Seating depth mystery

It's a carbon ring. By a Teslong bore scope on amazon for $50. You'll see really quick if your cleaning routine works or not. Hard carbon is hard to get out. C4 it for a while. Short stroke the brush. Or I spin it by hand over the throat with some Iosso bore paste after it has soaked.
 
....In agreement with others, it appears to be a carbon ring. For curiosity's sake, I might check bullet diameter for consistency. I have found Isosso bore paste and a nylon brush to be the king of carbon ring removers.
 
It's a carbon ring. By a Teslong bore scope on amazon for $50. You'll see really quick if your cleaning routine works or not. Hard carbon is hard to get out. C4 it for a while. Short stroke the brush. Or I spin it by hand over the throat with some Iosso bore paste after it has soaked.

Wish I had know about this bore scope when I bought one of those little cheap ones for a cell phone 6 years ago. Would have paid a bit more for one of these.
 
My 7mm Rem mag's seating depth seams to have changed. My last reloads, 143 ELDX, every thing exactly measures the same, but has resistance closing the bolt and almost impossible to remove the unfired cartridge. However the fired case ejects easily and re-chambers with no force. My seating depth @ ojive is still the same, same box of bullets, etc. What is going on? Here is a picture of my loaded cartridge, the fine ring is made by my ogive gauge, the wide rough ring is behind the lands. What is causing the scraping?
Check shoulder bump your head space could be gone. Are you reloading neck sized only brass? Take a shot gun brass brush and clean chamber sometimes dirt can jam a fired case.
 
Had problem with one round similar this - REALLY hard to chamber. so tried ejecting to check the problem. When we finally got the round out and used bore score - it was carbon buildup.
 
First off, have you ever annealed the cases? Second, I'd get a borescope, Harbor Freight has a nice handheld one with a color screen, I use it all the time (digital inspection cameras), 49 bucks. I have a Gradient Lens Hawkeye too but use the HF scope 99% of the time.

Third, I'd use BTE Eliminator in the chamber with a wetted (with BTE) mop and let it sit in there and eat out the carbon. All I ever use now is BTE.

Also, you might want to bump the shoulders back a couple thousands but you need one, a short bade bump die and correct bushing though a standard dir can bump using a higher height shellholder and removing a couple thou from the base of the die but the cases really have to be annealed first.
 
I keep seeing the recommendation for bumping shoulder back some. OP said brass chambers fine with no projectile loaded so how would bumping shoulder alleviate this issue knowing that brass is chambering correctly not loaded?
 
I keep seeing the recommendation for bumping shoulder back some. OP said brass chambers fine with no projectile loaded so how would bumping shoulder alleviate this issue knowing that brass is chambering correctly not loaded?
Thanks, I'm certain the brass is sized correctly.
 
my first thoughts while reading this were to wonder if the cases needed trimmed, or hadn't been sized enough. However, the picture kinda has me stumped as well, unless those bullets are bigger than .284? I'm curious to see what others think!
Looks all the world to me like they are a hair bigger than .284
 
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