I do record that in a notebook; I'll have to mark the target when I get home and post that. I do have it back in a stock that has the factory stock pressure points a couple inches in front of the receiver. So, it could be that, but it would also do that in my other stock where I'd cut the pressure points out. When I shoot my test loads round robin, I'll always go in one direction through the different loads, and then reverse the direction through the loads after cooling. That way I'm not always shooting load #1 completely cool and load #5 completely warm. I guess this means load #3 is always warm, but that's the most even way I could think of doing it without letting the barrel cool completely between every single shot.
What does this grouping mean?
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I do record that in a notebook; I'll have to mark the target when I get home and post that. I do have it back in a stock that has the factory stock pressure points a couple inches in front of the receiver. So, it could be that, but it would also do that in my other stock where I'd cut the pressure points out. When I shoot my test loads round robin, I'll always go in one direction through the different loads, and then reverse the direction through the loads after cooling. That way I'm not always shooting load #1 completely cool and load #5 completely warm. I guess this means load #3 is always warm, but that's the most even way I could think of doing it without letting the barrel cool completely between every single shot.
Hawkeye Pierce
Well-Known Member
How is your scope mounted? Machined rail or screws?
I've got Talley lightweight tikka rings, so they're the rings that have bases machined from one piece.
Montana'eer
Well-Known Member
Man I feel your pain. I had a Tikka T3 laminated SS in 7mm that gave me fits like that.
I was at the range working loads AGAIN when I simply groaned and moaned after getting a couple touching, then moving. The guy next to me started a conversation and come to find out he works at Capital Sports in Helena (Montana) and they've got competent staff and smiths.
to make a long story short, and I remember this clearly, that their experience with Tikka stocks is that their laminate stocks almost always need some work to tune, and their plastic stocks almost never. He said the manufacturing process with the plastic stock are very tight producing fairly consistent results and need little futzing, wheras the laminated ones don't seem to share that aspect. I said "oh nice....".
Several months go by and I go into the store, the guy I met at the range saw me and said "did you get that Tikka sorted out?" I said "YUP!! I worked and worked on it LO and behold it's all fixed... I turned it into a Browning X-Bolt!"
I had little investment into so I just sold it and tried another. Happy Camper.
I think his original words may ring true- you may have futzed the inherent upside of the plastic stock..
I was at the range working loads AGAIN when I simply groaned and moaned after getting a couple touching, then moving. The guy next to me started a conversation and come to find out he works at Capital Sports in Helena (Montana) and they've got competent staff and smiths.
to make a long story short, and I remember this clearly, that their experience with Tikka stocks is that their laminate stocks almost always need some work to tune, and their plastic stocks almost never. He said the manufacturing process with the plastic stock are very tight producing fairly consistent results and need little futzing, wheras the laminated ones don't seem to share that aspect. I said "oh nice....".
Several months go by and I go into the store, the guy I met at the range saw me and said "did you get that Tikka sorted out?" I said "YUP!! I worked and worked on it LO and behold it's all fixed... I turned it into a Browning X-Bolt!"
I had little investment into so I just sold it and tried another. Happy Camper.
I think his original words may ring true- you may have futzed the inherent upside of the plastic stock..
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What are you weighing your charges with? You said you are using a hand press correct?
Ive never owned a tikka, however, I'd buy a box of Federal factory loads and test.
Based off the groups you have posted with "handloads", I would have already sold the rifle if it were mine.
Good luck bud!
Steve
Ive never owned a tikka, however, I'd buy a box of Federal factory loads and test.
Based off the groups you have posted with "handloads", I would have already sold the rifle if it were mine.
Good luck bud!
Steve
Hawkeye Pierce
Well-Known Member
Over my decades of competitive shooting, I have seen and lookec through a lot of scopes.Parallax vs Focus
Yeah, I keep reading that stupid canard and can't figure out why people keep repeating it. My current hypothesis is that this is a requirement for lesser optics because of backlash due to substandard knobs. It certainly is NOT something one does with a March scope. I even have a large wheel...www.longrangehunting.com
So what have experienced is some picatinny rail mounts they get screwed to actions when you talk them down get twisted. So if your picatinny rail isn't machine to your action you would need to take a level across to Picatinny rail forward the back measuring left and right twist to see if you're getting issues. And that's where betting your rings would come in handy to help offset that.
Jon Bischof
Well-Known Member
Ryan, if it shoots the same kind of groups with factory ammunition I would just sell it and buy something that you think you'll like better.
I'm using small Lyman digital scale. With a resolution of 0.1gr. I typically reweigh each charge multiple times to make sure they're correct. And yes, I'm using a Lee hand press.
Considering the rifle is stock and is under 7 lbs scoped with a tiny pencil barrel and it's a .30-06, i think I'd be plenty happy with a consistent 0.75" group at 100. I've only been shooting a medium caliber rifle for groups and handloading for less than a year, so I don't want to get give up on this rifle just yet.
Too much left to learn and improve on. It might just be me and my crap handloads!
Ryan,
At 400 rounds down the pipe I think you've given the rifle a fair opportunity to shoot. Assuming your ability is not hindering the rifles ability.
Like I said, I'd try some good factory ammo to rule the ammunition. A rifle worth keeping should shoot factory at or under an inch, and handloads much better.
I personally do not consider a 7# 30-06 a medium cartridge in regards to recoil. This maybe a factor.
I wish you the best bud!
Steve
At 400 rounds down the pipe I think you've given the rifle a fair opportunity to shoot. Assuming your ability is not hindering the rifles ability.
Like I said, I'd try some good factory ammo to rule the ammunition. A rifle worth keeping should shoot factory at or under an inch, and handloads much better.
I personally do not consider a 7# 30-06 a medium cartridge in regards to recoil. This maybe a factor.
I wish you the best bud!
Steve
Montana'eer
Well-Known Member
I don't think it's your handloads, honestly. I've read every page of this and it totally reminds me of my torture with my Tikka. I've only been reloading for about 5 years.. Just an RCBS Rockchucker, a digital scale and FL sizing die and seater from Forster with my 7mm-mag. I chased my tail for over 300 rounds, factory and handloads, with the Tikka before I finally met that guy at the range. I just didn't want to dump more $ and time into it so I sold it. BOOM.. less than 75 or so rounds and I had a load worked out for the X-Bolt and it is great.
This is what I got with my Tikka after maybe 200 rounds-
I have at least 3-5 pictures the same thing. I'd shoot, wait until the barrel cools, get a few to print and then the **** thing was off. Check scope, mind my shooting discipline, check barrel fit to stock...On and on, and on...
I went from crappy groups to this with 160 Nosler Partions in the X-bolt-
It prints Federal factory ammo almost the same.- this was my first 6 shots in that rifle during break in- using Federal ammo to zero my scope at the same time in the Browning-
I totally get it if you want to keep diagnosing issues, and I've been down that road before with a 98 Mauser I love (in .257 AI) but it takes a while and a lot of patience and time. Bedding, load development, testing.... I'm okay with that on a rifle I love but not on a factory Tikka. Just my .02c
I needed a good mule deer hunting rifle in my safe so I moved on.
There is a TON of great info from posters, and I respect that a lot. Great tips, hints and areas to focus on. But in the end if it can't print something like Federal match ammo and you know how to shoot- it probably ain't you. Sometimes cut and run is a great strategy.
This is what I got with my Tikka after maybe 200 rounds-
I have at least 3-5 pictures the same thing. I'd shoot, wait until the barrel cools, get a few to print and then the **** thing was off. Check scope, mind my shooting discipline, check barrel fit to stock...On and on, and on...
I went from crappy groups to this with 160 Nosler Partions in the X-bolt-
It prints Federal factory ammo almost the same.- this was my first 6 shots in that rifle during break in- using Federal ammo to zero my scope at the same time in the Browning-
I totally get it if you want to keep diagnosing issues, and I've been down that road before with a 98 Mauser I love (in .257 AI) but it takes a while and a lot of patience and time. Bedding, load development, testing.... I'm okay with that on a rifle I love but not on a factory Tikka. Just my .02c
I needed a good mule deer hunting rifle in my safe so I moved on.
There is a TON of great info from posters, and I respect that a lot. Great tips, hints and areas to focus on. But in the end if it can't print something like Federal match ammo and you know how to shoot- it probably ain't you. Sometimes cut and run is a great strategy.
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I've got a altra lite 30-06 T3 that is a handfull with 168s and a t3 lite in 6.5 Sweede both have vortex scopes. Had to put three rings on the 06 to keep the diamondback tacticle in place.
They both also have harris bipods on them.......for me they help keep them consistent!
Shooting form is real important with this little beast and a small pad under the shellholder on the stock helps with check weld.
It aint a 12lb bench gun but very easy to carry
They both also have harris bipods on them.......for me they help keep them consistent!
Shooting form is real important with this little beast and a small pad under the shellholder on the stock helps with check weld.
It aint a 12lb bench gun but very easy to carry
Montana'eer
Well-Known Member
I've got a buddy in Butte, MT that bought a Thompson *whatever the heck bolt* they came out with in .30-06 and it wouldn't shoot worth a hoot. Told him to get the Tikka T3, plastic stock and it shot great with factory 180gr loads. And he's not a decent shot, lol.
I think sometimes you just get a lemon.
I think sometimes you just get a lemon.
I don't think it's your handloads, honestly. I've read every page of this and it totally reminds me of my torture with my Tikka. I've only been reloading for about 5 years.. Just an RCBS Rockchucker, a digital scale and FL sizing die and seater from Forster with my 7mm-mag. I chased my tail for over 300 rounds, factory and handloads, with the Tikka before I finally met that guy at the range. I just didn't want to dump more $ and time into it so I sold it. BOOM.. less than 75 or so rounds and I had a load worked out for the X-Bolt and it is great.
This is what I got with my Tikka after maybe 200 rounds-
I have at least 3-5 pictures the same thing. I'd shoot, wait until the barrel cools, get a few to print and then the **** thing was off. Check scope, mind my shooting discipline, check barrel fit to stock...On and on, and on...
I went from crappy groups to this with 160 Nosler Partions in the X-bolt-
It prints Federal factory ammo almost the same.- this was my first 6 shots in that rifle during break in- using Federal ammo to zero my scope at the same time in the Browning-
I totally get it if you want to keep diagnosing issues, and I've been down that road before with a 98 Mauser I love (in .257 AI) but it takes a while and a lot of patience and time. Bedding, load development, testing.... I'm okay with that on a rifle I love but not on a factory Tikka. Just my .02c
I needed a good mule deer hunting rifle in my safe so I moved on.
There is a TON of great info from posters, and I respect that a lot. Great tips, hints and areas to focus on. But in the end if it can't print something like Federal match ammo and you know how to shoot- it probably ain't you. Sometimes cut and run is a great strategy.
Which federal match ammo do you think I should try?
