Which Lathe?

[Autorotate19]

Hi I am looking to buy a good lathe for barrel work etc... Im the buy once cry once type but I would like to keep my budget around 4-6k if possible. I have a descent size shop so there isn't really any size constraints. I know there is already a lot of threads about lathes for gunsmithing and I have read most of them but they all seem to be a few years old. I was hoping to get some updated recent info on what everyone thinks.

I was looking at the Grizzly lathes but Iv heard both good and bad. I would love to buy an older "American" lathe but I don't know enough to know if its going to need rebuilt etc... Any input is appreciated!

 

[bigngreen]

I'm a big Precision Matthews fan, excellent lathes, service and support. New Lathes 12-14" Swing
I have the 1340 GT and it's been excellent, they have a 1440 that looks even better, both Taiwan made instead of China which is an improvement. I wasted 3 years looking for good American iron and found nothing but junk!!

 

[Autorotate19]

Thanks I was just checking them out. Which one would buy now? Also does the stand make much difference?

 

[Georgiashooter]

I'm a big Precision Matthews fan, excellent lathes, service and support. New Lathes 12-14" Swing
I have the 1340 GT and it's been excellent, they have a 1440 that looks even better, both Taiwan made instead of China which is an improvement. I wasted 3 years looking for good American iron and found nothing but junk!!

Another precision Matthews fan here!! I have the China made PM1236 and like it. If it didn't leak oil I would love it. I got mine with the DRO installed which adds another $800 or so but it's worth it. I've turned out some impressive shooting sticks in three years with it as a hobbyist.

 

[Bullet bumper]

The thing with some of the older lathes is that the spindle speeds can be to slow for modern indexable inserts as many were made to use HSS cutters .
Also they tend to not have safety features like foot brakes .
Also if something breaks you have to visit a museum to find a spare part .
Buy a modern lathe with some safety features and good range of spindle speeds and thread ranges . My lathe is made in the same factory in Taiwan as Precision Mathews and shares all teh basic parts but does not have dual spindle speed range because it's single phase but much easier to sell on .
Make sure the spindle hole is big enough for your work and for gun work I would tend to get an imperial lead screw not metric . It will still cut a range of metric threads but Imperial will be cut more accurately and usually have a better range to choose from . You have to have the incorporated stand as it has all the electric contactors in it . You may get a secondhand one for that price .

 

[MTBULLET]

after a few years of research and using several different mfg's, i went from older Southbend to EISEN 1440GE and really like it, little more money but worth it.

 

[bigngreen]

Which one would be really dependant on your personal needs, the 1340 fits your budget better, I ordered mine with a 3 phase motor and VFD installed which is absalutely awesome, I can dial speeds as I'm working which I've found very nice for reaming!

I also ordered it with a DRO installed which is yet another thing that I'm super pleased about and it came installed which is very nice.

The 1440 would be seriously nice but it would push your budget much higher once you add a few of the upgrades, I would rather get an excellent lathe in budget so you can drop money on quality tooling.

Really pay attention to warrenties, PM is 5 years on some 3 on others, I don't know anyone meeting that!

 

[Autorotate19]

The 1340 looks like it will do everything I will need. Sorry but what is a VFD? I was definitely wanting the DRO.

 

[bigngreen]

Variable Frequency Drive, it converts my 220 single phase to 3 phase and gives me the ability to dial my speed in infinitely, also the ramp in and down are programed in.

 

[Bullet bumper]

I don't think the 1340 has a foot brake. Just so you are aware of how things work. With a lathe without an instant stop foot brake you will need to use your thread cutting dial and disengage the half nuts every time you cut a shaft thread . However if the lathe has an instant stop foot brake you can cut a thread up to a shoulder stopping with the brake and withdrawing the tool at the same time . Then just restart in reverse go back to the start , stop , wind into the next cut and start in forward. You don't have to disengage the half nuts. On top of that you have a good convenient safety stop in case you get caught up .
A good thread can be stuffed up by just miss reading the dial or miss engaging the half nuts .
A lot of people think you have to have a 3 phase instant reverse motor to do this. You don't the relay system in the instant stop foot brake allows you to do it with a single phase motor also as it brings the motor to complete stop and then you select reverse to back out .
Many professional machinists like power they don't like any lathe with less than 5 hp . However that is not always the best advice for armatures. You can do everything you will need with 2 hp . A single phase motor lathe is much easier to sell later and much easier to move to another house where 3 phase may not be available . Also way cheaper to replace motor if it breaks down and way easier to buy . I had a mate who set up a workshop full of nice old 3 phase machines . Spent a fortune getting all the 3 phase all wired up . However he lost his job and had to move to get another one and could not afford to do it again . So his machines sat in a garage for years unconnected . We never know what is ahead of us so my philosophy is keep it as portable and sellable as possible .

 

[shortgrass]

The only time an operators manual says to keep the split nut engaged is if you're cutting metric threads on a lathe with an imperial lead screw. A foot break is 'gravy', as is a DRO.

 

[Bullet bumper]

No that's not how an instant stop foot brake works . It matters not which thread range you are on that's all about gear ratios and has nothing to do with lead screw type . It just allows the split nuts to stay engaged for the whole time you need to cut the thread . Meaning you don't need to use the thread dial to reengage the split nuts every pass because they stay closed .
All you need to do is hit the foot brake and withdraw , move to reverse , stop , wind back in to next cut depth , engage forward .
Instant stop foot brakes are more than gravy they are very useful and a great safety feature .

 

[shortgrass]

Since when is threading, using the dial, not "good enough? Many, many, many high tech, precision items have been made using the conventional system. The only time I can think of is if you've got a worm out piece of junk, and that's not what's talking about. Your logic of needing the foot brake in the manner you describe is way, way over the top. The OP is looking for a lathe for gunsmith type work, he's not building a space craft.

 

[Bullet bumper]

Since when is threading, using the dial, not "good enough? Many, many, many high tech, precision items have been made using the conventional system. The only time I can think of is if you've got a worm out piece of junk, and that's not what's talking about. Your logic of needing the foot brake in the manner you describe is way, way over the top. The OP is looking for a lathe for gunsmith type work, he's not building a space craft.

Obviously you have no experience in the technique mentioned . No one said it was "needed " . The technique was put forward as an option to illustrate what you can do with an instant stop foot brake after an incorrect negative post . People tend to knock what they don't like or don't use without knowledge of that subject . No one said that using a thread dial was bad in anyway , you are the one over the top getting all emotional over nothing .
Your comment about worn out junk is senseless and has no basis or relevance to the technique working . You have misread the posts , the term " needing the foot break " is not an accurate quote of what was said . You seem to miss one fact and that is most lathes have either a Metric or an Imperial thread dial and they only work for one . Foot brake works for both and is ideal for threading up to a relieved shoulder on a "GUN " barrel tenon .