Stubborn Tikka T3X barrel

I have a 6.5 Creedmoor factory varmint barrel that I have tried removing today. I have a very secure barrel vise and a rear entry action wrench with a 3/4" hex. I first tried the dead low hammer to " shock" the barrel loose. Nothing. Same thing with a sizable ball peen hammer. Nothing.I then soaked the action barrel threads with penetrating oil for a couple of hours. Repeat and had same results. I then moved to a 1/2" drive long handle socket with 24" long pipe. Nothing.BTW, barrels still hasnt slipped in vise. I then got my MAP gas torch and gently heated the reciever all the way around. I then inserted the action wrench, used the pipe and socket......... it moved........ not really...... I twisted the action wrench !!!!!
Any advise or guidance would do me a world of good.
Thanks
For removal of factory installed barrel it is sometime necessary to use action wrench that clamps around the action and is basically flush with the face of the action. This wrench has a slot that the recoil lug fits in and basically the recoil lug is where most if not all of the force is applied. I only use rear action wrench after barrel is reinstalled at a sensible torque. It is possible to twist and ruin the action with a rear wrench due to where the force is applied when hogging down with a 2 foot pipe. Ouch!
 
For removal of factory installed barrel it is sometime necessary to use action wrench that clamps around the action and is basically flush with the face of the action. This wrench has a slot that the recoil lug fits in and basically the recoil lug is where most if not all of the force is applied. I only use rear action wrench after barrel is reinstalled at a sensible torque. It is possible to twist and ruin the action with a rear wrench due to where the force is applied when hogging down with a 2 foot pipe. Ouch!

which action wrench are you suggesting? I'd love to hear if a specific one.
Sounds like outside is the way to go for sure. Can you give more information?
Thanks!!
 
An action is basically a fastener, you use the right tools and the right method and they spin of just like any other nut, I take apart hardware daily that I can put a huge breaker bar and extensions on and bounce on them, ruin wrenches and fasteners then take an air hammer and just give it a blip and it spins of, to many guys are trying spongy brute force with actions when all they need is a sharp shock and they break loose, it's common with machined surfaces to need a sharp shocking hit or vibration to remove them and they move easy when the right tools are applied.
 
which action wrench are you suggesting? I'd love to hear if a specific one.
Sounds like outside is the way to go for sure. Can you give more information?
Thanks!!
A very good video to watch is on youtube and in pt 1 you can see wrench with explanation. It is "Remington 700 Action Trueing" by Suar.... I have watch every part several times. I believe Brownells, Midway, Wheeler have these available. But I recommend the video highly as it shows wrench and its use.
 
I put a Tikka barreled action barrel down in a vise and soaked it in Kroil for two weeks. It came loose with an inside action wrench. I tried getting another one loose that had over 3000 rounds on it and ended up doing a relief cut. Outside wrench and a heavy hammer are the way to go.
 
I took a piece of 1.5 x 2 inch bar stock about 24 inches long that was laying around and milled a slot deep enough to go the entire depth of the action (made my own wrench) and that works good.
I could not find my 700 outside action wrench at the time or would have used it.
Now I know where both are.
Should not try and remove one on Sunday's, it will make you say things you should not say.......lol
 
A very good video to watch is on youtube and in pt 1 you can see wrench with explanation. It is "Remington 700 Action Trueing" by Suar.... I have watch every part several times. I believe Brownells, Midway, Wheeler have these available. But I recommend the video highly as it shows wrench and its use.
Thanks!!
 
Why are all you guys loosening the barrels on your rifles? I thought the idea was to have the barrel very tightly secured to the action. I'm gonna have to give this new thing a try. How loose do I need to be for my most accurate POI? I can't wait to get started building up my new load of 246 grains of Bullseye behind a 405-grain FPWC in my brand new 220 Swift. I will be out changing the blinker fluid in my D-15 Cat cowdozer while you boys are getting all that advice written down for me. Thanks!
 
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Why are all you guys loosening the barrels on your rifles? I thought the idea was to have the barrel very tightly secured to the action. I'm gonna have to give this new thing a try. How loose do I need to be for my most accurate POI? I can't wait to get started building up my new load of 246 grains of Bullseye behind a 405-grain FPWC in my brand new 220 Swift. I will be out changing the blinker fluid in my D-11 Cat cowdozer while you boys are getting all that advice written down for me. Thanks!

Day drinking?
 
Tikkas are some of the easiest barrel to remove. I have done dozens of them. Just a barrel vice with an aluminium sleeve that matches the barrel contour close to the breach , and an outside action clamp either with a round on one side and a flat on the opposite side ( top and bottom clamping) , or two opposite flats (side clamping). Both work well. The action clamp are never tightened to much so as not to pinch the action on the threads of the barrel . I use a 3 feet lever to break the action loose and not too much force required.
 
I actually used a spare vise I had with softjaws to clamp the opposite flats of the receiver. Took a heat gun to it and was able to get a 3' cheater in the mix and it broke loose with the application of bodyweight...
 
Why are all you guys loosening the barrels on your rifles? I thought the idea was to have the barrel very tightly secured to the action. I'm gonna have to give this new thing a try. How loose do I need to be for my most accurate POI? I can't wait to get started building up my new load of 246 grains of Bullseye behind a 405-grain FPWC in my brand new 220 Swift. I will be out changing the blinker fluid in my D-15 Cat cowdozer while you boys are getting all that advice written down for me. Thanks!
One more very important piece of advice-better give your heart to Jesus as your saviour if you are any where near when the trigger is pulled igniting 246 grains of bullseye lol
 
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