So, We Figured Out Annealing. How about Primer Pocket Restoration?

Think I would get new brass instead of doing the ball bearing trick. The only way I would do it is if the cartridge is really hard to come by. Something like a 6.5x54 MS. Which I have one.
I'm a big fan of using a bigger cartridge and running it mildly, so I don't have to play around and rejuvenate things... I swear they will have an infomercial on this one of these days...

I sorta see your point with the oddball/ hard to come by cartridge issue, but even those can be scrounged over time. I just found 405 winchester the other day after not being able to buy any for a couple years.
 
It is a nice solution to have
Having a way to save brass that is still in good shape.

We messed around with the punch and ball bearing years back on some 6.5x47 and 338LM brass that got stressed out some due to running some higher pressure loads or using powder that was more temp sensitive. But it seemed all a person was doing was distorting the leading edge of the pocket some in which created some pinch in the primer pocket enough to hold the primer better.
Some folks will run a lower pressured load a couple times and feel that the primer pockets tightens up some, I never tried this but know of folks that do it with their 6.5x47s today yet.

I do have smith/machine shop that uses collets and a dead blow press system to refurbish my large brass when the pockets got a little loose on some test rounds or just running it hot at a event when the temps creep into the 100 degree mark. The brass is very expensive to start with and they do bring the case head portion of the brass back to the specs when it was new without distorting it. This process also does not effect the accuracy or performance of the load, if it did we would be culling this brass for close up targets. The ES - SD numbers are single digit and down range impacts water line well. We also try to not get crazy on speed, the goal is to float around 3065 fps with the 550s even though 3200+ can be had. It just saves brass not pushing it as well as keeping it under 3200 seems to help with throat erosion.

Here again I will say when it come to brass
if sized correctly you control case head separation
if annealed you save the necks from cracking and maintain neck tension
The primer pockets are the next weak link and I'm glad we have a better way of correcting them when needed.

Here is the large brass I spoke of - a 416 Warner with the 550 Flat Line next to a 260

I'm sure glad that the brass can be refurbished- fixed correctly versus having to through very good expensive brass away.

Osoh

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When you turn a crankshaft, you remove material from the crankshaft. That means you need "oversized" bearings to replace the missing metal. But now I am confused as to what to call the danged things.
But it is still undersized. Let's say a journal diameter was 3.00". It is turned .020" so the new diameter is 2.980, which is smaller in diameter. New bearings at that size are called undersized, although they are thicker. They go by the size of the journal, not the size of the bearing.

Now if a cylinder is bored, it becomes larger in diameter so therefore is called oversize. And new pistons that would fit that bore are called oversize.:)
 
Undersize it the right term for a rod bearing when you cut the crankshaft. Oversize bearings do exist - they're for the mains when you machine the block down and are oversized on the outside to account for the removed block material. You can even get undersize/oversize main bearings for when the crank and the block are cut.

If you looked hard enough you could probably find an oversize rod bearing - people buy Hi Points for some reason - there's got to be someone somewhere who cut out a rod journal right? 🤣
 
Undersize it the right term for a rod bearing when you cut the crankshaft. Oversize bearings do exist - they're for the mains when you machine the block down and are oversized on the outside to account for the removed block material. You can even get undersize/oversize main bearings for when the crank and the block are cut.

If you looked hard enough you could probably find an oversize rod bearing - people buy Hi Points for some reason - there's got to be someone somewhere who cut out a rod journal right? 🤣
Wouldnt a roll pin punch work better than a bolt if you are going that way
 

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But it is still undersized. Let's say a journal diameter was 3.00". It is turned .020" so the new diameter is 2.980, which is smaller in diameter. New bearings at that size are called undersized, although they are thicker. They go by the size of the journal, not the size of the bearing.

Now if a cylinder is bored, it becomes larger in diameter so therefore is called oversize. And new pistons that would fit that bore are called oversize.:)
Dang, you nailed that. As I said earlier, I done got too old to remember all those things. It is great to be reminded by you. To building engines!!!
 
skipglo it works!
Tried it on some RP brass and still using them.
I have some 308 brass in a bag with loose primers I will work on next.

asd9055 I think you are on to something!I will try the Roll Pin Punch and will report.
Old Rooster
 
Not if you are trying to shrink it. Just thinking now! Have the pins just don't want to go mess around
 
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