Scope is sliding in Vortex rings? Garbage rings??

[dennisinaz]

Be very careful with thread locking products. Never use it on ring screws. It will give you a much greater clamping force than dry threads. Back of torque by 25-35% of using liquid thread lockers. I use gorilla glue on the rings, NO release agent. It scrapes off with sharp popsicle stick later. Don't ever put thread locker in a blind hole, only on the fastener itself. Makev sure the screws are clean. This requires flushing with brake cleaner or equivalent and wiping with clean patches until clear. It takes effort.

 

[Welderboy11972]

I started using liquid black tape on my big boomers rings...
Lap the rings
Mount the scope ( put on bubble level at this point)
Take the scope back out
Put 1 drop of liquid black tape on the bottom and top halfs
Mount scope and tq screws

And it cleans off pretty easily.

 

[jbronner13]

I have used exclusively vertically split rings because I follow the gospels of Richard Mann and Wayne Van Zwoll. I remember reading an article that said the vertical split rings give better purchase on the tube and your scope will be far less likely to shift. Don't know the truth of it but I took their word for it blindly and have never had any shift issues using warne maxima vertical split rings or Talley's on any of my set ups including light weight, magnums.I have also observed most of the big safari magnums run vertical split rings so there must be at least a little truth to it.

I have some Talley's and many more Warne's. Both claim no need for lapping their rings and I have had perfect return to zero with the QD type rings. Warne's I've found to be affordable and very consistent, their QD rings are about 40 bucks cheaper than Talley's in general and will fit either weaver or picatinny rails.

I have been interested in some of the picatinny unimounts from American defense manufacturing, LaRue, ARC and Spuhr but those are about 300% more than I am usually willing to pay for mounts. They do look pretty slick though!

 

[RockyMtnMT]

Light weight rifle with a good muzzle break with heavy scope equals scope moving in one set of rings. Add another set of rings or one more ring. You could also use a scope level right against the existing ring. This could be enough to stop the scope moving. We have had this issue quite a few times.

I'll be interested to see if the single set of new rings work.

Haven't tried these yet, but am told they hold better than anything else.

M-BRACE SCOPE RINGS

americanrifle.odoo.com

 

[jbronner13]

Light weight rifle with a good muzzle break with heavy scope equals scope moving in one set of rings. Add another set of rings or one more ring. You could also use a scope level right against the existing ring. This could be enough to stop the scope moving. We have had this issue quite a few times.

I'll be interested to see if the single set of new rings work.

Haven't tried these yet, but am told they hold better than anything else.

M-BRACE SCOPE RINGS

americanrifle.odoo.com

ARC is one of those buy once, cry once companies…..I got to play around with some of their actions and I don't think Superman could break the things. Everything they do seems meticulously thought out and exceptionally machined.

 

[jbenevides89]

I had my 338 Lapua take out a set of Seekins rings with my vortex PST II scope. Seen it with friends rifles as well. Badger rings, Leupold mounts, All were fixed with a Spuhr mount. They are expensive, but so is chasing a moving scope when ammo is $2-$4 a shot.

 

[kelly1]

I had my 338 Lapua take out a set of Seekins rings with my vortex PST II scope. Seen it with friends rifles as well. Badger rings, Leupold mounts, All were fixed with a Spuhr mount. They are expensive, but so is chasing a moving scope when ammo is $2-$4 a shot.

Why do you just take the ringtops off and run the screws all the way down into the lowers and make sure the lowers are tapped correctly and you're getting true torque. If that's the case I would return them. I wouldn't waste any time on the bedding.

 

[jbenevides89]

Why do you just take the ringtops off and run the screws all the way down into the lowers and make sure the lowers are tapped correctly and you're getting true torque. If that's the case I would return them. I wouldn't waste any time on the bedding.

I just swapped them out because after something fails on me I will always question it. Even if its me there is that doubt back there saying "well the failed before"

I will use them on a lighter recoil setup where I am not asking so much of them.

 

[kelly1]

I just swapped them out because after something fails on me I will always question it. Even if its me there is that doubt back there saying "well the failed before"

I will use them on a lighter recoil setup where I am not asking so much of them.

Good move

 

[fnlights]

I just swapped them out because after something fails on me I will always question it. Even if its me there is that doubt back there saying "well the failed before"

I will use them on a lighter recoil setup where I am not asking so much of them.

Yep this is the truth lol - exactly why I went with Hawkins Rings - mentally just needed the change