Brass prep

[Orange Dust]

I bought the highly rated Lapua brass for my Swede and every one was well below the minimum SAAMI spec for length. I complained to the factory rep and sent him several cases including some that were full length sized. The letter I got back basically said, "They're within spec on my micrometer." So I bought a 3-2-1 block to confirm that my micrometer is within +-.001 and now I won't buy Lapua brass again for anything. They are slowly growing with each firing, but still below the minimum. The Hornady brass that I bought for it actually seems better so far.

I have to ask, Why do you care if they are a little short? What matters is if they are all the same. It is only a problem if they are too long, then it is a simple matter to trim them. Lapua brass is very consistent and durable. Hornady is neither.

 

[freddiej]

I learned a very long time ago, no case prep should be done on new brass, it stretches, contorts, and settles after the first firing, then and only then should you ever fully prep brass.
what ever you do to your brass to prep it for long range shooting or hunting; it should be done after the first firing or you will be doing a number of things twice. first on new brass and second time on once fired brass.

I personally inside neck ream, center and uniform flash holes, uniform primer pockets, trim to uniform length on the necks, modified full length size, and put cases in weight classes.

 

[FatOldMIHunter]

I have to ask, Why do you care if they are a little short? What matters is if they are all the same. It is only a problem if they are too long, then it is a simple matter to trim them. Lapua brass is very consistent and durable. Hornady is neither.

There's a minimum spec for a reason. I can't seat some bullets close enough to the lands for a short jump without having the seating depth dangerously short. Cases that are .015" short are short enough to be an issue. In addition to that, some of the short bullets leave the case so quickly that some powder sneaks out and burns along the neck and body before the case has time to expand. It might only be microseconds or nanoseconds, but it's enough to blacken the sides of the case. I can't load anything shorter than a 120 gr Barnes TTSX in the Lapua brass.

 

[Alibiiv]

I bought the highly rated Lapua brass for my Swede and every one was well below the minimum SAAMI spec for length. I complained to the factory rep and sent him several cases including some that were full length sized. The letter I got back basically said, "They're within spec on my micrometer." So I bought a 3-2-1 block to confirm that my micrometer is within +-.001 and now I won't buy Lapua brass again for anything. They are slowly growing with each firing, but still below the minimum. The Hornady brass that I bought for it actually seems better so far.

I've yet to find brass that measures what the manual "reads" that it ought to be as far as length goes. I buy .270 Winchester brass to fire-form .270 AI brass, I have found most pieces to be .020 thousandths short. I believe they are using the 30-06 Springfield brass and necking it down. I found this to be true with the Remington, Winchester and Nosler brass. It would be great to find brass that is within factory (SAAMI) specs. I will try investing in Norma brass next to see if their brass is any better. Finding Norma .270 Winchester brass can be a challenge.

 

[Orange Dust]

I've yet to find brass that measures what the manual "reads" that it ought to be as far as length goes. I buy .270 Winchester brass to fire-form .270 AI brass, I have found most pieces to be .020 thousandths short. I believe they are using the 30-06 Springfield brass and necking it down. I found this to be true with the Remington, Winchester and Nosler brass. It would be great to find brass that is within factory specs. I will try investing in Norma brass next to see if their brass is any better. Finding Norma .270 Winchester brass can be a challenge.

Yes, length seems to be what it is pretty often. When you fire form it, it gets even shorter too with your AI.

 

[FatOldMIHunter]

I've yet to find brass that measures what the manual "reads" that it ought to be as far as length goes. I buy .270 Winchester brass to fire-form .270 AI brass, I have found most pieces to be .020 thousandths short. I believe they are using the 30-06 Springfield brass and necking it down. I found this to be true with the Remington, Winchester and Nosler brass. It would be great to find brass that is within factory specs. I will try investing in Norma brass next to see if their brass is any better. Finding Norma .270 Winchester brass can be a challenge.

I would hate to spend the extra for Norma brass and discover the same problem and get the same treatment as Lapua gave me. As I stated in another post, this has real practical implications for reloaders and in my case, where it seems like the lands are set long to assure enough jump for the maximum length bullets with reasonable seating depths in maximum length cases, it limits my ability to load shorter bullets with adequate seating depths for that rifle. Obviously, part of the problem is the rifle, but what good is a SAAMI minimum specification if case manufacturers treat it more like a guideline than a requirement?

 

[Shootin4fun]

New brass- bevel mouth, fl size load and fire. Low single digit SDs. Do I need to do more? Don't think so.

Hdy vs Lapua- Lapua way better brass but if you're on a good velocity node makes not as much difference as one might expect. Single SDs on both in 6.5 cm

 

[Orange Dust]

New brass- bevel mouth, fl size load and fire. Low single digit SDs. Do I need to do more? Don't think so.

Hdy vs Lapua- Lapua way better brass but if you're on a good velocity node makes not as much difference as one might expect. Single SDs on both in 6.5 cm

You would feel very differently if you were loading for a RUM, 28 Nosler, or any belted magnum. The little cartridges are very forgiving to load for. But, you are still leaving performance on the table. Just makes less difference.

 

[Mram10us]

You would feel very differently if you were loading for a RUM, 28 Nosler, or any belted magnum. The little cartridges are very forgiving to load for. But, you are still leaving performance on the table. Just makes less difference.

It is crazy how things magnify when you go up to the big boomers. I used to do everything I could to get my edge to shoot great at 1000+. Trim, neck turn, anneal, flashholes, etc. I got lazy since i found a great load thinking the powder charge and bullet depth were most important and proceeded to load some new brass with the same load. Went out and did not shoot the great groups I was accustomed to. Did full prep and I was back to normal.
My 6.5CM is very forgiving and loves factory loads too.

 

[Orange Dust]

It is crazy how things magnify when you go up to the big boomers. I used to do everything I could to get my edge to shoot great at 1000+. Trim, neck turn, anneal, flashholes, etc. I got lazy since i found a great load thinking the powder charge and bullet depth were most important and proceeded to load some new brass with the same load. Went out and did not shoot the great groups I was accustomed to. Did full prep and I was back to normal.
My 6.5CM is very forgiving and loves factory loads too.

Yes, very different.

 

[Philward]

I thought new brass is all undersized a bit in every direction.

I just put mine through the sizer, primer pockets and flash hole, check length for trimming, and get the high spots with neck Turner. Deburr and chamfer. Ready to load. Measure new ones and after firing to find the chamber dimensions.

 

[Orange Dust]

I thought new brass is all undersized a bit in every direction.

I just put mine through the sizer, primer pockets and flash hole, check length for trimming, and get the high spots with neck Turner. Deburr and chamfer. Ready to load. Measure new ones and after firing to find the chamber dimensions.

It is and this is exactly what i did for a long time. When i added sizing after turning my fire form loads started shooting better.

 

[Blackhawk]

In your experience how important is new brass prep. Particularly 300 win mag and Winchester brass. The rifle is a long range precious build. Will I ever see great consistent accuracy without volume sorting, neck turning, on this less than perfect brass?

What I do now is debur the flash hole and run it through a Lee collet die when new just to be sure the necks are sized consistently.

Here's my process after firing.
1. Push out primers
2. Clean in stainless steel and soap for 1.5 hr, rinse
3. Dry brass
4. Anneal (usually every 3 firings)
5. Bump shoulder .002 and size body
6. Size neck .002" neck tension
7. trim
8. Clean again for 30 min. Rinse
9. Dry

This is what I do but I don't know if I'm doing enough for the consistency I'm looking for. I've never weighed out cases by their volume or turned necks. Should I be doing this or anything else? Or should I be using a higher end brass? Accuracy needed is under .5" thanks in advance

Just curious, Why is it that you do not consider the neck turning operation on virgin brass ? Do you not feel that it may tighten up your rifles groupings ? IMHO the neck turning operation of new brass (performed only one time) will make a difference in your rifles performance, and who is not interested in tighter bullet placement. After all the more concentric the bullet, brass, and barrel rifling are the more accurate your bullet becomes .Your bullets concentricity (T. I. R.) in conjunction to your shell casing can then be checked for bullet to brass run out on a concentricity gage designed just for this. If you are just not into neck turning well that's OK too!

 

[Joefrazell]

Just curious, Why is it that you do not consider the neck turning operation on virgin brass ? Do you not feel that it may tighten up your rifles groupings ? IMHO the neck turning operation of new brass (performed only one time) will make a difference in your rifles performance, and who is not interested in tighter bullet placement. After all the more concentric the bullet, brass, and barrel rifling are the more accurate your bullet becomes .Your bullets concentricity (T. I. R.) in conjunction to your shell casing can then be checked for bullet to brass run out on a concentricity gage designed just for this. If you are just not into neck turning well that's OK too!

I never had neck turned. I don't have the tools. I am willing to do it if it's going to actually make a difference in group size. I'm all for it if that's the case. I've looked into tooling up for it just never actually went through with it. Is it going to be a worthy return of my investment to get the tools?