Which muzzle brake??

Are you saying the MBs ruined his rifle and no longer shoot even without it? That's new to me. @skipglo, clarification, please. I do not want to hijack @KNOTFERSAIL's thread; a separate thread might be better served for an open discussion and add to the knowledge base esp, for those new to muzzle devices.
No that is NOT what he or I are saying. It shoots poorly with the brake on, actually both brakes he tried, fine without it. Both he and I were pretty darn clear in what we wrote.
 
No that is NOT what he or I are saying. It shoots poorly with the brake on, fine without it. Both he and I were pretty darn clear in what we wrote, please try not to start on argument over stuff you imagine got said.
Relax! That is why I asked for clarification because I do not want to assume anything or my intention to start an argument. I always do load development with my MBs on. @skipglo, "IF" those MBs are threaded 5/8-24" and the kind I need/looking for, PM me, and maybe we can make some deals.
 
Last edited:
Just MHO, you need .050" on each side for a shoulder for the brake to rest on, so 1/2x28 threads are required. If it is a hunting rifle, radial brake is okay...target rifle you might shoot prone, get a directional brake...just needs to be timed. Recommend you look at Gentry Quiet brake at Brownells. 3/4" diameter can be tapered to match your barrel diameter. If you have already made a decision, forgive the late comment.
 
His concern is not the POI change, which happens with most brakes or suppressors. His issue is now the gun shoots poorly. The brake causes his groups to climb and move with both brakes, so he isn't really getting a group any more.
It's either barrel harmonics or the threads aren't true causing baffle strikes.
 
Major reason I selected the Cortina Precision "Tuner Brake" that allows fine tuning and quick adjustment for POI shift and barrel harmonics issues.
 
This

or the threads aren't true causing baffle strikes. This is the most likely scenario, a shadetree gunsmith may have threaded it or even a good smith can have a bad day. I have fixed more than a few of these.
I have seen baffle strikes cause very erratic groups but they don't usually follow a repeating pattern, though I guess this is remotely possible. They usually just tend to hit all over the place. The fact it is stringing the shots high tells me barrel harmonics is the most likely issue. With two brakes doing the same thing, like others have said, he may have to try another or completely redevelop his load with the brake in place.
 
I've seen it when the bore is not concentric in the barrel, sometimes very hard to spot by just eyeballing it, which can cause a strike at the far end of the brake. It can be mitigated by the smith when they put the threads on the barrel if they see it... Cheers
 
I'm pondering the idea of "braking" one of my rifles, and what I'm wanting is one that threads on and is similar diameter as the barrel. Other then those two "wants" what else should I look for in a quality and effective brake and who makes/sells them? Yes, I did google it first just didn't find a whole lot of info.

Weight of brake is not much a factor.

Thanks
I have tried a few different ones. Settled on the Hellfire from area 419. Doesn't meet your esthetic criteria, but it has been the best at recoil reduction that I've tried. A big bonus is the system they use for attachment has a suppressor adapter for many suppressors, so you can go that route eventually with some of the same components or switch back and forth while keeping your barrel threads protected.
 
Top