What to do with older 22-250

[Terry Scott]

My move rebarrel and rechamber 6xc

 

[Hugnot]

The Rem 700 is a real popular rifle. The SA version is a natural for rounds having the same length as a .22-.250. I get almost all of my rifles used from pawn shops & LGS'. Should I have a need for a used Rem 700 I would take a look at the trigger & extractor.

My complaint with the factory safety is that when the safery is ON the bolt is locked & to open the bolt & unload the rifle the safety must be switched OFF. Should the trigger be improperly adjusted or suffer neglect an accidental discharge (AD) might occur when the safery is switched off. This has happened. Many real good replacement triggers are available.

The extractor,on older M700's is secured with a rivet. Rem 700 extractors can fail and need to be replaced. This is no real big deal but needs some consideration. The extractor appears to be a flimsy semi circular piece of spring steel but when in good shape is strong enough to tear the rim off a stuck case. Years of use can weaken & wear the extractor but there is a fix for this ("alert me when available");

REMINGTON 700 RIVETED EXTRACTOR KITS | Brownells

Replaces the no-longer-available Remington factory part to keep older rifles shooting. A fast, economical, alternative to returning rifle to the factory for repair. Replacement requires no modification to bolt or rifle. Fits all variations of 700,...

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New replacement bolts are available but are pricy. M16 or Sako type extractors are available but require a smith to install.

Should I be keeping it or should I be buying it I would consider trigger & extractor.

 

[VinceMule]

I use the same action, scope, trigger, and have different stocks and up to 6 barrels for one action. I did not pin the recoil lug, but use the Kliendorst Recoil lug locator after having a pin break.

Tools to change the barrel are cheap, and no headspacing tools are required when the gunsmith uses a shoulder on the barrel instead of a Remage set up. I have some Remage set ups' also. I torque the barrel in to 65 foot pounds.

I do not have my actions trued as there is little to NO pay off in terms of accuracy in truing the actions for shooting sub 1/4" groups. Once the actions are trued, using Remage barrels is out of the question. There is a lot of bs out there concerning truing actions and how much improvement is achieved from having your action trued, and I do have trued actions along with customs.

Most Remington 14 Twist 22/250's do not shoot well once the bullet starts jumping. So, you can regain your accuracy by going to bullets that do not have a VLD design such as the 55g Sierra semi point, 63g Sierra semi point, and the 55g Sierra BTHP.

For the Remington Short Action, remember you need to chase the lands as the leader grows, so the parent cases you choose is very important for maintaining accuracy down the road if you want to use the magazine box. The 22/250 AI is one of my favorite calibers, and this cartridge feeds very well in the Remington action along with no alterations, so does the 6-22/250 AI. The 6.5x47 Lapua is a tad shorter in case length than the 22/250, and I have formed 6.5x47 brass from the Remington 22/250 brass when lapua brass was in short supply, resulting in 1/2" groups at 200 yards.

Later on, a Wyatts magazine box was added to my actions and then the 6.5 Creed had more room to seat the bullets out, and so did the 260 AI. The same action also has a 6 XC, 6 BRX, and a 6 Dasher for it. I had a 7 Twist 22/250 and the barrel lasted 800-900 rounds, no more of these for me.

Since I am set up for the 22/250 AI, that is what I use instead of the 22 Creed. If I were starting from Scratch, the 22 Creed is what I would use IF I found find dies.

Most people never consider a switch barrel rifle, but it is as easy as putting on your socks once you have done it a couple of times. Back during the 80's and early 90's when I was shooting so many thousands of p. dogs, we had barrel vises bolted to the rear bumper and would switch out barrels right in the field.

I have had exceptional accuracy with Remage set ups from Criterion and X Caliber, but most barrel makers do the Remage barrels now with the barrel nut.

A new guy is now producing some exceptional barrels, Urbanrifleman over on Accurateshooter. com. I was playing with one of his 6 BR AI's last Winter, no copper and sub 3/8" groups were easily attained with a variety of bullets.

While guys are confounded by the caliber choices, the switch barrel option allows a rifle looney to chase his dream cartridges at 1/3 the cost.

 

[Sab62]

I have a Remington 700 22-250 that was purchased in 2003. This is one of Remington's many mass production rifles that are so so. Sometimes they group and sometimes they don't type of rifle. The barrel on this rifle is shot out and doesn't group anymore. Here is my question for you all. I cant decide if its worth it to have the action blueprinted and rebarreled in a different caliber like .243 or 6 creed or just start over and get what I can out of it from a pawn shop? Would you just sell it or what caliber would you choose if you rebarreled it? Thanks for your input

Don't want to insult anyone's intelligence! Are you sure its shot out? Bought a 264 Win mag years ago for the price of the scope on top because the guy thought it was shot out! Just seriously fowled! Took a electronic cleaner 10 days and a lot of rod scraping but the gun would shoot .65s all day long after being cleaned! Just asking the question.

 

[muddywater]

I just wish I could buy some shells for my 22-250! lol! 9mm and .223 are fine just no range for 'yotes or longer shots on the open plains where I hunt.

 

[UncleDano]

I have a Remington 700 22-250 that was purchased in 2003. This is one of Remington's many mass production rifles that are so so. Sometimes they group and sometimes they don't type of rifle. The barrel on this rifle is shot out and doesn't group anymore. Here is my question for you all. I cant decide if its worth it to have the action blueprinted and rebarreled in a different caliber like .243 or 6 creed or just start over and get what I can out of it from a pawn shop? Would you just sell it or what caliber would you choose if you rebarreled it? Thanks for your input

I rebarreled my old Rem 700 SA in 22-250 to a .458 American (.458 x 2").
Now I shoot 405 grain pills instead 45 grain.
Wow what a difference in muzzle energy!

 

[Chuksnipr]

I recently changed my 700 from 22-250ai to a 1-8 22-250. I was tired of fire forming casings plus wanted higher bc bullets. I am now sending 75grn eldm's at 3300 fps from a 26" proof research sendero contour barrel. Solid 800yrd groundhog killer.

 

[Boatninja]

I use the same action, scope, trigger, and have different stocks and up to 6 barrels for one action. I did not pin the recoil lug, but use the Kliendorst Recoil lug locator after having a pin break.

Tools to change the barrel are cheap, and no headspacing tools are required when the gunsmith uses a shoulder on the barrel instead of a Remage set up. I have some Remage set ups' also. I torque the barrel in to 65 foot pounds.

I do not have my actions trued as there is little to NO pay off in terms of accuracy in truing the actions for shooting sub 1/4" groups. Once the actions are trued, using Remage barrels is out of the question. There is a lot of bs out there concerning truing actions and how much improvement is achieved from having your action trued, and I do have trued actions along with customs.

Most Remington 14 Twist 22/250's do not shoot well once the bullet starts jumping. So, you can regain your accuracy by going to bullets that do not have a VLD design such as the 55g Sierra semi point, 63g Sierra semi point, and the 55g Sierra BTHP.

For the Remington Short Action, remember you need to chase the lands as the leader grows, so the parent cases you choose is very important for maintaining accuracy down the road if you want to use the magazine box. The 22/250 AI is one of my favorite calibers, and this cartridge feeds very well in the Remington action along with no alterations, so does the 6-22/250 AI. The 6.5x47 Lapua is a tad shorter in case length than the 22/250, and I have formed 6.5x47 brass from the Remington 22/250 brass when lapua brass was in short supply, resulting in 1/2" groups at 200 yards.

Later on, a Wyatts magazine box was added to my actions and then the 6.5 Creed had more room to seat the bullets out, and so did the 260 AI. The same action also has a 6 XC, 6 BRX, and a 6 Dasher for it. I had a 7 Twist 22/250 and the barrel lasted 800-900 rounds, no more of these for me.

Since I am set up for the 22/250 AI, that is what I use instead of the 22 Creed. If I were starting from Scratch, the 22 Creed is what I would use IF I found find dies.

Most people never consider a switch barrel rifle, but it is as easy as putting on your socks once you have done it a couple of times. Back during the 80's and early 90's when I was shooting so many thousands of p. dogs, we had barrel vises bolted to the rear bumper and would switch out barrels right in the field.

I have had exceptional accuracy with Remage set ups from Criterion and X Caliber, but most barrel makers do the Remage barrels now with the barrel nut.

A new guy is now producing some exceptional barrels, Urbanrifleman over on Accurateshooter. com. I was playing with one of his 6 BR AI's last Winter, no copper and sub 3/8" groups were easily attained with a variety of bullets.

While guys are confounded by the caliber choices, the switch barrel option allows a rifle looney to chase his dream cartridges at 1/3 the cost.

I'm one of those rifle looneys. I currently have three American rifle company actions with Barrel nuts and all shoot under 1MOA, one 6mm Creed with Proof carbon barrel shoots 3/4-1/2 MOA with OTS Hornady 103 ELD-X ammo. My 22 Creed with Criterion barrel shoots under 1 MOA with pretty much anything I load for it, and some loads in fairly reasonable weather shoot one hole groups.

 

[KR260]

Sell it for the Price of the Action to ^^^ and Buy,.. another .22-250 ( 1-8 TW ), OR,.. a .243 Win. or, 6.5 Creed,.. TIKKA !
By the Time you add in, the cost of ,.. Blue Printing action, a New descent Trigger, a New Barrel and Chambering,.. Yikes !
Tikka is,.. the,.. WAY to go ! I HAVE, 2 Rem's and 3 Tikka's and I'd NEVER, "waste" the Money on, "Building" a Rem, again !
I have, a $950.00, .243 W. Tikka ( W/ 6 X 20 scope ) T-3 SS, that shoots, VERY "close to", as good as, my,.. $3,000 Custom, 6XC Rem, action, Rifle !

What are you wanting to use the rifle for? That would be the first question to answer.

Edit, I thought I was replying to the OP.

 

[RidgeTop]

Don't want to insult anyone's intelligence! Are you sure its shot out? Bought a 264 Win mag years ago for the price of the scope on top because the guy thought it was shot out! Just seriously fowled! Took a electronic cleaner 10 days and a lot of rod scraping but the gun would shoot .65s all day long after being cleaned! Just asking the question.

I like my Oetters electronic cleaner for heavy fouling.