TIGHTEN PRIMER POCKETS, here's how.

Knew you had to be from TN. Bailing twine, duct tape, and fence wire will fix about anything. If you don't believe that just drop by my farm.
In the mid-late seventies there was an extreme shortage of baling wire and almost no twine balers at the time. Half the farms in the country fell apart because none of us knew how to fix anything without bailing wire and a pair of Cee-Tee Pliers.
 
Resurrecting this one in case any newer members would like to view it.
Glad you did. I shoot a 338-378 Wby that is HELL on PPs. Never saw any gas on the bolt face, but I keep thinking, ok, this might be the last reload on this case! It got to the point where the weight of the press handle would install a new primer to maybe 98% home. At 80 bucks for 20, I just kept going. Got 15 to 18 loadings on em, but dang, that PP must be mighty sloppy! I've got some of it retired now due to split necks-think I'll try your ingenious solution and see if I can tighten them up a bit, and I don't see why it wouldn't work. Then when the new brass starts that, I can fix it ! Thank you.
 
Back in 15 when cases were harder to get, I did the same thing. Now that components are easy peasy to get, when the pockets get loose, I scrap them. Not worth it for me at least.
 
Agree with low cost, and readily available cases.
It's worth the effort for me after I've formed wildcatted cases, outside neck-turned, chamfered flash holes, and uniformed the primer pockets. Or for cartridge cases that cost more than a dime a dozen.
 
If you own a welder, I recommend you fasten the ball bearing to a 3/8" or 1/2" thick section of steel plate. Chasing the ball bearing around gets old. I should have done this years ago. Just never got to it.

I've got a number of casings to restore. Could spend more time chasing the ball bearing than hammering.

I'm also going to try to salvage some primer pockets on quite a number of .223 Rem cases, for the first time. Will use a .225" diameter Grade 8 bolt, only 1" longer than the case length. Hoping it won't bend before the primer pockets are snugged up.

Ball Bearing Weld 1.jpg
Ball Bearing Weld 2.jpg


That's a 3/8" thick steel plate. A 3/4" ball bearing. Welded with a MillerMatic 200 wire feed welder, using ER70-6S carbon steel wire, and 75/25 welding gas. Two nickles placed in the 2nd photo for purposes of adding scale to this high tech setup.

I'm an amateur welder with no formal training, but I feel certain this ball bearing will never roll again, EVER! Earthquake proof!
 
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Interesting. I have ruined most of my 7 rm brass by using a primer pocket uniforming tool from Redding. I was over zealous with the tool chucked in a drill. The pockets look perfect, shinny, and very sharp corners in the bottom of the pocket. I was so proud of my brass until I primed, loaded and fired the loads. The primers had seated with different pressures, and the primer depth was also not uniform. Many primers were 0.006"-0.010" below flush. I now have about 300+ hulls that I am planning to scrap, or use for destructive testing such as setting shoulders back, and other stuff. I wonder if the ball bearing fix will work.
 
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