of developing a load using fired brass with a 168 VLD hunting with RL-17. Really a sweet cartridge. About all I want to shoot.
Roughrice
Well-Known Member
I'm a 284 Win lover too.
I agree with 9T being enough twist up to 180's.
I have used many different powders with different bullet weights and the 284 Win can use a plethora of both!
I have a 26" on Rem 700, 24" on BigHorn Origin, 22" on Tikka and 20" on Tikka.
All are in long actions and all are throated for long bullets.
I have developed loads from 140 grain Accubond to 180 Hybrid.
Now I mostly use 165 Tipped Game King, which is tough and needs to go fast, 162 AMax/Eldm, which work very well at 284 velocities, and 150 ABLR and 150 NBT for the shorter suppressed barrels @ 2850ish.
I have a problem!
I have a tough time deciding which to grab! LOL!
What a great cartridge!
I agree with 9T being enough twist up to 180's.
I have used many different powders with different bullet weights and the 284 Win can use a plethora of both!
I have a 26" on Rem 700, 24" on BigHorn Origin, 22" on Tikka and 20" on Tikka.
All are in long actions and all are throated for long bullets.
I have developed loads from 140 grain Accubond to 180 Hybrid.
Now I mostly use 165 Tipped Game King, which is tough and needs to go fast, 162 AMax/Eldm, which work very well at 284 velocities, and 150 ABLR and 150 NBT for the shorter suppressed barrels @ 2850ish.
I have a problem!
I have a tough time deciding which to grab! LOL!
What a great cartridge!
Last edited:
AZShooter
Well-Known Member
If you haven't built the rifle, consider a custom reamer. You can make the neck diameter a good match for the intended brass. Also consider the current popular usage of a 1 1/2 degree throat angle. AND you determine the distance to the lands.
In my SA Ruger M77 I had my gunsmith lengthen the mag box for an OAL of 3.050" which feeds perfectly in this package. I then had the reamer made to have the 168 VLDs engage the lands.
Here is my wording I kept in my documents. I had an existing reamer reground to these specs:
I am requesting that the reamer be reground to become a 284 win with a .315" neck. Also want a removeable pilot bushing installed.
Also requesting a 1 1/2 degree throat angle be employed.
Use the supplied dummy round to throat the reamer for the bullet to engage the lands .020". (if that isn't possible then to kiss the rifling)
I did this when Winchester brass was the only 284 brass available. The neck thickness varies with this brass. I am using a neck expansion total clearance of .005". This makes the .315" necks turned to a .013" wall thickness loaded round neck OD of .310"
===========
I suppose the details are a bit much for some enthusiasts, but what the heck, if nothing else this knowledge can be useful. Keeping to a minimal neck expansion in the neck portion of the brass helps prevent the overworking of the brass. Of course, the other half of the equation is the type of die used. I use Redding's system that is both a FL and bushing die.
========
Finally, if you choose to shoot a 160 gr bullet and you don't want to impinge on the powder as much, you could consider the 160 Nosler Partition. File off most of the exposed lead tip leaving a tiny amount so it looks like their 30 cal 180 gr protected tip. Nosler said if I left some lead exposed it would expand fine. It also puts the ogive closer to the lands perhaps helping to improve accuracy.
In my SA Ruger M77 I had my gunsmith lengthen the mag box for an OAL of 3.050" which feeds perfectly in this package. I then had the reamer made to have the 168 VLDs engage the lands.
Here is my wording I kept in my documents. I had an existing reamer reground to these specs:
I am requesting that the reamer be reground to become a 284 win with a .315" neck. Also want a removeable pilot bushing installed.
Also requesting a 1 1/2 degree throat angle be employed.
Use the supplied dummy round to throat the reamer for the bullet to engage the lands .020". (if that isn't possible then to kiss the rifling)
I did this when Winchester brass was the only 284 brass available. The neck thickness varies with this brass. I am using a neck expansion total clearance of .005". This makes the .315" necks turned to a .013" wall thickness loaded round neck OD of .310"
===========
I suppose the details are a bit much for some enthusiasts, but what the heck, if nothing else this knowledge can be useful. Keeping to a minimal neck expansion in the neck portion of the brass helps prevent the overworking of the brass. Of course, the other half of the equation is the type of die used. I use Redding's system that is both a FL and bushing die.
========
Finally, if you choose to shoot a 160 gr bullet and you don't want to impinge on the powder as much, you could consider the 160 Nosler Partition. File off most of the exposed lead tip leaving a tiny amount so it looks like their 30 cal 180 gr protected tip. Nosler said if I left some lead exposed it would expand fine. It also puts the ogive closer to the lands perhaps helping to improve accuracy.
cabelasken
Well-Known Member
I bought my first 284 in1984 - a Browning a bolt. It was very accurate and many sub 1/2" 5 shot groups were the norm. After 6000 rounds thru it, I missed a couple of deer and after checking at the range, it looked like my barrel was finally gone. Well I sent it off to Brown Precision for a shilen match barrel and all was good. Well after another 5000 rounds of sub 1/2" groups, that barrel is finally gone. However I did find a model 70 CRF 284 and bought that for $500. It shoots well, but being a clip feed like the A bolt, feeding issued persisted, And now all three 284's sit in the safe. Most of my big game taken with the 284 were with mid weight bullets, 140-150 grain and the a bolt especially liked the barnes tsx in 140 gr. It accounted for 10 or 12 deer and one 6x6 bull - my first. I had settled on 23" as the optimum barrel length and my loads with IMR 4350 came to 3100 FPS. +++++++++++
ARlife4me
Well-Known Member
Roughrice
Well-Known Member
I'd have to measure fired brass but my chambers are 284 Norma/ Match… whatever they call it with extended freebore to my dummy rounds.
I use mostly Winchester brass and haven't had any serious problems overworking the necks.
Normal trimming every few reloads and the brass lasts long even though I push some loads harder.
I have had occasional clickers with a SAMMI chamber running Lapua brass in the past.
You may want to choose which brass you're going to use and notify your riflesmith before chambering.
I use mostly Winchester brass and haven't had any serious problems overworking the necks.
Normal trimming every few reloads and the brass lasts long even though I push some loads harder.
I have had occasional clickers with a SAMMI chamber running Lapua brass in the past.
You may want to choose which brass you're going to use and notify your riflesmith before chambering.
