BrentM
Well-Known Member
Yeah, drill or buy. I would rather just buy one that uses the ogive. Where do you suggest I look for a RCBS stem for these pointy shiny objects?
Savage 111 LRH 6.5-284 Loading Questions
- Thread starter Nimrodmar10
- Start date
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Thanks Sarge, I never tried Retumbo in my 260. I use 45gr of H4831sc with 142 SMK's for my target shooting. 300 yard egg shoots. Does very well in my Savage LRP.
Sargesniper
Well-Known Member
Sorry, did not know you were talking about runout. My comp. dies leave no runout . I still believe a good polishing is in order for all brand dies ,no matter the price paid. Sorry about my confusion. ..SEMPER FI!
Sargesniper
Well-Known Member
Yes, mine does well with 46.3 gr. H-4831 and a 139 gr. Lapua Scenar. Good shooting to you. ....SEMPER FI!
Nimrodmar10
Well-Known Member
Brent
I think I remember you saying you are using the RCBS Gold Medal Dies. I think that is the same dies I have. That's actually a great set of dies. Screw the Micrometer seater stem out of the die. Take the VLD bullet you're using ant insert it into the stem. Put pressure on the bullet and spin it a few times. Inspect the bullet to see if there is a scratched ring somewhere on the taper of the nose. If you have a ring, that is where the seating stem is contacting the bullet. If there is no ring, take a small wire or pin and measure the depth of the hole in the end of the seating stem. I think you'll see that the depth is greater than the distance the bullet nose goes into the sweater plug.
Another good thing about that seater die, is that you can change it to any other caliber seater that you need. The body of the die is universal. You can order seater plugs ($8.98) and bullet guides ($12.98) for any caliber from Huntington Die Specialties (Huntingtons.com). For shorter calibers you may also order an extended shell holder to go with the seater.
If all else fails, you can chuck a bullet in a drill, coat it with grinding compound, and custom fit your seating stem to the bullet.
Martin
ShootnMathews
Well-Known Member
This may be a dumb question but I'm new to the redding s-bushing dies. Just got mine out of the mail and the instructions didn't specify if the writing on the bushing faced up or down or didn't matter. So which way does it go? Also do I leave the expander ball on or replace it with the small recapping rod tip?
Nimrodmar10
Well-Known Member
The writing on the bushing goes up. The expander ball usually stays on the decapping pin unless you're using the die for decapping without sizing.
ShootnMathews
Well-Known Member
The die came with a normal expander ball installed with the decapping rod. It also came with a smaller decapping rod retainer that will hold the decapping rod without expanding the neck. For neck sizing with a .292" bushing which should I use??
There are various opinions on this, but with my 6.5x284's I use the expanded ball. I check my runout though. On some of my other cartridges I improve runout without the expander. My run outs with my 6.5x284's with Lapua and Noser brass is under .001-.002". I have heard that the writing on the bushing for the dye should face down. I have used them both ways and don't believe it makes any difference. I also leave a very slight amount of play on the bushing so you can just hear a faint click when you shake it. Once I get this, I then tighten the lock nut. Maybe all this isn't necessary, but with neck sized loads I get .25MOA or better.
ShootnMathews
Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone. I will size some in a bit and try this thing out.
Sargesniper
Well-Known Member
ShootnMathews, A well established BR fellow on 6mm BR.com says to get rid of the expander ball altogether as it tends to pull the neck off center. He stated that he shoots golf balls at 800 yds. Read comments by FROGGY. I removed mine from the comp. dies and got perfect alignment. Good luck and keep shooting those bug holes. .....SEMPER FI!
Sarge. I agree with this viewpoint if the expander causes runout. This is caused by the expander/primer pin shaft being out of alignment, which is a very common occurrence with many dyes with the possible exception of the Redding competition dyes. At least the ones I own. I will generally not use the expander anyway, but with a few exceptions. With the 6.5x284 in particular, the.new Lapua cases have a neck OD that runs .290". Even with a properly shaped cup on your seater dye the added seating pressure can deform the Berger VLD's if the neck isn't expanded. Since my runout measurements show no difference in runout with or without the expander, it's very convenient just to run my new cases through my dye to expand the neck size to .292". Its important to use a little case lube on the case mouth when you do this. New cases will produce results virtually identica to my fired cases using the approach. IMHO.
Sargesniper
Well-Known Member
Hello Greyfox, i was repeating what a fellow with a good bit more experience with the 6.5x284 than i have. I tried it and it worked for me with the Redding Comp. Dies. I'm not disputing what works for you. If it works, do it. After all, we are always in a learning stage when reloading, Right? I always tell people, "what ever blows your britches leg up". As for the Berger bullets being deformed during the seating process, i have never had a problem. I always lube the necks and the bullet. Probably why i have no problems. I guess most of us follow the same lines to some extent. Anyway keep shooting those bug holes. Keep in touch. .....SEMPER FI! ....LARRY
ShootnMathews
Well-Known Member
Well I don't have any runout gage. I probably should get one. I checked some of the neck sized loaded rounds by rolling them across my table. Yes I know, not scientific and not accurate but I could not see any wobble whatsoever in the bullet so it can't be way off.
