Scope is sliding in Vortex rings? Garbage rings??

More than half the prs shooters use Seekins precision rings , they must work
I'm not saying they don't work. That's what he has though and those rings are the same as the top of the line Seekins. I didn't know that "more than half" of all the PRS shooters run Seekins rings, interesting. Personally I don't think his issue is the rings. It's probably the mounting area on the action not being square , and if the rail is torqued out of square buying new rings will be a waste of money. More than likely the rings are fine!
 
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I'm not saying they don't work. That's what he has though and those rings are the same as the top of the line Seekins. I didn't know that "more than half" of all the PRS shooters run Seekins rings, interesting. Personally I don't think his issue is the rings. It's probably the action not being square , and if the rail is torqued out of square buying new rings will be a waste of money. More than likely the rings are fine!
I would agree with this. I personally think the rings are fine and I'm not bashing Seekins or Vortex at all - trust me I own like 6 Vortex scopes, multiple binos lol I think it might have to do with the action to be honest. Which is insane on am $1,800 gun.
 
I don't think it's necessarily the problem, but loctite on rings? Coming out of the machinist world I was always taught loctite acts as a lubricant during install. Torque specs are usually designated for dry/clean threads
Interesting - honestly I've never heard of people not loctiting scope rings! I thought most manufacturers recommend it
 
Having to bed a rail is quite common actually. All it takes is for the action to be off a little and then the rail to be off a little and you have a issue. I've done it on a few other rigs I have. I have a 700 and a Christiansen I've also had to do it on. It's very easy to check for this also!
 
Having to bed a rail is quite common actually. All it takes is for the action to be off a little and then the rail to be off a little and you have a issue. I've done it on a few other rigs I have. I have a 700 and a Christiansen I've also had to do it on. It's very easy to check for this also!
My rail is bedded though - so I guess that really solves the issue there 😂 forgot about that
 
Interesting - honestly I've never heard of people not loctiting scope rings! I thought most manufacturers recommend it
Never used loctite In all my years of firearm use….not to say my way is correct, but never had an issue with scope slippage. The only place I have used it is on the rail or rings to the receiver.
 
Never used loctite In all my years of firearm use….not to say my way is correct, but never had an issue with scope slippage. The only place I have used it is on the rail or rings to the receiver.
Like I mentioned in post 25, I do think that some loctite spillage caused the majority of the issue - which might be a reason to not use it going forward on the tops of rings honestly. There was a slight amount of loctite around the edge of the scope (white ring in one of the pictures I shared) - that I assume got in there if I used too much.

I truly think it was a me issue and not an equipment issue. I just hate that it cost so much time to get figured out. I did loctite these new hawkins rings, but I didn't use much loctite at all. Hopefully I don't have the same issue.

Going forward, I plan to bed all my rings
 
I run Vortex PMR rings almost exclusively (including on my 300WM) and have never had a scope move, even after dropping a rifle. From what I understand they are manufactured by Seekins and Seekins rings have a pretty great track record. I think you either got a bad set of rings or you have something else going on.
I have used Vortex rings on all of my rifles from .22, .270, .308, 30-06 and 300 WM. and never had any issues torquing the rings to the manufacturers specs of 18 inch pounds max. Any more and there is a possibility of damaging the scope. I worked for Cabelas for quite some time and never had an issue like this? I would as mentioned by someone else that the scope barrel might be just a smidgen too small. Manufacturer does not matter, sometime little things sneak through during production. If It was me I would use a drop of blue locktite one tiny drop on both halves of the rings. Will hold the scope tight in the rings but still able to get it out if you need to.
 
Don't bed either the rail or the rings without a release agent on one of the two surfaces…you might have a need to take them off in the future and that is a pain. Plus, it doesn't buy you anything.

You've been given a few ways to fix it, use one of those or buy new rings but don't lock everything together. Doing so only fixes the symptom of the problem all while creating a completely different problem to deal with in the future.

Good luck!
Put some shoe polish on the action and use whatever bedding compound you prefer on the rail and you are free to swap out bases as you please in the future. Super easy.
 
Be mindful of proper use of loctite. Liquids in blind holes like a scope rail will increase "torque" readings due to hydraulic pressure, liquids in a thru-hole will reduce "torque" readings from lubricating the thread surfaces.

Excess loctite will also cause poor seating of the rail, again from hydraulic resistance.

Loctite should not swell above the thread when applied to a screw.

Like others have said, clean the scope body and the inside of the rings. If you have a Wheeler alignment kit DO NOT bother with the pointed ends of the bars as they are entirely irrelevant. Use the flat faced emds to see where and how much out of alignment there might be. Also by running the lapping bar in the rings WITHOUT lapping compound you will see how much contact area is being utilized.
 
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