Should I Anneal before fireforming?

[7stw]

I did not anneal mine ...

View attachment 272403
This is with .35 Whelen, from L-R: .35 Whelen virgin brass, after .30 Gibbs resizing, after COW, and after standard load.

With the .280 from Peterson, it was already annealed. The process is the same as above, except I have to open the mouth to .30 and then .33 before establishing the false shoulder.

Very nice Feenix!

 

[7stw]

That's what I was going to suggest as well , Neck up and then back down to a false shoulder then COW

That's what my uncle is doing with his 257 Robert's AI.

 

[7stw]

I remember years ago, thinking that fire forming, and Ackley improved cartridges were too much of a pain, for the gain. And to think of the ones I've let go me , now makes me sick. I can tell ya, the pain IS worth the gain

 

[ButterBean]

And to answer the original question I would size up and back down then anneal if it were me

 

[Timnterra]

And to answer the original question I would size up and back down then anneal if it were me

That's what I'm thinking I'll do. I believe Norma brass comes annealed from the factory so it should be soft enough to neck up and back down without issue. It seems like annealing before fireforming would help the shoulder form a little easier.

 

[ButterBean]

That's what I'm thinking I'll do. I believe Norma brass comes annealed from the factory so it should be soft enough to neck up and back down without issue. It seems like annealing before fireforming would help the shoulder form a little easier.

Your all over it Bud

 

[FEENIX]

I believe Norma brass comes annealed from the factory so it should be soft enough to neck up and back down without issue. It seems like annealing before fireforming would help the shoulder form a little easier.

You should be able to see evidence of annealing (normally darker in the neck area) as the .280 from Peterson below.

Annealing before fire-forming is probably an ideal process. BTW, welcome to the .30 Gibbs club.

 

[jpfrog]

BTW, welcome to the .30 Gibbs club.

I do not need another rifle or cartridge. Ok, I do not need another cartridge this year. Ok, ok, I don't need another before my currently in progress two customs finish being built in the next few weeks. Ok,ok, ok, I need this.

 

[FEENIX]

I do not need another rifle or cartridge. Ok, I do not need another cartridge this year. Ok, ok, I don't need another before my currently in progress two customs finish being built in the next few weeks. Ok,ok, ok, I need this.

L L!

 

[Timnterra]

You should be able to see evidence of annealing (normally darker in the neck area) as the .280 from Peterson below.

View attachment 272496

Annealing before fire-forming is probably an ideal process. BTW, welcome to the .30 Gibbs club.

Thanks for the welcome! How is your Gibbs shooting? Have you tried anything in the 208-215gr weight class of bullets? I have a pile of 208 amax bullets sitting around that I plan to sling from the Gibbs it seems like it might be about the perfect size bullet to me.

 

[shinbone]

Here is a picture of the steps to create the 30 Gibbs. The false shoulder is created by expanding the neck beyond the 30 caliber needed for the bullet to 338 caliber then only sizing part of the neck back down to 30 caliber creating a "false shoulder" to contact the neck shoulder junction in the chamber. You can see the false shoulder in the third case from the left prior to fireforming.

I've got a 25-06AI in the gun safe waiting for me to start fireforming for it. I like the idea of the false shoulder.

How do you figure out where on the case to place the false shoulder?

 

[ButterBean]

I've got a 25-06AI in the gun safe waiting for me to start fireforming for it. I like the idea of the false shoulder.

How do you figure out where on the case to place the false shoulder?

You really don' need one on the 25-06AI if your sizing 30-06 or 270 down, but if you want one just start necking down until you can close the bolt

 

[shinbone]

Got it. Thanks.

I'll be forming 25-06 brass.

 

[bengineer]

As a round about way to another answer to the original question:
I have made 35 Whelen brass in one pass from once or more fired 270 win brass. My last batch had two split necks in the first ten or so which were likely once fired, so i flame annealed and had no more splits.
If you think of annealing as a metal grain structure modification process rather than a reloading process, it may re-frame your thoughts and help you make a better and more informed decision, especially regarding when to anneal.