I was thinking about that earlier They're gonna pull that barrel to cut it down and muzzle theead.I measured my barrel OD and it's only 0.665" Based on what I've read it likely not possible to get a brake installed without it being belled or tapered into the barrel. Waiting to hear back from my machinist buddy for his 0.02$. This may happen sooner than later if he can sneak me in.
Minumum for safely installing a brake on a .30 cal is .648" so your good.I measured my barrel OD and it's only 0.665" Based on what I've read it likely not possible to get a brake installed without it being belled or tapered into the barrel. Waiting to hear back from my machinist buddy for his 0.02$. This may happen sooner than later if he can sneak me in.
If you cut the barrel down you will probably have to reload for that barrel. I have worked put problems for others when they cut barrels down. If you remember the original M16 was proofed for the DOD with a 22 in barrel then when it went into production they installed 17.5" (called it 18") but what happened was instead of the pressure curve receding 2-3" from the end of the barrel it gained out the end and this caused tumbling and very erratic accuracy, also gave a very discernable powder flare. Long story short you cannot have powder burning out the end of the barrel the pressure has to level off and therefore decrease before the bullet reaches the end of the barrel. Most factory 06 loads will not shoot well through a barrel shorter than 24" unless you load down to that particular barrel. The laws of physics are the only laws that cannot be broken. Happy shooting.My first ever deer rifle is Remington 700 SPS chambered in 30-06 I got for my 16th birthday, 16 years ago. It's a functionally fine gun but underwhelming at best. As my firearms collection has grown in quality and size I can't seem to figure out what to do with the '06. I started by getting rid of the factory Tupperware and dropped the rifle into a HS Precision stock and installed a Timney trigger. I still find the gun underwhelming and lacking something. I hunt in upstate NY and shots beyond 200 yards are uncommon for my area and the factory 24" barrel really isn't needed for velocity sake. I am debating on having the barrel cut down 4" so it's a bit handier in the woods and maybe have a muzzle brake installed. Anyone else been in a similar boat and want to weigh in? I kind of feel like I'll just be burning money with this work but at the same time want to enjoy taking the rifle for walk now and then. I'm also open to gun smith recommendations.
I will be working up a new load for the rifle if I do get the barrel shortened. I'm assuming I will need to use a slightly faster burning powder to compensate for the shorter length.If you cut the barrel down you will probably have to reload for that barrel. I have worked put problems for others when they cut barrels down. If you remember the original M16 was proofed for the DOD with a 22 in barrel then when it went into production they installed 17.5" (called it 18") but what happened was instead of the pressure curve receding 2-3" from the end of the barrel it gained out the end and this caused tumbling and very erratic accuracy, also gave a very discernable powder flare. Long story short you cannot have powder burning out the end of the barrel the pressure has to level off and therefore decrease before the bullet reaches the end of the barrel. Most factory 06 loads will not shoot well through a barrel shorter than 24" unless you load down to that particular barrel. Happy shooting.
It all depends on how light your H&S Precision stock is, and what taper your barrel is. I have a Winchester Post 64 FWT 22 inch barrel in a McMillan stock that is very handy. I'm pretty sure the stock is a Winlite configuration and with the featherweight barrel it makes for a light, but not too light rifle.My first ever deer rifle is Remington 700 SPS chambered in 30-06 I got for my 16th birthday, 16 years ago. It's a functionally fine gun but underwhelming at best. As my firearms collection has grown in quality and size I can't seem to figure out what to do with the '06. I started by getting rid of the factory Tupperware and dropped the rifle into a HS Precision stock and installed a Timney trigger. I still find the gun underwhelming and lacking something. I hunt in upstate NY and shots beyond 200 yards are uncommon for my area and the factory 24" barrel really isn't needed for velocity sake. I am debating on having the barrel cut down 4" so it's a bit handier in the woods and maybe have a muzzle brake installed. Anyone else been in a similar boat and want to weigh in? I kind of feel like I'll just be burning money with this work but at the same time want to enjoy taking the rifle for walk now and then. I'm also open to gun smith recommendations.
I have a 270 MOD 70 Featherweight. The rifle is neither light nor short, it weighs less than the standard MOD 70 which I like and a 22" barrel really does not make it noticeably shorter but does make it less heavy. All in all the featherweight is a great rifle, but to get shorter and lighter you would need to get a MOD 7 Remington with its 20" barrel or similar.The gun I typically hunt with in the thick woods is a 30-06 with a 22 inch barrel
its a Winchester feather light with a wooden stock that has been bedded and piller added. It's very light and short.
I like it for the short barrel and being light. im pushing a 180 gr bullet .5 Moa at hundred yards with RL26 at 2800 fps
what I'm getting at is being short, light, hits hard and can operate In Dense woods with ease Makes it nice.
I think I'm just looking for shorter and handier while keeping the original parts of the gun for sentimental reasons. I have a T3X Stainless Hunter in 260 for when I need a light and agile rifle. Don't have much interest in a Model 7 at this point, I would spring for a Kimber Adirondack or similar to fill that niche. All the input has been great, lots of ideas to ponder.I have a 270 MOD 70 Featherweight. The rifle is neither light nor short, it weighs less than the standard MOD 70 which I like and a 22" barrel really does not make it noticeably shorter but does make it less heavy. All in all the featherweight is a great rifle, but to get shorter and lighter you would need to get a MOD 7 Remington with its 20" barrel or similar.
If that's the case maybe try shortening to 22" and see how that feels. Sometimes a small amount of weight at the end of the barrel can make a difference on how a rifle handles.I think I'm just looking for shorter and handier while keeping the original parts of the gun for sentimental reasons.
Or a 280 AI, great cartridge. 24 inch barrel, with brake, 1 in 9 twist..If the barrel sucks... you're just burning money. Put an aftermarket barrel on it and be happy. Even a remage will treat you better than your current setup.
May even consider a different cartridge like a 6.5 RPM or 25.06. Or go heavier like a 35 Whelen.
I haven't been around long enough to give advice, but if your rifle has sentimental value, and if money isn't a problem, I'd start from the ground up and build a new rifle.I think I'm just looking for shorter and handier while keeping the original parts of the gun for sentimental reasons. I have a T3X Stainless Hunter in 260 for when I need a light and agile rifle. Don't have much interest in a Model 7 at this point, I would spring for a Kimber Adirondack or similar to fill that niche. All the input has been great, lots of ideas to ponder.