Scope slipping at factory torque specs

[Recon$$]

I just put a razor 5x20 gen I on a savage .308 with badger ordinance steel rings. Badger calls for 12 inch - lb. I got the gun out on the range and everything went well but after every 25/30 rounds I was reconfirming my zero since the scope is brand new. I kept having problems with elevation, windage was fine. After a full day of shooting it seemed to level out at .75 inches low. I went home thinking the scope might have issues, but I noticed the scope had marks where it had slipped. I'm figuring that's the cause of my frustration. I torqued them down to 20 lb since razors are built like a tank. I have never had this problem. What are you guys torquing too? Any other ways to remedy this? I won't get a chance to shoot for a few weeks. I am going to remount the scope again. I Just want to eliminate any factors so I can confirm the scope tracks well next time out.

 

[Gary Wiant]

I'm by no means a gun guru like a lot on this site but I would recommend lapping the rings on every rifle you own especially anything with moderate recoil, in fact I lap everything over .204 it doesn't take long & it is piece of mind.

Not sure on the Razors but I just mounted a Vortex Crossfire II 6-18 on my .22 & they recommend 18 # Torque on the rings to the scope, so maybe the 12# just isn't enough.

Good luck

 

[Georgiashooter]

Correct on the 18 in/lb torque. Check the rings as mentioned also to see if they need lapping.

 

[Dr. Vette]

I use 25-30 in-lb on bases, 20-25 on rings. Usually 30 and 25 if steel, as I don't want the scope to slip as you've noted. These are the generic torque specs listed by Wheeler for the FAT wrench, and generally work well.

 

[Barrelnut]

Another thing to try is rosin. It grips stuff very well. That's why gunsmiths use it in barrel vises. Just clean the rings well with alcohol. Then dust tops and bottoms of rings and spread with a q-tip if needed. Then tighten down using the specs mentioned. Lapping is a good thing too, but easy to overdo, so be careful. I would try the rosin before spending money on a lapping kit.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WAA8IXO/?tag=lrhmag19-20

 

[Recon$$]

Thx guys, I'll try a little rosin and stay at 20lbs. See how that works.

 

[Rich Coyle]

I would definitely lap before I used rosin or anything else.

 

[Barrelnut]

I would definitely lap before I used rosin or anything else.

Can you expand on the reasoning at bit?

 

[RockyMtnMT]

With good quality rings I would not lap. Only reason to lap would be if the action is not true.

18"lbs is normal for rings.

Steve

 

[Rich Coyle]

Barrelnut,

When I started buying expensive, to me, scopes to put together a lighter rifle I switched from Tasco ($100) to Swarovski ($1,675) and from Burris Signature (5oz) to Talley lightweight (2oz) rings I noticed the sharp corners of the Talley rings.

I bought a lapping kit just to make sure. Now that I have lapped a four sets for two Weatherbys, a Savage and a Ruger I am convinced no metal to scope rings are parallel to each other and lined up with the centerline of the action. It could be the action or the drilled and tapped holes in the action, but that is irrelevant to me. They can not be corrected by the casual scope installer. The rings can.

So far in the four sets none were good to go when lapping started. All had high areas. When I lap I go until there is a tiny bit of black paint left on the rings. Then I clean them and clean them again and clean them again. Because the first time I did it the rings still left some grey (I guess aluminum) on the scopes. I now mask everything except the rings and give them a paint job.

Since I switched all my scopes to Bushnell 6500 4 1/2-30X50 I don't take them off anymore. But when I did take the other brands off they didn't have the grew color on them like that first one.

 

[bigngreen]

Torque to the specs in the optics manual, this why so many guys have repeat failures of optics, they torque them all like they are heavy walled and they crush the tubes.
Bases and rings all have tolerances in manufacturing, I prefer to bed the rings over lapping but some rings are made to be lapped in some are not. Some are too slick to hold heavy scopes and need the lapping for traction.

 

[Barrelnut]

Barrelnut,

When I started buying expensive, to me, scopes to put together a lighter rifle I switched from Tasco ($100) to Swarovski ($1,675) and from Burris Signature (5oz) to Talley lightweight (2oz) rings I noticed the sharp corners of the Talley rings.

I bought a lapping kit just to make sure. Now that I have lapped a four sets for two Weatherbys, a Savage and a Ruger I am convinced no metal to scope rings are parallel to each other and lined up with the centerline of the action. It could be the action or the drilled and tapped holes in the action, but that is irrelevant to me. They can not be corrected by the casual scope installer. The rings can.

So far in the four sets none were good to go when lapping started. All had high areas. When I lap I go until there is a tiny bit of black paint left on the rings. Then I clean them and clean them again and clean them again. Because the first time I did it the rings still left some grey (I guess aluminum) on the scopes. I now mask everything except the rings and give them a paint job.

Since I switched all my scopes to Bushnell 6500 4 1/2-30X50 I don't take them off anymore. But when I did take the other brands off they didn't have the grew color on them like that first one.

Yea, I used to lap. Rosin is just quicker, works better, and doesn't run the risk of the ruining rings (especially if used on another rifle in the future). The rosin is not a fix for badly misaligned mounting holes though.

 

[Rich Coyle]

Barrelnut,

Rosin will not take out high edges which can cut into a scope.