Stihl 391 Chainsaw

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Anyone have a Stilhl 391 Chainsaw? We have a new one with 18" 20" 24"25" Bars. I only started it a few times and it was hard to do. It had a decompression valve for easier starting, but with my neck spinal cord problems it is still hard. I have a monster pine tree that was hit by lighting last year and is now dying dead. It is about 120' to 140' high and the size of a love seat couch round at the bottom. With my disabilities I will have a challenge to cut it down. I have all the professional ropes, pullies, block & Tackel, hammer all the PPE with chaps helmet, visors,, wedges, and several saws with the MS391 with a 25" bar the main saw. Did this kind of stuff all my life up until a few years ago.
I am having a hard time starting my ne MS 391. Everything is new including the gas. I guess I don't have the strength to pull hard enough and keep pulling.
Any tips besides telling me to get someone else to cut the tree down?
I don't want to say that I am too old because I am not, but I may be disabled and don't know when to quit. I can do it if i can get the saw started.
Thanks
Len & Jill
 
I honestly have not tried this yet to know if it works, but IF it works, it sounds like just what you need. If you try it, please let me know if it's real......


Since he didn't mess with the choke after it fired, my guess is that saw was already warm
Good thought, if it really works though!

Len, I wish I had an answer for you. My suggestion would be that cutting the tree down is only half the battle. Getting it cut up and moved is really where the hard work is.
Do you have a niece or nephew close by (or other younger person) that could help with that stuff? You could "show them the ropes" involved in cutting up a tree and they could help you get the saw running?

Btw, in my experience new saws seem to be more finicky than older broken in ones. Seems like they vapor lock more, too, for whatever reason.
 
I have the 391 and only a couple of years old. I don't do major cords of wood anymore. Mostly residential tree removal. Two things that I have found to help start a cold motor are using ethanol free gas with Lucas oil.

I pull it a couple of times on full choke then bump it to 1/2 choke and it usually fires right up. I let it run for about 30 seconds before hitting the throttle which auto takes the choke off and it returns to idle.

I have about 8 chains and sharpen them all before a days work. As soon as the chip size goes down I change to a new one. When I was younger I used a cig lighter dremel stone. Now I have a nice bench mounted with a hand brake chain clamp holder. Pay attention to the raker height. I kinda do a .020 feeler gauge.


I just burned up a bunch of .223 HP in Wyoming PD hunting. :)
 
dam it len i wish you would have said something last week i ways just down there i am getting old to but logged and did tree ser for years i just sold my last chain saw last fall
Just noticed that the tree was dying. Was hoping the it lived through the lighting hit. Now I got to break out the big saw. Thanks for offering if you were here.
 
Okay let's see here, maybe 1st, take out the spark plug, that's the best diagnostic of a 2-strokes condition. If the plug is black or sooted up, rich, weak or no spark. If the plug is dry, tan electrode, could be okay to run but, do a spark check. Just have the plug out and coil wire attached, ignition controls to on position, pull it over. Good spark? If ya got a nice blue spark, while the plugs out, put a teaspoon of gas directly in the spark plug hole. Reinstall the plug and start er up.
 
On a 64cc compression release saw, close the choke, set the throttle, push the comp button, give her a pull, til it fires once. Then open choke plate, push comp button again, give her a pull. Every time it fires, a guy has to push the comp button again, as it resets to run, whenever it fires. So if you want easy start pulls, got to push the button once it fires or it goes closed and ya got full compression again.
 
If ya have a wet plug or fouled spark plug, get a new plug. When ya get the new plug, check for spark before ya reinstall it. If weak spark or no spark, take the 4 bolts out of recoil cover and Scotch Brite pad, to clean the magnets in the flywheel. Also a guy can take off the air cleaner, make sure the choke plate is fully closed on initial start-up. A guy can give it a tiny shot of either, just to see, if ya got fire in the hole, just don't do that very often, not good on a saw. Probably got other issues if got use either.
 
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Len,
Stihl Manual - you MUST use non ethanol gas. Its in their manual. I have several. Hard starting was understatement. Switched to non ethanol gas otherwise known as recreational gas, the hard starting went away. Stihl has told me the seals and gaskets are also affected by ethanol. Saws run incredibly better on non ethanol gas.

I always had carb problems until I switched out gas years ago.
 
My old Stihl MS 310 bit the dust a few weeks ago. Replaced it with a new 391. It definitely has more compression than the 310. Honestly, I can't tell the difference with or without the Compression release.

Can this tree reach any buildings or house?
 
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Len,
Stihl Manual - you MUST use non ethanol gas. Its in their manual. I have several. Hard starting was understatement. Switched to non ethanol gas otherwise known as recreational gas, the hard starting went away. Stihl has told me the seals and gaskets are also affected by ethanol. Saws run incredibly better on non ethanol gas.

I always had carb problems until I switched out gas years ago.
Yep, that yobama/corn blend, they'll run on it, just don't leave it in there overnite. Premium 93 octane is a better choice, just like a racing dirt bike, use the best stuff ya get.
 

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