What to do with older 22-250

If it's a A,B.C in the serial no. It's good to go. Blue print it, and at lease change to an AI set up. Increase the twist for sure. If you have been reload it for a long time. I bet you are using standard old dies. So It's not a big lost in getting a new FL bushing die isn't that bad either. The present brass will fireform to the AI chamber. The only problems is getting it done. Somewhere around a year.
 
Don't need to true the action unless your shooting competition I have built quite a few rifles and some were trued some were not, never could see a difference for hunting. I have a 22-250 ai with a 1-8 twist it shoots 55s to 80s really good. If I was to re-barrel at 22-250 which I'm about to do I will go with the 1-10 twist so I could shoot 50s to 60s .my two cents worth
 
I have both a 22-250 and a 22-250 AI built on Rem 700's. The Ai version will do anything a 22 Creedmore will do (as will the 22-243 Middlestead, but that's another tale). If you are in need of a fast 22, any of those will work well. Get a quick twist though. - dan
 
I'd just do the math. Compare cost of rebarreling/bedding the action against the cost of a new rifle minus the value of the action sold through the LRH classifieds. Either way, it'll be fun.
 
Throw some light weight Barnes TTSX in it, shorten the stock for youth, and have an awesome beginner level whitetail round or truck / beater gun for kids.
 
If you've been struggling with an older factory 250 that won't group, just about any modern varmint cartridge sent through a new barrel sitting in a correctly bedded stock topped with a good optic is going to flip your shooting world from night to day.

I would not mess with an AI or other fire form cartridge at this stage, the performance gains are not worth the effort. 6CM, excellent and you can find ammo and components to feed it. Same for 6BR, .243, .223, and your good old .22-250 that you may already have a stockpile of brass and loading components for. But a 6CM, 250AI, 22CM, etc. are going to burn through barrels in about 1/4 the time a .223 or 6BR will. IMO, there is way too much emphasis (read wasted $$$ and effort) spent on marginal gain cartridges that have way too many negatives and their performance never gets fully exploited.

I should take my own advice though, I have two WSSM's, a .22BR and a 30BR. And I love them all, but I also know when it comes down to it, my hyper-accurate .223's and 6BR's are exceedingly hard to beat, unless the target has hooves....

and +1 on doing a remage (plus 10 on Remage Criterion's)

plus another on buying an inexpensive borescope and getting your eyes opened to how badly an old barrel can be fouled and whether the throat is eroded past the point of no return.
 
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I'll say again stick a Remage barrel on it. I like a fast-twist .22-250 Ackley, but perhaps you don't want to deal with fireforming. You gotta admit, though: the .22-250 Ackley is a cool cartidge.

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The real question is what do you want to do with it? I really like actions with some wear on them, since the bolt lugs and rails are often lapped in from use, so other than squaring the face of the action and maybe the bolt face, 'blue printing' isn't really necessary for a hunting rifle. Other than a new barrel, you have everything you need for a wonderful 22-250 without turning it into a real money pit. I'm sure somewhere its written that owning a 22-250 is mandatory, and four of them is better yet so that you have something to shoot while the other one is cooling:). Want to compete? It took me a while to learn, but if you want absolute precision, then start with a precision action and add the premium parts that may get you the highest level of accuracy, but re-barreling an older gun gives it new life for a lot less money for hunting and casual range time, without unnecessary expense. With re-barreling you still get all the fun of load development, along with having it to use without a second mortgage on your home. Groups in the .2's or less or just coyotes and prairie dogs out to 400? Build what you need, regardless of caliber.
 
Selling it to a Pawn Shop is just selling a broke rifle to some one that may use their good money after a bad item. How would you feel if you purchased a rifle, that someone knew it was shot out and just sold it to get some cash. Even if you told the Pawn shop that the barrel is shot out, they won't give you much and then turn around a sell it as a good rifle. Just remember "What goes around Comes Around" Karma is a Bitch!
Re-barrel it if the stock is OK or even put a new stock/Chassis. The action should still be good as a hunting rifle and you don't need to spend money on trueing it up unless you have a GS that will do it inexpressively. If the rifle shot good when new then putting a new barrel on it should be as good or better.
If you don't want to re-barrel it, sell the rifle on LRH just for the action. You will most likely get more for the action on LRH than the rifle at a Pawn Shop.
Or sell it as a private deal and let the buyer know the barrel is wrecked
 
I have a Remington 700 22-250 that was purchased in 2003. This is one of Remington's many mass production rifles that are so so. Sometimes they group and sometimes they don't type of rifle. The barrel on this rifle is shot out and doesn't group anymore. Here is my question for you all. I cant decide if its worth it to have the action blueprinted and rebarreled in a different caliber like .243 or 6 creed or just start over and get what I can out of it from a pawn shop? Would you just sell it or what caliber would you choose if you rebarreled it? Thanks for your input
Lots of options. The action is where the value is. So lots of calibers plus all the AI versions
Id buy from you as I always need actions for customer builds

Short actions with a bolt face .Dia of .473 +/-
225 Winchester
22/250 Remington
6mm Norma BR
243 Winchester
250 Savage
260 Remington
6.5/284 Norma
7/08 Remington
284 Winchester
300 Savage
308 Winchester
338 Federal
35 Remington
358 Winchester

6 & 6.5 Creedmoor
6.5 Lapua
6XC
 
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