Reloading newbie - 26 Nosler

[26Reload]

Finicky........yep.....my handloaded outshot the factory loads by far....then I used the Eric cortina CLR cleaning advice.....they basically all shot very well....but the rifle definitely shoots best clean'er' than after 25 rounds of RL33....

 

[Pokoki]

Any and all the above advice is good. My concern for you is that is not a good cartridge to start on…it's a finicky fire breathing monster!!!…not bad, just high horsepower which can make consistency and accuracy harder to find (in my opinion).

So don't get frustrated if your first loads shoot 3" at 100 yards.

Finicky, 100%. My rifle is a semi custom built on a Howa action with a 26" Bartlein. I'm having pressure issues with every single factory ammo tried. I fire one time, and I can't open the bolt.

I've taken it back to the smith twice. Head spacing is spot on. The only advice he has given me is too back off the speed some (which negates the purpose of the cartridge).

I thought about just building around a new cartridge, just not sure what direction to go yet.

 

[crystalgayleguy]

I right now would buy what you could find

 

[QuietTexan]

My old man has a Dillon RL550C and electronic scale that I'm picking up...I hope

I'd say see if you can get a used Rockchucker or another single stage, the progressive press is going to make dialing in more difficult if you've never done it before. The savings on not getting bushing dies will almost pay for a single stage right there. You're asking about a rifle needing precision reloading, and the press is aimed towards volume. It can be made to work, but might add frustration.

 

[jasonco]

Need a winter hobby, so it's time I learn the world of reloading.

I built this 26 Nosler for mule deer hunting out here in the Western US. More than likely, sub 500 yard shots.

I think I want to go with Redding dies...but that's were I need help.

Do I need the "deluxe die set for bottleneck case", the "full length 2 die set" or the "series B deluxe set"?

Thanks all

The Redding Master Hunter die set, combined with the Sinclair mandrel die & 284 mandrel, is all you should need, starting out, for 26 Nosler, along with sound case prep. This is what I've been using for 28 Nosler. I've other dies, but I sticks with the Master Hunter set. KiSS

 

[Mike D Texas]

The Redding Master Hunter die set, combined with the Sinclair mandrel die & 284 mandrel, is all you should need, starting out, for 26 Nosler, along with sound case prep. This is what I've been using for 28 Nosler. I've other dies, but I sticks with the Master Hunter set. KiSS

I'm assuming you meant 264 mandrel.

 

[LongBomber]

Finicky, 100%. My rifle is a semi custom built on a Howa action with a 26" Bartlein. I'm having pressure issues with every single factory ammo tried. I fire one time, and I can't open the bolt.

I've taken it back to the smith twice. Head spacing is spot on. The only advice he has given me is too back off the speed some (which negates the purpose of the cartridge).

I thought about just building around a new cartridge, just not sure what direction to go yet.

The headspace could be fine, but the neck too tight. Nosler brass in the 26 is pretty thick. Will a bullet drop into a fired case?

 

[Pokoki]

The headspace could be fine, but the neck too tight. Nosler brass in the 26 is pretty thick. Will a bullet drop into a fired case?

It does, barely

 

[Alibiiv]

My old man has a Dillon RL550C and electronic scale that I'm picking up...I hope

Just curious.........are you talking about 'just" starting out reloading with a Dillon press? If you are starting out for the very first time, I would suggest starting out with a "single" stage press instead of something that can pump out 20-30 rounds and hour. That's a great opportunity to make a lot more mistakes, like 20-30 mistakes, which is a lot more an hour than a single stage press will be capable of doing. I would like to suggest an RCBS, Supreme to start out with. I have been reloading for about 60 years, I have a Dillon 650XL and can still get in trouble with it. When a Dillon is running great, it's great, but when it isn't, it's not so great and there's a lot of mistakes laying in that catch bin. At the cost of Nosler brass, $3-4.00 a piece ("if" you can find it), mistakes can run extremely costly. For me setting a Dillon up to run the way you would like it to run is not a simple task either. Might want to rethink this one a bit. There's lots more to reloading then a set of dies and a powder measure, screwing a set of dies and pumping out ammunition at 20-30 rounds per minute. I would suggest starting out by getting three or four good reloading manuals and read them through completely, not just look at the pictures. Then I would get familiar with the cartridge that you want to reload for, study it well, get to know the load data so that you purchase the right components, and.......especially the components that are like finding chicken's teeth right now. Powder is a real bear to find right now, and powder really is not a prize to get either. I am not too familiar with the 26 Nosler, but from what I do know it takes a particular powder designed for overbore cartridges, and that is not easy to find right now either. And....again from reading the forum it can be a very finicky, difficult cartridge to reload for. I don't like Nosler cartridges because they make their brass extremely expensive and then make it hard to even get. I am not being judgemental here, it just sounds like you are jumping into the deep end of the pool and just learning to dog paddle. Before you go any further, I suggest that you get the three to four reloading manuals and then go from there.

 

[26Reload]

It does, barely

If you are calling that "just barely" dropping in...you have a ways to go..as that bullet(I assume is a 129/142 lrab) is a boat tail..and that boat tail is all that is inside the case at the moment.....
I use the Redding 2 piece set with micrometer seater...other than ease of "knowing" you are able click in each measurement...it seems to be much more precise bullet to bullet than the rcbs I started with....

 

[Pokoki]

If you are calling that "just barely" dropping in...you have a ways to go..as that bullet(I assume is a 129/142 lrab) is a boat tail..and that boat tail is all that is inside the case at the moment.....
I use the Redding 2 piece set with micrometer seater...other than ease of "knowing" you are able click in each measurement...it seems to be much more precise bullet to bullet than the rcbs I started with....

Correct, a 129 gr lrab. Yeah, the tail is the only part that will drop in.

Is that a necking issue on my rifle perhaps?

 

[26Reload]

All boattails slip into the neck after the brass is resized...its the rest of the bullet that shouldn't slip in too easily....should take the press to insert the bullet....if it can be inserted by hand it's to little neck tension...but it shouldn't be so tight to 'shave copper' off the bullet being seated.....i believe most guys shoot for brass ID of bullet diameter minus .004 before pushing bullets in....

 

[LongBomber]

I hope that was sized fired brass. If that was just fired and not touched you need to start turning case necks.
That will run your pressures up high very quickly. And make chambering/extracting pretty tough.

 

[Shane Lindsey]

Redding Type S Full lenght 2 die set. Comes with full length bushing sizer die and competition seating die. Load your first rounds for your seating depth test, measure the O.D. of the neck with the bullet in it, subtract 2 thousandths and order that size bushing. That will give you 2 thousandths neck tension.

Watch all of Erik Cortinas videos on why you shouldn't neck size. Always full length size. Save yourself some money. You don't need the third die.

FWIW,
After you have fired the virgin cases, you may want to check if those bushings are still what you need. I have had to order smaller diameter after they were fireformed. Especially if using ADG or Lapua brass to get the same neck tension as I did with the virgin cases. ADG= 300 RUM 308 win and a 6.5x284N=Lapua.