scope problem

WildRose said:
Not sure if he still does but Len used to sell a very handy gadget that fit in your pocket for leveling scopes and it worked dead nuts. For years I used a single bubble level and just aligned my verticle crosshair with the edge of a plumb building edge or utility pole but they aren't always available.

Check the LRH store.
Click to expand...
Was it one of those little ones that goes between the bottom of the turrets, and the rail? kinda has a little sliding wedge in it?
 
shooter53 said:
Right guys this is what we done, my mates gun was zero 1" high at 100yds as he shoots only upto 200yds and he didnt want to alter it, so this is what i done i put a 24"x 3/4"verticle plumbed line at 100yds and 200 yds both bunches of shots hit the line so after talking him into altering the scope 20 clicks up it was shooting 3/4" left at 100yds my conclusion is the scope a hawke indurance is knackerd. although it shoots fine once zero is attained as long as you dont touch the dials
Click to expand...
This is a prime example of the scope not being properly aligned with the bore of the rifle. The hits to the left after only 20 clicks indicate that the scope is not properly mounted and by increasing the number of clicks up (or down) the more the windage error will manifest itself. As also mentioned if the scope is sighted in and the dials not touched it will remain sighted for that particular rifle and the windage will not be affected. The 100 yard zero will prevail and the rifle will be just as accurate at 200 or 300 providing the holdover is correct. Thus for non tactical scopes a slight cant to the scope will generally not be an issue. For those of us who shoot tactical and/or long range scopes with adjustable turrets it is a very important factor that the scope track perfectly vertical for shots where the turret is adjusted to compensate for the different ranges. In a previous response I explained how to check to make sure that the scope tracks straight so I am not going to go back into it here. If anyone wants more information feel free to contact me.
 
Teri Anne said:
This is a prime example of the scope not being properly aligned with the bore of the rifle. The hits to the left after only 20 clicks indicate that the scope is not properly mounted and by increasing the number of clicks up (or down) the more the windage error will manifest itself. As also mentioned if the scope is sighted in and the dials not touched it will remain sighted for that particular rifle and the windage will not be affected. The 100 yard zero will prevail and the rifle will be just as accurate at 200 or 300 providing the holdover is correct. Thus for non tactical scopes a slight cant to the scope will generally not be an issue. For those of us who shoot tactical and/or long range scopes with adjustable turrets it is a very important factor that the scope track perfectly vertical for shots where the turret is adjusted to compensate for the different ranges. In a previous response I explained how to check to make sure that the scope tracks straight so I am not going to go back into it here. If anyone wants more information feel free to contact me.
Click to expand...
thanks
 
Didn't read all of the answers carefully, but I didn't see this one:

Ensure your windage is relatively centered (erector assy to tube). If you are way on one side or the other, as you make windage adjustments, it can change your elevation. Just look at your windage - is the knob spun way too out or in?
 
257 STW said:
Was it one of those little ones that goes between the bottom of the turrets, and the rail? kinda has a little sliding wedge in it?
Click to expand...
IT's a piece of plastic or cardboard with a slice down the middle that I think goes over the barrel.

It has horizontal cross hatches that you match your scope's horizontal stadia to.

you start off with it a little tilted to the left of right and your scope opposite.

When the two align your scope is level. I haven't looked at it in probably five or ten years but that's how I remember it. The principle is absolutely sound.

If you have a single bubble level to put on top of your top turret you can use it for verification.

I saw a similar gadget that had caliber sized inserts like a laser bore sight and affixed to the end of the barrel that way. Same principle, same exacting, repeatable results.

Growing up shooting scoped rifles and having been a carpenter both professionally and as a hobby I've always had a great eye for plumb and level and hate to admit it but even I have found myself at times in need of some "gadget help". I have one of the old Leupold prismatic scope leveling tools to check myself with when I don't think I'm quite right.
 
WildRose said:
IT's a piece of plastic or cardboard with a slice down the middle that I think goes over the barrel.

It has horizontal cross hatches that you match your scope's horizontal stadia to.

you start off with it a little tilted to the left of right and your scope opposite.

When the two align your scope is level. I haven't looked at it in probably five or ten years but that's how I remember it. The principle is absolutely sound.

If you have a single bubble level to put on top of your top turret you can use it for verification.

I saw a similar gadget that had caliber sized inserts like a laser bore sight and affixed to the end of the barrel that way. Same principle, same exacting, repeatable results.

Growing up shooting scoped rifles and having been a carpenter both professionally and as a hobby I've always had a great eye for plumb and level and hate to admit it but even I have found myself at times in need of some "gadget help". I have one of the old Leupold prismatic scope leveling tools to check myself with when I don't think I'm quite right.
Click to expand...
Oh gotcha! Yes I remember those as well. Never tried one, and not sure I have even seen one in years Lol. I use the Wheeler kit. not the little plastic level kit, but the aluminum barrel clamp, and level kit. Have also done the string/plumbob method. Just curious. Thanks
 
WildRose said:
IT's a piece of plastic or cardboard with a slice down the middle that I think goes over the barrel.

It has horizontal cross hatches that you match your scope's horizontal stadia to.

you start off with it a little tilted to the left of right and your scope opposite.

When the two align your scope is level. I haven't looked at it in probably five or ten years but that's how I remember it. The principle is absolutely sound.

If you have a single bubble level to put on top of your top turret you can use it for verification.

I saw a similar gadget that had caliber sized inserts like a laser bore sight and affixed to the end of the barrel that way. Same principle, same exacting, repeatable results.

Growing up shooting scoped rifles and having been a carpenter both professionally and as a hobby I've always had a great eye for plumb and level and hate to admit it but even I have found myself at times in need of some "gadget help". I have one of the old Leupold prismatic scope leveling tools to check myself with when I don't think I'm quite right.
Click to expand...
Similar to this? https://www.midwayusa.com/product/100910230/
I used an earlier version 35 years ago to mount scopes. I now use levels and a plumb line to align to the bore; then of course verify with a tall target test if needed.
 
Roninco said:
Similar to this? https://www.midwayusa.com/product/100910230/
I used an earlier version 35 years ago to mount scopes. I now use levels and a plumb line to align to the bore; then of course verify with a tall target test if needed.
Click to expand...
That's it, they've even added the bubble level!

Note, bring your own Rubber Bands, that's what the hooks on bottom are for.
 
WildRose said:
That's it, they've even added the bubble level!

Note, bring your own Rubber Bands, that's what the hooks on bottom are for.
Click to expand...
I use that but differently than recommended. I place the bar in a rail cut-out, and then with the rifle on a bipod or other rest, make sure the rifle is canted to be level. Then I align my vertical crosshair with something I know to be level. When I am in Phoenix, I use a 20 story building far off in the distance. I know the sides are plumb because when I bracket the top of building (which is flat) with my horizontal wire, the vertical fits perfectly along side the vertical side of the building. In the past I used my pool fence as a plumb line (verified with a level and square) but I prefer the building alignment now.

Once I have the scope rotated correctly, I place a level on the top turret as a second verification, then carefully tighten the screws. When everything is tight, I verify the level on the rail is level, my building bracket is square, and the level on the turret is level. I often have to repeat because the scope often slips just a bit while tightening.

https://www.americanhunter.org/cont...oop,rings, you are ready to adjust the scope.
 
WildRose said:
That's it, they've even added the bubble level!
Click to expand...
Note, bring your own rubber band.
LRNut said:
I use that but differently than recommended. I place the bar in a rail cut-out, and then with the rifle on a bipod or other rest, make sure the rifle is canted to be level. Then I align my vertical crosshair with something I know to be level. When I am in Phoenix, I use a 20 story building far off in the distance. I know the sides are plumb because when I bracket the top of building (which is flat) with my horizontal wire, the vertical fits perfectly along side the vertical side of the building. In the past I used my pool fence as a plumb line (verified with a level and square) but I prefer the building alignment now.

Once I have the scope rotated correctly, I place a level on the top turret as a second verification, then carefully tighten the screws. When everything is tight, I verify the level on the rail is level, my building bracket is square, and the level on the turret is level. I often have to repeat because the scope often slips just a bit while tightening.

https://www.americanhunter.org/cont...oop,rings, you are ready to adjust the scope.
Click to expand...
I mentioned earlier that for many years I would use a building or utility pole I knew was level.

Just remember a 20 story building won't be plumb on a windy day, they all flex, particularly those of modern steel construction. The flex is actually built in to help keep them from failing in high winds.

I have a magnetic bubble level that fits into the bolt guide rails and sticks out the right hand side so it's easy to watch and if there's anything you can see that's plumb makes checking that vertical stadia a cinch.
 

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