reamers/chambering

I will state many things about being on LRH!

1. I've come to learn more that I care too about reloading and its process
2. This thread isn't for novices (yes, that's me)
3. It's not that I don't know reloading as I've been doing it for 39 years (short compared to other here)
4. I do have quick design, but haven't managed to get the jest of it yet
5. I still won't change they way I reload AR's (many talk about small base dies) as I've never had any issues
6. I will always FL size as it's always worked for me, but todays brass might change that
7. I'm glad I started this thread
8. Brass on hand designed makes it tangible
9. Blueprint (QD) would be better
10. Lots to learn about reamer design with tolerances
11. 260rem came out before the 6.5creed, so the creed is a waste of design
12. Take all of what I said with a grain of salt or totally ignore it
 
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Playing with reamers can be expensive fast. I've played with several dasher reamers and generally come back to the old .104 freebore that initially broke all the records.

If you ask JGS or Manson they will work with you, they don't want to make you a dud and will try to steer you the correct direction if you'll listen and ask. Those guys have a bunch of experience.

Dave Kiff is awesome on that sort of stuff if you can get a hold of him, I won't get into his problems but will say I'll order spec reamers from them but will rarely order a custom. I personally have never had any issues but live by the where there is smoke there is fire mantra.

Now, I typically will change a freebore length or take a SAAMI and expand a neck and listen to their suggestions on best performance for doing so. The dang things just cost too much.
 
I did get that someone will have to approve before proceeding. As far as cartridges go on "clickers", what cartridges have more of those issues? Or is it more of case specs than chamber design? I ask as to see what would/could be better rim with extractor groove? I guess this thread has become more of a learning curve for me, than just proceeding forward. Extractor space is needed for expansion of case and for it to hold the extractor in place as not to pop off?
 
I'm trying to find the better already designed case/cartridge/chamber and just tweak from there. Kind of a lego cartridge.
 
I did get that someone will have to approve before proceeding. As far as cartridges go on "clickers", what cartridges have more of those issues? Or is it more of case specs than chamber design? I ask as to see what would/could be better rim with extractor groove? I guess this thread has become more of a learning curve for me, than just proceeding forward. Extractor space is needed for expansion of case and for it to hold the extractor in place as not to pop off?
The dies should be able to match any chamber so you don't have clickers. Finish reamer and chamber first, and make the dies to fit!!
 
Lately the PRC's
Hopefully not as I have an AR chambered in 6.5prc. Awaiting go n no-go's to verify before firing. I've tested with dummy rounds and so far chambers, feeds and ejects 100%. That's of course without popping any off.
 
Well its the 3rd or 4th firing when it shows up, people are running the AW2 in if it wasn't chambered with one.
If you run mild loads you may never see it
 
Clickers don't show up until 2-4 firings. It's the case webbing expanding and not getting sized back down. I've seen polishing of the rear of the chamber help…body dies can help too.

It's easier to spec a chamber to dies than to make a die, my opinion…the seating dies are relatively easy, the sizing dies need hardened and that's a PIA. Most guys today nitrite them and it works but most have minimums so finding someone that'll do it can be a pain. Plus, it's more cost and machine time.
 
Clickers don't show up until 2-4 firings. It's the case webbing expanding and not getting sized back down. I've seen polishing of the rear of the chamber help…body dies can help too.

It's easier to spec a chamber to dies than to make a die, my opinion…the seating dies are relatively easy, the sizing dies need hardened and that's a PIA. Most guys today nitrite them and it works but most have minimums so finding someone that'll do it can be a pain. Plus, it's more cost and machine time.
My comment was based on wildcatting with the chamber first, but you are correct with salami chambers and shelf dies.
 
body dies can help too.
You can only take brass back so far at the web, I know some people tried the " body" thing with PRC dies and it still didn't fix it.
Opening up the back like Alex did fixed the problem. Its the same issue with a 20 VT if you dont open up the base if you use Lapua brass.
 
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