Tuning an M—77 Mark II 30.06

[BASE424]

I'm trying to do a buddy a solid and build him a hunting round for his Ruger M-77 Mark II in 30.06. I've put a Timney and an H-S Preciscion stock on it. I've been testing seating depth with Berger VLD Hunters 168gr. with a moderate load of Varget. I haven't been able to get them to group at all. Changed to IMR4831 but no real difference, will try H-4350 next. I am thinking of changing projectiles to something a bit easier to tune. Any "go to" projectiles with a jump range for white tails and muleys 400yds and under. I have read (One powder to rule them all) and am looking for the projectile now. 8yrs reloading, and long gunning. Any advise is appreciated.
Blake

 

[User4302021]

You will find a 180 grain easier to tune. I have that exact gun and just finished a load work up for a 180 Accu-tip and AA4350.

If you stick with that bullet, move to something with a 4350 type burn rate. 4831 is too slow for that bullet. At 400 yds and under, you could use something as pedestrian as the 180 grain Nosler Partition and do more than well enough.

Bullets I've had luck with: 168 Barnes TSX, 180 Game Kings, 180 Accubonds, 180 Interbonds. All yeilded good groups at distance with somewhere around 57 grains of 4350 in Winchester brass and 56.5 in Federal brass.

Somewhere around 3.330 inches OAL seems to be a sweet spot for seating depth.

 

[BASE424]

You will find a 180 grain easier to tune. I have that exact gun and just finished a load work up for a 180 Accu-tip and AA4350.

If you stick with that bullet, move to something with a 4350 type burn rate. 4831 is too slow for that bullet. At 400 yds and under, you could use something as pedestrian as the 180 grain Nosler Partition and do more than well enough.

Bullets I've had luck with: 168 Barnes TSX, 180 Game Kings, 180 Accubonds, 180 Interbonds. All yeilded good groups at distance with somewhere around 57 grains of 4350 in Winchester brass and 56.5 in Federal brass.

3.330 inches OAL seems to be a sweet spot for seating depth.

I've got some 168 TTSX and H-4350. I'll look into getting some Gamekings, Accubonds and Interbonds in 180gr.
Thanks

 

[Dosh]

Did you bed the action?

 

[AZShooter]

You might want to try the Berger 168 classic hunter because it uses a hybrid ogive. The hybrids are seating depth friendly.

As for powder either H4350 or IMR 4350 has always worked well with a 168 right around 57 or 58 gr of powder. Another powder with similar burn rate but longer burning curve would be RL-17.



Regarding the Ruger and potential accuracy issues:


Check front action screw to be sure the screw is not bottoming out in the blind hole
(have seen this too often, especially when rifle has been bedded. Epoxy often gets into bottom of hole)
Ruger rings not completely in integral base
Action screw holes in stock too small, drill larger so sides of action screw won't touch
Bolt handle touching stock
Mag box must not bind
Trigger group must not touch stock
Trigger guard must not touch trigger
Poor crown, optimal way is to check with bore scope
Action screws properly torqued
Barrel having adequate clearance where it is supposed to be floated

 

[xsn10s]

I've got some 168 TTSX and H-4350. I'll look into getting some Gamekings, Accubonds and Interbonds in 180gr.
Thanks

One thing I noticed with many monos you need to clean the barrel out of any previous copper fouling before testing for accuracy. Different jacketed bullets seem to make monos foul very badly and effect accuracy and possibly pressures. To make things easier I'd also go with the Berger Classic Hunter or a more typical tangent ogive bullets. Sierra GK/ GameChanger, Nosler Partition/ Ballistic Tip, and so on. 150gr-180gr will work although a 165gr seemed to be the choice for whitetails. My go to powder and load has been a 180gr Partition under some H4350. Lately I've been playing with Hunter under the 180gr. But I've had excellent results in accuracy using H4895 under 150-155gr bullets too.

 

[Salmonchaser]

Two powders I've had luck with in Ruger 06s 4064/150gr. Rl22/180 gr.
The front action screw has been the culprit on a number of Rugers for me.
I'd add plus one on AZ shooters list.

 

[BASE424]

Two powders I've had luck with in Ruger 06s 4064/150gr. Rl22/180 gr.
The front action screw has been the culprit on a number of Rugers for me.
I'd add plus one on AZ shooters list.

What do you think, tighten to 95 ft.lbs. I believe Ruger says, or tighten to H-S Preciscion's 65 ft.lbs.? Not the easiest screw either, whoever decided to use slot screws on an action obviously does not work on rifles.

 

[xsn10s]

That would be inch/ pounds, not foot/ pounds.

 

[xsn10s]

I'm not a Ruger owner so I cannot say to how to tune the action screws. I'm sure these guys can help. There are also youtube videos on how to do it.

 

[BASE424]

That would be inch/ pounds, not foot/ pounds.

Yup my mistake

 

[xsn10s]

But at the Remington Armorer's course they didn't like people torqueing to 65 in/lbs on the factory aluminum floorplates. They said that could lead to possible cracking on the bottom metal. If your Ruger has steel bottom metal your probably okay.

 

[xsn10s]

Yup my mistake

I figured you just mad a typo. But I'd hate to see anyone break any parts.

 

[Salmonchaser]

Not in position to check my book but I know I'm well short of 90 inch pounds. I want to say 45; this is why I keep a book. If HS said 65, that's what I would use as a max. Quite a few years ago I replaced the slotted screws with Allen heads from Brownells. Inexpensive fix.